Thunderhill track advice
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Thunderhill track advice
I'm going to track m '02 tt for the first time in two weeks at Thunderhill. The event is sponsored by Audi NA and will include a technical check and a lot of instruction. Any advice about prepping the car would be greatly appreciated.
I've been told by some that I should replace my brake fluid. My oil is at 2500 miles, with 2 quarts added, and I'm wondering if I should replace it at before or after the event.
Thanks,
Pale
I've been told by some that I should replace my brake fluid. My oil is at 2500 miles, with 2 quarts added, and I'm wondering if I should replace it at before or after the event.
Thanks,
Pale
#3
Three Wheelin'
It sounds like your first track day. With that in mind you will probably not tax your brakes to the limit and should be OK with existing fluid. However if you or the instructor were to push hard you will likely have issues. If you plan on tracking more in the future, be a good boy and do it right from the beginning. Only track on a fresh oil change due to oil dillution (<1K miles), change your brake fluid before a track day if it is more than 1 year old
#4
Race Director
I'm going to track m '02 tt for the first time in two weeks at Thunderhill. The event is sponsored by Audi NA and will include a technical check and a lot of instruction. Any advice about prepping the car would be greatly appreciated.
I've been told by some that I should replace my brake fluid. My oil is at 2500 miles, with 2 quarts added, and I'm wondering if I should replace it at before or after the event.
Thanks,
Pale
I've been told by some that I should replace my brake fluid. My oil is at 2500 miles, with 2 quarts added, and I'm wondering if I should replace it at before or after the event.
Thanks,
Pale
Flush/bleed the brakes. Be sure the brakes have plenty of rotor and pad life left.
Be sure the radiator air ducts are free of trash build up.
Be sure the tires have plenty of tread and don't have anything in them.
I assume the car is otherwise in good shape? No coolant leaks? Plugs not too old? Engine air filter and fuel filter fresh?
Go through the cabin and make sure nothing is under either seat and there is nothing in the door pockets are center console that can rattle or knock about.
Try to put as much racing gas in the tank as you can. Strive for as little dilution with street gas as you can. You want to maximize the benefit racing gasoline offers over and above its higher octane rating.
#5
Rennlist Member
audi club golden gate region sends out detailed on info in a long letter with exhibits on how to prep your car and yourself for the day
you may also google 'how to prepare for hpde track day'... there is ample good info on line from many sources
you may also google 'how to prepare for hpde track day'... there is ample good info on line from many sources
#6
Instructor
Double, triple, quadruple check under the seats when you first arrive at the track. I had a student where a Snapple bottle flew out from under the drivers seat under hard braking and lodged under the brake pedal. Fortunately, she was pushing so hard the bottle broke but it was a wake up call for me!
#7
Originally Posted by highlander
Double, triple, quadruple check under the seats when you first arrive at the track. I had a student where a Snapple bottle flew out from under the drivers seat under hard braking and lodged under the brake pedal. Fortunately, she was pushing so hard the bottle broke but it was a wake up call for me!
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#8
Racer
Thread Starter
Thanks everybody. It will be my first track day so I'll err on the side of caution.
Coolant is fine after I blew the rear fitting in June. Now everything is pinned and all seals, gaskets, water pump etc. have been replaced. I'm going to have my Indy change the brake fluid, oil (he gives me a great deal) and complete the technical check list required for the event.
I will definitely check for Snapple bottles!
Coolant is fine after I blew the rear fitting in June. Now everything is pinned and all seals, gaskets, water pump etc. have been replaced. I'm going to have my Indy change the brake fluid, oil (he gives me a great deal) and complete the technical check list required for the event.
I will definitely check for Snapple bottles!
#9
Rennlist Member
Change your oil/filter before and bleed the brakes too. I'm sure they'll have a checklist, just make sure you don't need an inspection/sign-off before the event for anything.
#13
Race Director
The stuff the Porsche dealer parts department shoves over teh counter at the tech or me has proved to be quite good brake fluid over the years, for street driving.
My 2002 Boxster brake and clutch hydraulic systems are just fine even with over 307K miles on them. My 2003 Turbo with nearly 151K miles has had nothing by the Porsche brake fluid and the brakes are just fine and I expect to remain fine for a long long time.
Just be sure you follow that 2 year brake fluid flush/bleed schedule -- unless you are going to the track then I'd do a brake flush/bleed some few days prior to the track day -- to keep the water build up in the brake fluid to an acceptable level.
I have found that while brake action was unaffected clutch action and as a result shifting action was affected by brake/clutch fluid (my Boxster shares this fluid between the brakes and clutch hydraulic systems) that I had inadverently let go around 2.5 years since the last flush/bleed. After having this done the clutch and shifting action transformation was quite remarkable.
It really drove home that while apparently the brake performance is unaffected by too old brake fluid it really does deteriorate from moisture exposure and that 2 year brake flush/bleed guideline is spot on the money.
My 2002 Boxster brake and clutch hydraulic systems are just fine even with over 307K miles on them. My 2003 Turbo with nearly 151K miles has had nothing by the Porsche brake fluid and the brakes are just fine and I expect to remain fine for a long long time.
Just be sure you follow that 2 year brake fluid flush/bleed schedule -- unless you are going to the track then I'd do a brake flush/bleed some few days prior to the track day -- to keep the water build up in the brake fluid to an acceptable level.
I have found that while brake action was unaffected clutch action and as a result shifting action was affected by brake/clutch fluid (my Boxster shares this fluid between the brakes and clutch hydraulic systems) that I had inadverently let go around 2.5 years since the last flush/bleed. After having this done the clutch and shifting action transformation was quite remarkable.
It really drove home that while apparently the brake performance is unaffected by too old brake fluid it really does deteriorate from moisture exposure and that 2 year brake flush/bleed guideline is spot on the money.
#14
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I would not use Motul600 for a street car as it picks up moisture at a greater rate than OEM or ATE200 - it's not meant for a 2 year change interval. Unless you're bleeding it often, sticking with ATE type200 makes a lot more sense.