yeah it's pretty big on the water pump side but it's smaller on the block. I'll leave it and hoefully it's okay.

one thing I did mess up is I installed the wrong thermostat. the Laso 951 pump uses the old thermostat and seal ring and I got the new thermostat and seal ring which was correct for the 951 rebuilt pump I got from the porsche dealer and returned. I did notice there wasn't enough space for a spacer so I just put the snap ring in and forced it into the grove. I was told however that the thermostats themselves have different spring length and compression?

I'll probably have to get a shop to switch it out when I'm done with everything else (it's in there super tight).

 

The thermostat either uses a thin or thick seal ring, and MAY need a thick o-ring to sit under it. When you put the thermostat in, you should barely see the groove for the snap ring. If you can see the groove with a lot of extra space, you need the thicker seal ring. If you see the groove with a WHOLE lot of extra space, you need the large o-ring under it.

No sealant is required on the waterpump gasket. I've done the job on 3 cars before (2 944s and 1 968) and never used sealant, and I never had leaks. But still, if you do want to use sealant, you should only use a tiny bit. Nonetheless I doubt you messed anything up, though it might be hard to take off and clean off all the sealant next time you need to change the waterpump.

There are two different kinds of gaskets, one is like thick paper and it's gray, the other is thin, slightly rubbery and green on one side, gray on the other side. Which did you get?

If you would have tightened the bolts all the way to 7 lbft of torque right away, THEN all the sealant would have squished out to clog stuff. BUT since you waited for it to dry a little, it's likely that most of the sealant remained at the mating surfaces, unable to be squished out since it was dry.

 

well I did tighten it but not to 7 ft-lbs right away, I had sealant coming out the sides right away.

my gakset was green on one side and I think grey on the other, one side was more like paper and the other kind of plasticy.

my thermostat had a pretty thick seal on it and when I put it in there was barely any space for the O ring to go on so when the o ring when it the thermostat's seal was squished in some spots.

I thought it's not just the seal that is different but the 2 different theremostats are different themselves.

 

Youll be fine. Thats how I did mine and its been fine for 10 or 15k miles now.

Ultra Grey is also great for the oil pan gasket!

 

My summary of key points.
Prior to the coolant reaching operating temperature, the thermostat is in its normally closed position, thereby blocking the return coolant flow from the radiator. However, it allows bypass flow (thru that little coolant hole) from the cylinder head back to the water pump suction.

Not true. However, there is such a "a weep hole" at about the 8-o'clock position on the pump that, if leaking, may indicate the seal and/or bearing are failing

This “casting void” is a known issue with the Laso pump. My experience – the connection leaked with my reused hose. The vendor provided me a new hose free of charge, and the connection did not leak. Therefore, to be on the safe side, use a new hose when installing an updated Laso pump.

Many mechanics and DIY do not use a sealer on the water pump. If you use a sealer, I recommend Permatex Hylomar HPF Gasket Dressing and Flange Sealant. It is a non-hardening gel sealant. Great stuff, and very easy to remove the next go around.

I believe the Laso pump has a 4.5 mm offset measured from the thermostat mounting surface to the snap ring groove. If so, the old-style thermostat and seal ring would be the correct parts. But, just watch the engine temperature when you start the engine, and you will be able to tell if the thermostat is operating properly. You may be OK. Good Luck!

 

so if that little hole is clogged would the car overheat? you said that it is only for when the thermostat is closed. I'll cross my fingers and hope it isn't clogged or at least fully cloged.

the thermostat shouldn't be too hard to replace if it doesn't work. I guess the car would over heat pretty quickly? I could check it by seeing if hot coolant goes trough the hose when at operating temp.
I'm guesing it will work but maybe it'll take longer to open because of the thicker seal and maybe being of a different length.

I'll probably get it replaced when I take the car in to a shop to have the belts tensioned properly after I put everything back together.

 

Man, you do worry a lot.
IMO never use a sealant on the water pump gasket, it is simply unnecessary. I've done 6 or 7 water pumps and never used a sealant on the gasket. None of them leak. 2 were the new Laso pumps.
It seems like others have used the same sealant as you and have not had any leaks. There is nothing wrong with your procedure, and you should be fine.

As for the hole, I am not certain as to it's purpose. If it was for coolant recirculation, then the side on the water pump should go somewhere, no?.... Perhaps somebody could check it out.

 

Unless you really glopped it on I wouldn't worry too much. Even if the bypass passage had a sealant plug in it; I doubt if it can take 16 psi plus heat without blowing out the plug. Sealant isn't exactly carbon fiber and I think the piece of sealant will be sent downstream. If it's going to overheat it should do it while warming up when the thermostat is closed. Personally I would take it for a local drive and see if it's all cool.

Good Luck