saline

Anyone know where I can find a rebuild kit for the spoiler's hydraulic system? Also, any good links that include pics of a spoiler rebuild?

Macster

Have no linkes saved to offer you.

Did a google search of "996 turbo rear spoiler repair" and got lots of hits. A couple of videos too.

No time to read them/view the videos.

But a search and some reading/viewing of videos would be good start for you.

"02996ttx50

there isn't any "kit" that I'm aware of. but there is a place that sells a completely rebuilt set of hydraulics including the pump etc. but it isn't cheap. either is a replacement setup from porsche which is what they do anytime someone is willing to pay the PCNA rate.

but following this step-by-step has worked for a vast number of us.

all you need is some pentosin and a significant level of wrenching skill(s) lol.

1. Open rear deck-lid with spoiler in down position
2. Put towels/plastic over the engine to keep fluids from dripping onto engine or body parts.
3. Remove approx. one dozen bolts that retain shroud/fan to deck-lid
4. Loosen and remove 4 retaining acorn style nuts that hold pump onto shroud
5. Cut tie wraps that retain electrical wires and hydralic lines so pump can be removed
6. Lift pump off shroud, loosen and remove banjo fittings on driver's side of pump watch for fluid to leak out and catch in a paper towel or rag. I held pump with channel locks for a good hold while loosening
7. Remove the positiive and negative wires on the opposite end of the pump.
8. Unplug sensors on passenger side ram carefully as they are sensitive. They are under a plastic cover that pulls off
9. Turn pump upside down in proper waste recepticle to empty the fluid remaining
10. With 12 volt power source, connect positive and negative to pump connectors. You will feel the torque and hear the pump motor turning, have a towel ready to catch any remaining fluids
11. With pump in hand, slowly add fluid. The Lucas product has a snout that you can cut and place into recpticle. This took approx. 20 minutes of adding, waiting for it to seep into pump, add more, wait, add more, etc...until bubbles stop coming up. Pump should then be full
12. Carefully attach banjo fittings with pump held upright. A small amount of fluid will seep when attaching banjo bolts
13. Torque the banjo bolts snug
14. Place pump onto shroud, tighten acorn nuts and connect wires
15. Connect sensors to ram (I used a tie wrap to hold sensors in place)
16. Place shroud in position on deck lid and snug up the dozen bolts
17. Tie wrap the electrical wires to the shroud
18. Actuate spoiler from dash with key on to see if you get the warning light

split71

thank you for posting this. I will be attempting this soon, any idea on the specific Lucas/Pentosin oil needed?

"02996ttx50

yes, std chf11s ( or 202 ) cant recall with is the "newer" version but both are oem for the PS pump and the spoiler hydraulics.

i mixed 50/50 with lucas stop leak and ch11s but thats not necessary. all that matters is that they be re-bled and that no seals are faulty, and the banjo fittings are tightened to spec ( tightening torque: 15 Nm (11 ftlb.. )


from the factory manual:

Bleeding the spoiler pump unit:

1. Pulling out pump
Pull hydraulic cylinder 2 out to the dimension Y = 35 +2 mm . To do this, connect 12 V to the pump. Observe polarisation arrangement A.
2. Bleeding short hydraulic line
Slowly tighten short hydraulic line 4 until the hydraulic cylinder 2 moves. If the hydraulic cylinder has reached the lower mechanical stop inset X, push back onto the stop if necessary, hydraulic lines must be laid parallel to each other inset Z. Tighten banjo bolt 3. Tightening torque: 15 Nm (11 ftlb.)
3. Bleeding long hydraulic line
Slowly tighten long hydraulic line 5 until the hydraulic cylinder 2 moves. If the hydraulic cylinder has reached the lower mechanical stop inset X, push back onto the stop if necessary, hydraulic lines inset Z must be laid parallel to each other. Tighten banjo bolt 3. Tightening torque: 15 Nm (11 ftlb.)

Note: Use only Pentosin CHF 11 S (or it's replacement).

saline

Thanks. I assume this is for bleeding. I assume the rams have to come out to do the rebuild. My rams only have slight seepage, so do you think the stop leak would help?

"02996ttx50

yes.

DaveCarrera4

No. mine blew a gasket using the stop leak. Fluid down the back bumper, wing cocked up and stuck on one side. After filling with Pentosin PS fluid, make sure all fittings are good and tight. If your springs and seals are still good within the ram cylinders, and your motor unit seals and plunger block is still good, you should be all set for awhile. Just re tighten the 4 banjo fittings about once a year and you should be good.

"02996ttx50

i successfully used a 50/50 mix with no further issues. to be safe though a re-bleed using only pentosin might well be best.

greencalex

If your internal plastic blocks are not falling apart, the rebuild of the pump is pretty simple.

If your rams are leaking, then it is more of a pain to rebuild those, but if they are only leaking a little, then the stop leak seems likely to work.

Sure, in some extreme cases everything could start leaking like crazy, but based on all the threads I have seen, this is pretty rare.

I rebuilt my pump, and even fabricated new plastic blocks (mine were cracked). My rams were leaking a little, but I did not feel like taking them apart, so I just went with the stop leak. Still completely free of any leaks after many months, and my wing probably spends over 6 hours a week in the deployed position. My mix was probably only something like 25% stop leak; more than that, and it did start to seem like it was more viscous than it needed to be.

PM me with an address, and I'd be happy to send you the O-rings that you need for the pump assembly (when I rebuilt mine I had to buy something like 50, so I have plenty of extras...).

fung0001

I see someone in ebay providing rebuild service at an affordable price
The main problem is i don't know/ have the skill to take it off and shipped it for repair��

rufrob

I am having a similar issue. Left ram is leaking and the warning light came on. My mechanic helped me to bleed the system. I put stop-leak in the bleeding process but it doesnt seem to be work. Still have a drip of oil at the end of the ram. I wont waste my time delaying the inevitable. First fixed up position. Money permitting GT2 deck lid.

Carlo_Carrera

You can also completely replace the flawed OEM system with this high quality after market one.

https://rennlist.com/forums/996-turb...-eram-kit.html

Third-Reef

FYI, the stop leak takes about a week to a month to have its full effect. It swells the o-rings to get them to seal again. When i did mine it still weeped for several weeks. One final fill and bleed on mine when i fixed the coupling on the end of the motor that came undone and not not a drop on the bottoms of the rams for over a year.

"02996ttx50

to answer your original question, if you dont want to re-bleed the system ( though that usually is all that is needed for renewed operability .. ) or get the e-ram kit offered here by dave.

apparently, this shop in belgium(?) rebuilds the hydraulics and their site has some straightforward R&R pics you may find helpful as well.

https://www.dh-automotive.com/eng/pd...96%20turbo.pdf