After 4 long months, I am DONE.
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From: YQU
Garrett,
Multiple posts and threads here (many from knowledgeable people like Adrian) recommend upgrading to the larger m/c when switching to Big Reds.
While the C4 m/c is larger than the C2 one, it is not quite as large as the turbo version (I don't have the exact specs. handy at the moment).
Most posts would suggest that it helps to improve the "feel" of the brake pedal and with some ability to modulate brake force - don't ask me how or why, I just know what I read. I can already tell the brake pedal is softer than before so I would think that the swap to Big Reds in rear too would only make that worse......but yeah, it is not cheap.
Marc
Multiple posts and threads here (many from knowledgeable people like Adrian) recommend upgrading to the larger m/c when switching to Big Reds.
While the C4 m/c is larger than the C2 one, it is not quite as large as the turbo version (I don't have the exact specs. handy at the moment).
Most posts would suggest that it helps to improve the "feel" of the brake pedal and with some ability to modulate brake force - don't ask me how or why, I just know what I read. I can already tell the brake pedal is softer than before so I would think that the swap to Big Reds in rear too would only make that worse......but yeah, it is not cheap.
Marc
Pro
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Rhode Island, USA
Marc and others,
From all the reading I have done, the secondary bypass will give you more torque at lower rpm, while the primary bypass will give you more HP at higher RPM. So depending on how one intends to drive his/her car, I think this should sway your decision in what type of bypass pipe to use. In city driving, around town, not on a track and not consistently running at high RPMs, I would think having more torque would be more advantageous. However, if I was running on a track, keeping the car at high RPMs, then I would want more horsepower.
There is always a tradeoff on everything we do.........
From all the reading I have done, the secondary bypass will give you more torque at lower rpm, while the primary bypass will give you more HP at higher RPM. So depending on how one intends to drive his/her car, I think this should sway your decision in what type of bypass pipe to use. In city driving, around town, not on a track and not consistently running at high RPMs, I would think having more torque would be more advantageous. However, if I was running on a track, keeping the car at high RPMs, then I would want more horsepower.
There is always a tradeoff on everything we do.........
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Originally Posted by Marc Shaw
Garrett,
Multiple posts and threads here (many from knowledgeable people like Adrian) recommend upgrading to the larger m/c when switching to Big Reds.
While the C4 m/c is larger than the C2 one, it is not quite as large as the turbo version (I don't have the exact specs. handy at the moment).
Most posts would suggest that it helps to improve the "feel" of the brake pedal and with some ability to modulate brake force - don't ask me how or why, I just know what I read. I can already tell the brake pedal is softer than before so I would think that the swap to Big Reds in rear too would only make that worse......but yeah, it is not cheap.
Marc
Multiple posts and threads here (many from knowledgeable people like Adrian) recommend upgrading to the larger m/c when switching to Big Reds.
While the C4 m/c is larger than the C2 one, it is not quite as large as the turbo version (I don't have the exact specs. handy at the moment).
Most posts would suggest that it helps to improve the "feel" of the brake pedal and with some ability to modulate brake force - don't ask me how or why, I just know what I read. I can already tell the brake pedal is softer than before so I would think that the swap to Big Reds in rear too would only make that worse......but yeah, it is not cheap.
Marc
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,779
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From: Halifax, Nova Scotia , Canada
Mrc,
The softer brake pedal feel is probably just that the pads havent settled yet .
Give it a DE and you will change your mind !!
When you say Big Reds on the rear , which ones ? RS, Turbo , WB 993 . They all have different piston diameters, pressure limit valve set ups !
With the greater braking force available on the front you have to be careful not to overbrake the rear unless doing doughnuts is your thing !!
A bit of input from guys tracking your set up would be useful background to base a decision on.
As an example I helped a friend put 380s with 6 pot Brembos on the front of his 993 track car !!!! He went for RS reds on the rear . We had to fit an adjustable brake balance valve to find out what would stop the rears locking under hard braking due to wieght transfer.I suspected that the standard calipers would have been OK !
In spite of all the stuff about tires are the limiting factor ,which is technically correct , those brakes were fantastic .
So a Cup pipe ! Good man . If you ever have a moment ! look at the posts showing a disected primary silencer. How that got on a 911 I will never know !
I think Porsche lifted the design from Yugo !!!!!
All the best
Geoff
The softer brake pedal feel is probably just that the pads havent settled yet .
Give it a DE and you will change your mind !!
When you say Big Reds on the rear , which ones ? RS, Turbo , WB 993 . They all have different piston diameters, pressure limit valve set ups !
With the greater braking force available on the front you have to be careful not to overbrake the rear unless doing doughnuts is your thing !!
A bit of input from guys tracking your set up would be useful background to base a decision on.
As an example I helped a friend put 380s with 6 pot Brembos on the front of his 993 track car !!!! He went for RS reds on the rear . We had to fit an adjustable brake balance valve to find out what would stop the rears locking under hard braking due to wieght transfer.I suspected that the standard calipers would have been OK !
In spite of all the stuff about tires are the limiting factor ,which is technically correct , those brakes were fantastic .
So a Cup pipe ! Good man . If you ever have a moment ! look at the posts showing a disected primary silencer. How that got on a 911 I will never know !
I think Porsche lifted the design from Yugo !!!!!
