If you were buying '04 Cayenne
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
If you were buying '04 Cayenne
Hello Folks.....been on the 911 forum for years and my first post here on this forum.
I sold my 86 widebody cab and looking for an older Cayenne....'04-'06 as they seem to represent good 'entry value'. I know 'entry' costs and 'maintenance' costs are two entirely separate animals and there are reasons for the apparently low 'entry price' of these vehicles, consequently I am making this post.
I have researched the threads and I am aware of some of the following (short list) biggies
1. Coolant tubes
2. Coils
3. Cardan shaft
The question is if you were making such a purchase (say 100k mile cayenne) what items would you add to this list ? Are there tests (PPI) that can be done for the items I mentioned above.....or does one wait for symptoms or just be pre-emptive about them ?
Thanks in advance
I sold my 86 widebody cab and looking for an older Cayenne....'04-'06 as they seem to represent good 'entry value'. I know 'entry' costs and 'maintenance' costs are two entirely separate animals and there are reasons for the apparently low 'entry price' of these vehicles, consequently I am making this post.
I have researched the threads and I am aware of some of the following (short list) biggies
1. Coolant tubes
2. Coils
3. Cardan shaft
The question is if you were making such a purchase (say 100k mile cayenne) what items would you add to this list ? Are there tests (PPI) that can be done for the items I mentioned above.....or does one wait for symptoms or just be pre-emptive about them ?
Thanks in advance
Last edited by Shannon123; 10-30-2014 at 02:59 PM.
#2
The P dealers offer two types of PPIs. One for roughly $120 that is more or less a visual inspection and another more-thorough $300 inspection where they go into each module with piwis and check for codes. When I got my '04 I chose the lesser PPI at the service advisor's suggestion. It was a mistake, as I've been fixing 'minor' issues from a list as long as my arm.
Kessy, TCU/PSM, Park assist, PCM, Airbag, climate control, brake booster, TPMS, etc. None of which are terribly expensive by themselves, but when you add them up it's quite annoying and I'd have negotiated a better price.
Kessy, TCU/PSM, Park assist, PCM, Airbag, climate control, brake booster, TPMS, etc. None of which are terribly expensive by themselves, but when you add them up it's quite annoying and I'd have negotiated a better price.
#3
Formerly 'slevy951'
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
I think, my opinion, overall Cayenne's are mostly reliable. Like RubberDuck said, it's the little things. We've had our '04 since March. After fixing the little stuff that was wrong when I bought it, some known, some not, it's been a great car. I think you just have to look over them well. I looked for 6 months before finding mine. You can tell pretty easlily the junky ones.
#4
I bought a 04 cayenne S with 135 k miles a month ago. It's high mileage vehicle for sure, but after driving around for little over a month; I am very glad to share the news that she has been good to me so far. Initially I was paranoid and was trying to find everything that could or would go wrong. After spending little over 500$ in diagnostics at 3 or 4 different mechanics, and after spending around 800$ In regular maintenance parts; I gained confidence that pig is manageable.
I did not have any check engine light codes when I bought the car, but PPI found three misfires and some timing issue. These were all fixed by replacing 8 coils and 8 sparkplugs. This would cost around 350$ to 500$ for parts and 1 hr of DYI. Anyways here is what you take into consideration for negotiation. These are very conservative and fair prices assuming DYI. If you take dealer prices, repairs would cost more than the vehicle itself .
Visual :
1) rubber coolants pipes : - 1000 to 1500$
2) tires - 500 to 800$
3) cardan shaft -500$ to 1500$
4) cracked engine mount -100 to 150$
5) vibration while driving, could be brakes, alignment, misfires, tires
6) check the rear hatch, know strut issues
7) door locks some of them don't get locked with remote
8) don't judge the car by driving on high speeds, these perform good on high speeds. The devil is in details, drive around in low gear and low speeds to see how it responds.
Engine
Coils and spark plugs replacement : 350 to 500$
Throttle body cleanup/replace : 0$ to 150$
filters 40$
Mass air flow sensors cleanup - not sure $
Life of the battery 150$ to 250$
I did not have any check engine light codes when I bought the car, but PPI found three misfires and some timing issue. These were all fixed by replacing 8 coils and 8 sparkplugs. This would cost around 350$ to 500$ for parts and 1 hr of DYI. Anyways here is what you take into consideration for negotiation. These are very conservative and fair prices assuming DYI. If you take dealer prices, repairs would cost more than the vehicle itself .
Visual :
1) rubber coolants pipes : - 1000 to 1500$
2) tires - 500 to 800$
3) cardan shaft -500$ to 1500$
4) cracked engine mount -100 to 150$
5) vibration while driving, could be brakes, alignment, misfires, tires
6) check the rear hatch, know strut issues
7) door locks some of them don't get locked with remote
8) don't judge the car by driving on high speeds, these perform good on high speeds. The devil is in details, drive around in low gear and low speeds to see how it responds.
