brake wear
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
brake wear
I put on APJ front rotors in October and already have to replace them after approx. 15 days... I am running Pagid yellow endurance pads with them.
reason for replacing them is cracks. They will be shipped to manufacturer for evaluation.
for the rears I am still on the delivery rotors but they are on their last legs; only a couple of days left
per Clark from Apex I am gong to move to the Ferrodo DS1.11 pads as they seem to run cooler.
Wonder how this compares to others who run pretty quick on the track.
reason for replacing them is cracks. They will be shipped to manufacturer for evaluation.
for the rears I am still on the delivery rotors but they are on their last legs; only a couple of days left
per Clark from Apex I am gong to move to the Ferrodo DS1.11 pads as they seem to run cooler.
Wonder how this compares to others who run pretty quick on the track.
#2
i did hear about others mentioning that pagid yellows are a bit abrasive.
i'm running the same setup currently as you.
I was able to get ~15 days out of my stock with pagid yellows and currently have only a few days on the J hooks.
How many days did you get out of stock?
Orthojoe mentioned he is seeing 30+ days on his AP rotors, but using different pads.
This will probably be last time i use yellows as well.
i'm running the same setup currently as you.
I was able to get ~15 days out of my stock with pagid yellows and currently have only a few days on the J hooks.
How many days did you get out of stock?
Orthojoe mentioned he is seeing 30+ days on his AP rotors, but using different pads.
This will probably be last time i use yellows as well.
#3
I think the ME or DS pads will allow the rotors to last longer.
But honestly, between the labor, headaches, maintenance and running costs of the iron GT4 parts... I'm seriously considering a 4 corner ceramic setup for about $10k. Long term, they will cost less than the iron setup. Plus save weight, 10 lbs per corner.
The rotors last longer and can also be re-baked for $1000... so long-term rotor cost is much lower. Screw those PCCBs...
But honestly, between the labor, headaches, maintenance and running costs of the iron GT4 parts... I'm seriously considering a 4 corner ceramic setup for about $10k. Long term, they will cost less than the iron setup. Plus save weight, 10 lbs per corner.
The rotors last longer and can also be re-baked for $1000... so long-term rotor cost is much lower. Screw those PCCBs...
#4
Rennlist Member
That's interesting--I thought the Pagid Yellows were supposed to be relatively easy on rotors. In any case, the two-piece design of the AP J-hooks is a huge plus in being able to keep the rotor hats and just replace the friction rings. Much cheaper in the long run than buying OEM 1-piece rotors over and over.
#5
I think the ME or DS pads will allow the rotors to last longer.
But honestly, between the labor, headaches, maintenance and running costs of the iron GT4 parts... I'm seriously considering a 4 corner ceramic setup for about $10k. Long term, they will cost less than the iron setup. Plus save weight, 10 lbs per corner.
The rotors last longer and can also be re-baked for $1000... so long-term rotor cost is much lower. Screw those PCCBs...
But honestly, between the labor, headaches, maintenance and running costs of the iron GT4 parts... I'm seriously considering a 4 corner ceramic setup for about $10k. Long term, they will cost less than the iron setup. Plus save weight, 10 lbs per corner.
The rotors last longer and can also be re-baked for $1000... so long-term rotor cost is much lower. Screw those PCCBs...
What brands are you considering?
#6
Rennlist Member
Another data point, I have AP racing J hooks and Ferodo DS1.11 pads. I have 16 days on the rotors which still have plenty of life left on the front and the rears have tons left in them.
Post some pictures if you can so we can see what your wear looks like.
Post some pictures if you can so we can see what your wear looks like.
#7
Totally different context - so it's only an indication of the variability of rotor&pad combinations on longevity. On my old RS I used PFC rotors and PFC08 pads. That setup chewed up rotors in 2 days to the point where I routinely asked myself, are these safe? It turns out that cracking is fine, and unless the cracking is to an edge or larger than 1mm in thickness (not length), it's OK. That leads to pretty scarey looking rotors that are perfectly fine to use.
This is a PFC rotor after 2 days of use with 08 pads.
This is a rear OEM Turbo Rotor (cheap part that fit on the 997.2RS) after 6 days with PFC08 pads.
When I switched to DS1.11 pads, it took a lot longer until the rotors looked like this.
On the GT4, with DS1.11 pads, I made one set of OEM rotors last a whole season, which is maybe 18 track days in texas climte. And they are getting a workout, trust me.
I discussed my observations with an accomplished automotive engineer, and he said it's a very complex topic. At the high level, a specific amount of energy is needed to stop your car, and that energy is provided by friction, and a byproduct is heat. The creation of that heat is pretty general, so you can think of it as you need the same amount of heat to stop the car (with same decceleration, etc) regardless of the rotor/pad combo. But why do some products chew up rotors at different rates given the same environment, car setup, and loads? That's where there are not a lot of easy answers. We all wave our hands and say this pad is easier on rotors than that pad, or these rotors have better metallurgy than others - but I have yet to get a straight logical answer that is rooted in data with a scientific explanation. I would love to get one from an engineer from AP or PFC, but I've asked, and I just get more hand waving from sales guys.
