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356 Repro from Vintage Speedster

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Old 02-25-2007, 05:04 PM
  #31  
Brucechas
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Hi,
I need your help...can you tell me if the "Vintage Speedster" replica is worth while in the aspect of "Jack Test"? In other words are they structurally sound since they use a VW pan?

Thanking you in advance,

Bruce
Old 02-26-2007, 02:13 PM
  #32  
ked
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hmmm, more jacking issues...
Bruce, have you tried http://www.speedsterowners.com/ ? since this is a Porsche-centric forum, there may not be as much expertise here as in the kit community.

however, imo, the issue of using VW pans as a kit platform is not so much of its rigidity in general, but of the physical condition of the specific donor pan selected and the quality of the assembly craftsmanship. one might hope that reputable, long-standing kit producers have engineered their products properly. a related issue is the handling and road feel that results from the choice of a unibody design (ala 356) vs the body-on-frame approach that is common to most (but not all) kits. good luck!
Old 03-01-2007, 09:08 AM
  #33  
larisa
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You can find out more here:http://www.vintagespeedsters.com/.
Also,as Ked mention above,www.speedsterowners.com is THE site to go for replica speedster.
My pan based speedster,uses steel subframe and the whole car is very solid.
I have done the "jack" test many times on mine,and the doors open and close with no problem.
Old 03-01-2007, 11:23 AM
  #34  
ventoGT
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Originally Posted by Baggerdude
I've wondered ... and posted ... about replica 356 P-cars before as well. I read this forum quite often, but don't post much cuz I don't have a 356. Real or replica.

...we are approaching the limits of a 'driver'. Plus, the car is original with all the drum brakes, 6 volt electrics, dim bulbs, low horse powered cars with new rubber seals and such. That's kewl if one does not wanna drive it to work and have it not work when one leaves work. Bummer.
I paid very little [I got a little lucky, granted] for my very much driver 356 [a 1962 T-6 B coupe with a 1958 Normal engine, incorrect interior, and decent repainted outside to incorrect Champagne yellow/original color was Bali Blue with Red Vinyl interior] spent about $2,500 on new exhaust, oil change, carb tune up, and various little things, and have a dead reliable car.

My car still has 6V electrics [yes, the headlights are somewhat dim but I have driving lights that are just as bright and I can see fine at night], and has never left me stranded in 5,000 miles and about 2 years of service [knock on wood]. I would not hesitate to drive my car to work, as I have many times before. I have a 75HP motor and I can beat a Corolla off the line if I push it and keep up with Highway traffic at 70-80MPH all day. She'll go 90, but doesn't like to for long periods

I just wanted to provide an opinion here that you can find a decent, driver 356 [coupe not open top of course] at good money if you are patient and find the right car. Furthermore, you have to have access to a mechanic [or your own knowledge] that knows how to set the cars up. My car looks $hit and is worth nothing compared to some of the cars at my local shop, but my mechanic tells me my car runs nicer and better than 80% of the cars that he sees.

Many of the 'curmudgeons' driving these cars I believe would rather pass them on to a fellow enthusiast as they get older rather than make a killing on eBay and sell to some tweener, at least with the normal level cars.

My $.02
Old 05-17-2007, 10:02 AM
  #35  
jayster
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There are a variety of offerings. California spyders ( me thinks ) make a relly nice 550 knock off, with lots of aluminum panels. Beck Spyders ( when made in Cali. did a nice job), and others.
There is a distinct upside to these cars......price a set of say, 356 main bearings, or a good "C" crank, and these kitcars dont look so bad.



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