Engine
Coils and spark plugs replacement : 350 to 500$
Throttle body cleanup/replace : 0$ to 150$
filters 40$
Mass air flow sensors cleanup - not sure $
Life of the battery 150$ to 250$
#5
Id add
torque dampener on engine $130 part 20 min job
Hatch and window struts $160 parts 1-2 hr job
emergency brake strut $20 - 10 min
if its a CTT I understand the engine mount replacement require engine removal $400 , 2k labor!
Brakes $700-1k in parts alone
I searched a radius of 600 miles and found a 2 owner well documented/maintained vehicle from private seller. All the used car dealers and even P-dealers were un trust worthy. I found a 2004 CTT in an OKC dealer but when i checked car fax, it said car was in louisiana . I called the dealers where it was serviced and would you believe they said they didnt have any records of vehicle after Hurricanne Katrina! Sounded very suspect to me
torque dampener on engine $130 part 20 min job
Hatch and window struts $160 parts 1-2 hr job
emergency brake strut $20 - 10 min
if its a CTT I understand the engine mount replacement require engine removal $400 , 2k labor!
Brakes $700-1k in parts alone
I searched a radius of 600 miles and found a 2 owner well documented/maintained vehicle from private seller. All the used car dealers and even P-dealers were un trust worthy. I found a 2004 CTT in an OKC dealer but when i checked car fax, it said car was in louisiana . I called the dealers where it was serviced and would you believe they said they didnt have any records of vehicle after Hurricanne Katrina! Sounded very suspect to me
#6
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Hey guys......thanks a lot for the ideas.
I wanted to pass this VIN decoder link that will list all your cars options......to use it, click the link and then edit the URL to put your VIN number in rather than the current one...I just used it and it works perfectly. Maybe somebody needs to put this in a sticky, its really sweet.
https://admin.porschedealer.com/repo...CB29989S755998
I wanted to pass this VIN decoder link that will list all your cars options......to use it, click the link and then edit the URL to put your VIN number in rather than the current one...I just used it and it works perfectly. Maybe somebody needs to put this in a sticky, its really sweet.
https://admin.porschedealer.com/repo...CB29989S755998
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#9
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Well....I gotta ask, why ?
I like the turbos, but would really want to go to the 2007 (gen2 style?) which puts me a bit above where I would like to be on the entry price. On the other hand the GTS (turbo look) seems like it can be had at/near my price point.
I like the turbos, but would really want to go to the 2007 (gen2 style?) which puts me a bit above where I would like to be on the entry price. On the other hand the GTS (turbo look) seems like it can be had at/near my price point.
#10
Rennlist Member
Why would you want to get 957 if its a turbo. The turbos are very close to S territory for prices. The v8 S can have cylinder scoring issues which the turbo is virtually immune to with oil sprayers. The turbos come optioned higher by default. They are anecdotally the most reliable of the range.
#11
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Why would you want to get 957 if its a turbo. The turbos are very close to S territory for prices. The v8 S can have cylinder scoring issues which the turbo is virtually immune to with oil sprayers. The turbos come optioned higher by default. They are anecdotally the most reliable of the range.
Are all the non-turbo V8 models the S engine as you allude to above ?
If so, then the GTS is an S engine as well ?
You only get the oil sprayers with the turbo ?
Sorry....for newbie questions.
#12
Why would you want to get 957 if its a turbo. The turbos are very close to S territory for prices. The v8 S can have cylinder scoring issues which the turbo is virtually immune to with oil sprayers. The turbos come optioned higher by default. They are anecdotally the most reliable of the range.
#13
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
After reading a few threads on this 'piston scoring' issue I came up with the following.
1. Piston scoring predominately in non-turbo
2. GTS does not apparently have this issue....has some kind of oil sprayer system ?
3. Scoring in turbos is RARE....but has occurred.
4. Scoring seems to occur in colder climates....not warmer climates.
5. Oil consumption is indicator of potential scoring issues ?
Thanks for any corrections here.
1. Piston scoring predominately in non-turbo
2. GTS does not apparently have this issue....has some kind of oil sprayer system ?
3. Scoring in turbos is RARE....but has occurred.
4. Scoring seems to occur in colder climates....not warmer climates.
5. Oil consumption is indicator of potential scoring issues ?
Thanks for any corrections here.
Last edited by Shannon123; 10-31-2014 at 01:45 AM.
#14
Rennlist Member
im not sure what your budget is, but if you're saying that a GTS is toward the upper end, I'd guess 30k.
For around 30k, I would get a 957 Turbo, unless you need a manual transmission in which case you would need the GTS.
For around 30k, I would get a 957 Turbo, unless you need a manual transmission in which case you would need the GTS.