This is a PFC rotor after 2 days of use with 08 pads.
This is a rear OEM Turbo Rotor (cheap part that fit on the 997.2RS) after 6 days with PFC08 pads.
When I switched to DS1.11 pads, it took a lot longer until the rotors looked like this.
On the GT4, with DS1.11 pads, I made one set of OEM rotors last a whole season, which is maybe 18 track days in texas climte. And they are getting a workout, trust me.
I discussed my observations with an accomplished automotive engineer, and he said it's a very complex topic. At the high level, a specific amount of energy is needed to stop your car, and that energy is provided by friction, and a byproduct is heat. The creation of that heat is pretty general, so you can think of it as you need the same amount of heat to stop the car (with same decceleration, etc) regardless of the rotor/pad combo. But why do some products chew up rotors at different rates given the same environment, car setup, and loads? That's where there are not a lot of easy answers. We all wave our hands and say this pad is easier on rotors than that pad, or these rotors have better metallurgy than others - but I have yet to get a straight logical answer that is rooted in data with a scientific explanation. I would love to get one from an engineer from AP or PFC, but I've asked, and I just get more hand waving from sales guys.
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#8
Nordschleife Master
Don't use pfc08. They killed my $$ brembo type 3 rotors on my spyder after 12 days and did the same with my buddy's 997 gt3. They are too rough on rotors
I have no experience with pagid, but it sounds like they are rough too.
Keep in mind cracks are OK. It's the large ones and ones that go to the edge that are a problem. Post of pic of the rotor. It might still be ok. Cracks will show up long before the rotor is done
AP rotors with ferodo or endless pads should last 40 days.
I have no experience with pagid, but it sounds like they are rough too.
Keep in mind cracks are OK. It's the large ones and ones that go to the edge that are a problem. Post of pic of the rotor. It might still be ok. Cracks will show up long before the rotor is done
AP rotors with ferodo or endless pads should last 40 days.
#9
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RS29 is and endurance pad and far from the most aggressive in the Pagid lineup.
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Your Porsche Parts Superstore
Parts | Tech-Session | Facebook | Youtube
Jason Burkett
Paragon Products - Porsche Parts & Accessories*- 800.200.9366
Tech Session - Porsche Tech & Info*- 361.289.8834
jason@paragon-products.com
#10
I put on APJ front rotors in October and already have to replace them after approx. 15 days... I am running Pagid yellow endurance pads with them.
reason for replacing them is cracks. They will be shipped to manufacturer for evaluation.
for the rears I am still on the delivery rotors but they are on their last legs; only a couple of days left
per Clark from Apex I am gong to move to the Ferrodo DS1.11 pads as they seem to run cooler.
Wonder how this compares to others who run pretty quick on the track.
reason for replacing them is cracks. They will be shipped to manufacturer for evaluation.
for the rears I am still on the delivery rotors but they are on their last legs; only a couple of days left
per Clark from Apex I am gong to move to the Ferrodo DS1.11 pads as they seem to run cooler.
Wonder how this compares to others who run pretty quick on the track.
#11
Rennlist Member
Good guidance straight from Essex on when to replace rotors here:
https://www.essexparts.com/news-blog...-my-iron-discs
https://www.essexparts.com/news-blog...-my-iron-discs
#12
Originally Posted by orthojoe
Don't use pfc08. They killed my $$ brembo type 3 rotors on my spyder after 12 days and did the same with my buddy's 997 gt3. They are too rough on rotors
I have no experience with pagid, but it sounds like they are rough too.
Keep in mind cracks are OK. It's the large ones and ones that go to the edge that are a problem. Post of pic of the rotor. It might still be ok. Cracks will show up long before the rotor is done
AP rotors with ferodo or endless pads should last 40 days.
I have no experience with pagid, but it sounds like they are rough too.
Keep in mind cracks are OK. It's the large ones and ones that go to the edge that are a problem. Post of pic of the rotor. It might still be ok. Cracks will show up long before the rotor is done
AP rotors with ferodo or endless pads should last 40 days.
#13
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
like really way cheaper... am very happy I made that change last fall...
#14
Rennlist Member
Good guidance straight from Essex on when to replace rotors here:
https://www.essexparts.com/news-blog...-my-iron-discs
https://www.essexparts.com/news-blog...-my-iron-discs
#15
I am still running OEM pads and discs. As with my old GT3, I'll stay with Porsche discs but will change Pagid pads when the originals are worn out. I've have found in the past that Pagid black on the fronts and yellows on the rears work well.The Blacks have more initial bite which I like.