2011 cayenne s aluminum front coolant line popped out
#1
2011 cayenne s aluminum front coolant line popped out
Hi I have a 2011 cayenne s with 60k on it. It's a well maintained car. So yesterday while sitting in traffic 2-4mph for about 2 1/2 hrs on an incline in 32 degree temps. Our coolant line. Lee out just as we were able to get going. The line is the one that is in front not the rear. Looks like the epoxy failed. So my new question after doing a ton of reading is... does my year have the aluminum line in the v under the intake or the plastic? Also does it have the upgraded threaded hosebarb off the diffuser in the back of the engine? I just want to get an idea of what to have the mech do when I take it in. If mine has the upgraded parts then I'll have them tap and pin the front lines and call it a freak deal. Any input would be great. Also I just had the HPFP replaced and that was $$$. So would rather not have to go through all of that for them to do a mod if it's already threaded. Thank you.
#2
Banned
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Spring Lake, NJ, US of A
Posts: 10,085
Received 1,160 Likes
on
767 Posts
Hi I have a 2011 cayenne s with 60k on it. It's a well maintained car. So yesterday while sitting in traffic 2-4mph for about 2 1/2 hrs on an incline in 32 degree temps. Our coolant line. Lee out just as we were able to get going. The line is the one that is in front not the rear. Looks like the epoxy failed.
Might it be possible to take a photo of the coolant fitting that popped out?
And chances are - your rear coolant fitting is not threaded. Mine isn't. Too bad while the HPFP was out that someone didn't think to use some JB-Weld to make sure it never comes out..
#4
****. I think I can get the mech to do the job weld. So no need to do a lot of crazy fab or replacement stuff on that? What about the aluminum line in the valley under the air intake
Trending Topics
#9
It should be. It will go to the mech this morning. Just need to find out if it needs the one in the valley under the intake replaced or if we have the metal one. Also if we need to pin the rear or do some job weld.
#10
Banned
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Spring Lake, NJ, US of A
Posts: 10,085
Received 1,160 Likes
on
767 Posts
Indeed you did. Thanks.
I've asked about the one in the rear when talking to a service adviser. His claim is - (and I don't vouch for it's truthfulness - it may be an alterative fact..) that it typically happens on vehicles that overheat.
That to me implies the coolant cap may be at fault - not releasing excess pressure in the system when the system really heats up. So - it might be worth replacing the cap on the reservoir. On my 955 the cap was way cheap and widely available since it was shared with VW. Haven't priced the 958 cap yet, but guess I should.
The situation you were in could have caused the system to heat up, especially if the radiator cooling fan were slow (or failed) to come on. It isn't clear to me if the coolant gauge on the dash is for real - or like BMW has done for over a decade - an analog idiot light (that always reads 200F unless something is REALLY wrong.) I guess I could check with my iCarScan tool that gives real numbers from the sensors on the engine. I should also check it against the available coolant temperature that can be displayed in the multi-instrument-display in the dash.
Be great if you can get some shots of it when the mechanic has the Y intake off to replace it - so we can see where it goes to..
Meanwhile - thanks for the picture!
I've asked about the one in the rear when talking to a service adviser. His claim is - (and I don't vouch for it's truthfulness - it may be an alterative fact..) that it typically happens on vehicles that overheat.
That to me implies the coolant cap may be at fault - not releasing excess pressure in the system when the system really heats up. So - it might be worth replacing the cap on the reservoir. On my 955 the cap was way cheap and widely available since it was shared with VW. Haven't priced the 958 cap yet, but guess I should.
The situation you were in could have caused the system to heat up, especially if the radiator cooling fan were slow (or failed) to come on. It isn't clear to me if the coolant gauge on the dash is for real - or like BMW has done for over a decade - an analog idiot light (that always reads 200F unless something is REALLY wrong.) I guess I could check with my iCarScan tool that gives real numbers from the sensors on the engine. I should also check it against the available coolant temperature that can be displayed in the multi-instrument-display in the dash.
Be great if you can get some shots of it when the mechanic has the Y intake off to replace it - so we can see where it goes to..
Meanwhile - thanks for the picture!
#11
It literally goes right into a housing order the y. If you have one you can pop the hood and see. I'm going to have the mech peen everything. I will look into a new vent cap.