trouble shooting here ... engine back in and usual clicks and noises when I turn the key to pos 1...
I hear the resonance flap click nice and clear etc..
and I get a nice fat blue spark
... but when I turn the key further further to crank it, it turns over but no more spark.

Removed the principle dizzy caps and no water inside, cleaned points recently etc..
didn't check the hall sensor level, just the rotor and cover below it removed
Checked the diz is properly inserted into crankcase
Did the spark test with 2 wires (rt bank) and 3 spark plugs (just removed ones)
All plugs and electric contacts cleaned with contact cleaner during engine drop

Car has been standing for 2 weeks - battery was weak but charged now.

Any ideas?

thanks,
Matt

 

i guess I'm going to goto the DME pinout diagram and test the sensors/wires on the back left to make sure nothing got damaged - crank pos, hall, knock etc - and check the two big loom plugs in the box on the left too.

then will check the crank pos sensor is correctly positioned next to the flywheel

.. any other ideas?

 

The car will fire up without the hall sensor plugged in so you can cross that one off your list.

Your symptoms of crank but no spark sound the same as a bad DME relay - might worth trying a different one.

 

I believe that if the flywheel speed(rank position) sensor, was faulty, or not connected properly, you would not get any spark, or fuel.

 

Thanks Steve, Steven - I just get one single spark on key turn to pos 1 - will check the flywheel sensor - might have got moved, twisted away during eng drop - needs to be quick close I think to work.

Ps - where shd I check for fuel - on the left side ie after the Fuel pressure regulator
Or on the right ie after the fuel filter (there is fuel there)

 

Did you try bleeding the fuel rail? Should be a small brass cap on the rail somehwere which you remove access the bleed nipple jobby. Ive had to do this a few times to get dry motors to start.

Also you can bypass a few bits by jumping the DME relay which might also be worth a shot - at least it can rule stuff out like flywheel sensor etc.

Good luck!

 

Gotta love the UK contingent - awake at the right time!
thanks Jeeves ... Will check that as I was wondering about air in the fuel rail.
Do I open that nipple and then crank it with coils disconnected to get some fuel going
Or shd the fuel pump just do it with key at on position 1?

 

The pump will have pressurized the lines so just pull the cap and press the ball using a clean rag to let air out until you get sprayed with fuel

 

Lovely! then I'll be a real mechanic ... Think I'll light a cigar

 

Make sure your eyeballs are right close too!

 

well if I did I'd be less of a moron than it turns out I am ...
the crank pos sensor plug wasn't properly seated next to the other 2 plugs on the connection support
at the back left of the engine bay - and I checked it twice yesterday - numbskull ..

apologies for the time waste - I learnt that checking isn't checking unless you do it carefully!

Car fired up ... splurting and rumbling with steam coming off the engine from all the degreaser etc...
Will run it warm for 30 min later today after doing the ISV clean ..
and hopefully find it settles down and smooths out.

 

Good work dude!