I replaced the front crank seal last year but overlooked the importance of the sealing surface on the oil pump drive sleeve. At 166k miles mine had a perfect little "v", deep enough to catch a fingernail on. Notice the tooth wear on the right of the sleeve.
The key to telling when this seal is lost is when oil seeps out of the bottom of the belt covers. Now I can call in a front end loader to clean up all the cat litter in the driveway!!
For my 87' I used: 999 113 331 40 - seal and 944 107 161 02 - drive sleeve.

 

Yeah, I think I've got the same issue on my '88. I replaced the front seals a few months ago but didn't change the drive sleeve for the oil pump. I did notice a very slight groove in the drive sleeve, but figured it would be ok. There is a very slight leak still at the crankshaft (much less than before)... and I'm pretty sure this groove is my problem.

Thanks for reminding me.

-David

 

This is almost certainly the culprit behind my oozing n/a right now. I'll put it on the ramps sometime this week or maybe this weekend to verify the source, but needless to say I was less than thrilled to notice seepage when I got the front end back together after doing the front seals, H2O pump & belts & rollers. Since it's about time for the initial retension anyway, I'll do it "while I'm in there" and I'll bet I'll find the same thing. If so, good news - no oil pan gasket replacement (whew!) if not, at least I know it's good then and unfortunately we WILL have to do the pan at some point. Good catch though.

 

David,
Where in SD? Have you done any of the SD Fun Runs?

 

I'm in the La Mesa area. I almost did the fun run The Stig set up a few months back, but I think I was stuck under the car at the time.

-David

 

Kevin, that's awesome! I'm goin down to SD today...we'll go grab a brew with Andy

 

Dave, I look forward to meeting up with you around the campus.

Geoff, Looks like I picked a good day to play hooky from work!! I'm heading out to cut the yard now so just call when you get in.

 

All right then. You've twisted my arm. I'll go. Geoff, if you want, I'll leave work at like 1730 or 1800 (depends on how ****ty the traffic looks) and we can go from there. I guess it'll have to just be a long-*** day tomorrow. Great. Another 18-hour day. Oh well, at least I'll have had some fun the night before. . .

 

did you have to remove the oil pump or oil pan to replace the drive gear?

 

No, but you do need to remove the crank pulleys for the cam belt and accessory belts (can come off together when you pull the crank pulley bolt). You need the flywheel lock to do this job.

-David (thesis deadline is April 1st)

 

Yes, one of these days I'll have to get out and meet some of you guys!

-David

 

David,
One of these days is tonight! Porschephile 924 (Geoff) is on spring break touring socal and just arrived in SD and will be meeting up with the Stig (Andy), Randy, and myself for some dinner. PM me if you need more info.

 

Do you happen to have a quick write up on this procedure? I have to do it in the next few weeks and it is always nice to know what you are up against before you start.

 

The biggies are Clark's ENG-13, LUBE-07, LUBE-08, and ENG-10. It's a good time to make a laundry list because you'll have the front pretty well striped down.

 

i just did my belts and front seals this weekend and had a new oil pump drive gear on hand but my buddies did not want to go after the pump drive gear because it required pulling the oil pump.

clarks garage says you have to loosen and drop down the oil pan and pull the pump housing to remove the drive gear and replace the main oil pump seal. if so, then it is a little more involed than just pulling the crank gears/pulleys.