All the best
Geoff
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From: YQU
Wheels
I had a few questions about the wheels (here and in pm's) so here is the scoop:
The wheels are OEM 18" MY 02 5-spoke wheels (obviously) off a 996.
They are 8" ET 50 and 10" ET 65. They weigh 20 and 23 lbs on my bathroom scales. Obviously they are one piece cast. The wheels are used but freshly and professionally refinished so appear new and cost US$1100 without tires. eBay.
On the rear, I put 21mm spacers (that bolt on and provide wheel studs) from FVD. There is about 1.5 cm clearance to the oil lines and suspension in the rear. The oil lines were already factory flattened (oval) so I did not have to do this. I already had about -2.5 degrees negative camber in the rear so did not have to alter it.
On the front, I did not use a spacer but had to put in as much negative camber (about -3 degrees) so the tires would clear the front wing where the strut bolt is.
I put Michelin Pilot Sport 225/40ZR-18 and 265/35ZR-18 tires on. Wider would fit the rims but, with the reading I did here, I don't think wider tires would fit under the fenders. Tires are from TireRack.
I did not roll the fenders.
Marc
The wheels are OEM 18" MY 02 5-spoke wheels (obviously) off a 996.
They are 8" ET 50 and 10" ET 65. They weigh 20 and 23 lbs on my bathroom scales. Obviously they are one piece cast. The wheels are used but freshly and professionally refinished so appear new and cost US$1100 without tires. eBay.
On the rear, I put 21mm spacers (that bolt on and provide wheel studs) from FVD. There is about 1.5 cm clearance to the oil lines and suspension in the rear. The oil lines were already factory flattened (oval) so I did not have to do this. I already had about -2.5 degrees negative camber in the rear so did not have to alter it.
On the front, I did not use a spacer but had to put in as much negative camber (about -3 degrees) so the tires would clear the front wing where the strut bolt is.
I put Michelin Pilot Sport 225/40ZR-18 and 265/35ZR-18 tires on. Wider would fit the rims but, with the reading I did here, I don't think wider tires would fit under the fenders. Tires are from TireRack.
I did not roll the fenders.
Marc
Racer
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 284
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From: USA
Marc,
Great job!
You picked such a rainy day to take a picture outdoors! Most people here would not even take their black beast outside on a day like that let alone take pictures of it!
Also, did you paint the calipers or were they always red?
Great job!
You picked such a rainy day to take a picture outdoors! Most people here would not even take their black beast outside on a day like that let alone take pictures of it!
Also, did you paint the calipers or were they always red?
Pro
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 512
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From: Maryland, USA
Originally Posted by Marc Shaw
I had a few questions about the wheels (here and in pm's) so here is the scoop:
The wheels are OEM 18" MY 02 5-spoke wheels (obviously) off a 996.
They are 8" ET 50 and 10" ET 65. They weigh 20 and 23 lbs on my bathroom scales. Obviously they are one piece cast. The wheels are used but freshly and professionally refinished so appear new and cost US$1100 without tires. eBay.
On the rear, I put 21mm spacers (that bolt on and provide wheel studs) from FVD. There is about 1.5 cm clearance to the oil lines and suspension in the rear. The oil lines were already factory flattened (oval) so I did not have to do this. I already had about -2.5 degrees negative camber in the rear so did not have to alter it.
On the front, I did not use a spacer but had to put in as much negative camber (about -3 degrees) so the tires would clear the front wing where the strut bolt is.
I put Michelin Pilot Sport 225/40ZR-18 and 265/35ZR-18 tires on. Wider would fit the rims but, with the reading I did here, I don't think wider tires would fit under the fenders. Tires are from TireRack.
I did not roll the fenders.
Marc
The wheels are OEM 18" MY 02 5-spoke wheels (obviously) off a 996.
They are 8" ET 50 and 10" ET 65. They weigh 20 and 23 lbs on my bathroom scales. Obviously they are one piece cast. The wheels are used but freshly and professionally refinished so appear new and cost US$1100 without tires. eBay.
On the rear, I put 21mm spacers (that bolt on and provide wheel studs) from FVD. There is about 1.5 cm clearance to the oil lines and suspension in the rear. The oil lines were already factory flattened (oval) so I did not have to do this. I already had about -2.5 degrees negative camber in the rear so did not have to alter it.
On the front, I did not use a spacer but had to put in as much negative camber (about -3 degrees) so the tires would clear the front wing where the strut bolt is.
I put Michelin Pilot Sport 225/40ZR-18 and 265/35ZR-18 tires on. Wider would fit the rims but, with the reading I did here, I don't think wider tires would fit under the fenders. Tires are from TireRack.
I did not roll the fenders.
Marc
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From: YQU
Nope, no problems - I am actually having a CB and alignment done today and will have the front camber reduced to -2.0 degrees and there is plenty of clearance (so -2.5 to -3 is not needed).
Do it - the rims look very sweet on the car and just transform it! The ride is a little harsher with the shorter side walls and I note a little more road noise (from the wider rubber), but otherwise it is all good.
Marc
Do it - the rims look very sweet on the car and just transform it! The ride is a little harsher with the shorter side walls and I note a little more road noise (from the wider rubber), but otherwise it is all good.
Marc
Last edited by Marc Shaw; Aug 28, 2006 at 03:34 PM.