meteor10

Hi all, new to this part of the forum. I have just become aware of a local 1961 356 B "super" coupe in Aetna blue with light grey leatherette interior for sale in my town. I have only seen pictures but am scheduled to go see it tomorrow. What I do know is that the car has been repainted in it's original color and seat covers have been redone, but the rest of the interior is purportedly original. I have a picture of the COA, VIN is 115517, engine number 88953, transmission number 43966. Delivery date 3/15/1961. Car looks very good in pictures. The current owner sold the car and then bought it back. I don't know the time table of all of this. The local mechanic who gave me the lead and is taking me to go look tomorrow, knows the owner and worked on the car 17 years ago. We are going to put it up on a lift at the owners house and go over it.
What I understand is the owner is selling off his cars and property and is changing his living situation because of health reasons. He is looking for a quick, no BS sale so since it is local and appears to be a nice car I thought I should follow up on it. It would certainly be a different experience than my 981 Boxster S.
My question is what should be on my check list when going over it, and what is the approximate current market value for this car.
Thanks for any help

points

Look at bottom of doors while open. They rust there first. Ive had three and regret selling them all the time.

Buy it. You will absolutely love driving it. No Porsche drives like a 356.

Market is close to six figures if not slightly over. Buy it.

Need pics.

meteor10

Thanks "points" I will definitely look there.

meteor10

Another question- If Engine or Transmission are not original, how much does that decrease value?
What does the "Super" refer to as in 356 B "Super Coupe"

points

If you are interested in resale later it does impact price to a collector. One of mine had a replacement engine and it did not matter at all when I sold it. Original color is the most important in my opinion.

wareaglescott

From Excellence magazine 2017-2018 Porsche buyers guide
1960-61 356B Coupe
Acceptable - 60K
Good - 75K
Excellent - 100k
Excellent is described as "very clean but not concours quality, could be well maintained, older restoration or very good original condition. Matching numbers.

This buyers guide has a lot of good info and a multi page "used vehicle checklist". If you have the time a quick trip to your local large chain bookstore today and you should be able to find it.

meteor10

Thanks guys, I did see that Excellence buyers guide valuation, was looking for more opinions here as well. I did not see the used vehicle checklist, I will go back and look for that.

K964

Go join the 356 Registry. Tons of useful information over there. And a great group of guys who are always willing to help. I picked up a 59 A Coupe over the Summer and can’t stop driving it. Back to basics driving. Driving for the sake of driving. Best car purchase I’ve ever made. Can’t believe it took me this many years to buy my first 356. Good luck!!!

wareaglescott

Report back with how it goes tomorrow please.

meteor10

Will do!

sithot

It is best to purchase a car with a good body. Condition of an engine/transmission is secondary imho. Either are easier to repair and cheaper too. All 356's are at least 52 years old and unless they are 100% original have seen bodywork.
They will rust at the door bottoms and trailing edge of the closing panel at the doors.
Doors were repaired with bondo as re-skinning requires more skill than most body shops employ. These were once "used cars" with much less value. How was a 10-15 year old used car repaired for a quick sale in the 70's?

Pans should be examined closely. Battery area, pedal cluster areas (behind front wheels), rear closing panels, rockers, longitudinal(s).

Here is an example of a previous poor repair. It was found during a repair to the left front fender. The shop doing the current work used a DA with 36 grit disc to determine the extent of the "bad work". Trailing edge of the door near the bottom is terrible.

If you can get an Elcometer or other paint meter it would make your job easier.

Good luck.

meteor10

I know the car has been repainted in it's original color, but I was thinking of bringing a magnet in a sock to check for bondo. Is that an okay strategy?

sithot

I guess that depends on the strength of the magnet.

zoomie50

15-20% discount if not numbers matching. Unless a proven show winner over restored garage queen car IS NOT #1 BY HAGERTY SCALE #2 Hagerty is 84,700 #3 60500 #4 38200 The T5 B coupes are probably the least sought after 356 in coupe form but are very nice driver cars. Prices have softened the last few years so I think Hagerty values may be a little high. No car perfectly fits Hagerty's scale. Each car will have positives and negatives. We joke that all 356s started rusting at the factory but there is some grain of truth in the statement. It is indeed cheaper to rebuild both the engine and transmission than to redo a body correctly. Good luck! https://www.hagerty.com/apps/valuati...T5)-1600_Super Having a mechanic along to check mechanicals is great. Better if you can also bring along a bodyman who knows 356s. And if the factory lead is still on the car magnet will probably not stick to leaded areas. A friend is restoring the C his wife bought when it was 2 years old. In some areas there was close to 1/2 inch thick lead under the original paint when he stripped the car. 3 basic engines in 61 Normal with 60 DIN HP Super with 75DIN HP and S90 with 90 DIN HP.

zoomie50

Inspection checklist article from 356 Registry: https://porsche356registry.org/article/245