Do I need a new clutch and flywheel?
10-26-2016, 02:44 AM
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Do I need a new clutch and flywheel?
Was driving home from work today. Decided to floor it while in 5th gear going 70mph. As the RPM needle reached 4.5RPM the needle dropped a bit and than slowly back up. Tested again and same thing happens with not that much pulls.
This time slowly accerlate to 80mph and shift to 6th feels ok. Floor it.. the rpm needle accelerate forward and car doesn't pull. Slow down to on coming traffic. As I was stuck in traffic I can smell the burned clutch.
1st - 3th gear seem okay, but if I'm cruising in 5th or 6th gear and I floor it...the rpms shoot up from 2500-4500 and the car doesn't pull much. Could this be a sign I need a clutch kit? Do I need to get a new flywheel to? On average how much to replace? Thanks in advance.
Mileage 78k and stock.
This time slowly accerlate to 80mph and shift to 6th feels ok. Floor it.. the rpm needle accelerate forward and car doesn't pull. Slow down to on coming traffic. As I was stuck in traffic I can smell the burned clutch.
1st - 3th gear seem okay, but if I'm cruising in 5th or 6th gear and I floor it...the rpms shoot up from 2500-4500 and the car doesn't pull much. Could this be a sign I need a clutch kit? Do I need to get a new flywheel to? On average how much to replace? Thanks in advance.
Mileage 78k and stock.
10-26-2016, 11:14 AM
#3
Rennlist Member
You are looking @~$1500 parts if the flywheel is good +$900 if you need a new one and $800 - $1200 labor depending on where you live. X 1.5 if you take it to a dealer.
10-26-2016, 02:28 PM
#4
Racer
Thread Starter
Thanks for the reply gentlemen.
I don't drive hard or race. Just normal drive to work. Any recommendation of upgrade kit or should I just stick with OEM? Later down the road I might considered just do an ECU tune (maybe). Not a fan of tuning, but this would a little kick. Many thanks.
I don't drive hard or race. Just normal drive to work. Any recommendation of upgrade kit or should I just stick with OEM? Later down the road I might considered just do an ECU tune (maybe). Not a fan of tuning, but this would a little kick. Many thanks.
10-28-2016, 12:55 AM
#6
Racer
Thread Starter
Found a shop that can do for $2700 parts and labor. No flywheel. Is this reasonable? The shop has been around for many years and the owner have been working on Porsches for 25 years.
They can put the clutch kit on if I buy my own OEM parts. But they won't cover the one year warranty/12k miles. Would it be a good idea to go this rout to save some $$ or just let them do everything?
Other shops quoted me: $3500, $4200, and...
$6500!!!(what are they smoking!)
They can put the clutch kit on if I buy my own OEM parts. But they won't cover the one year warranty/12k miles. Would it be a good idea to go this rout to save some $$ or just let them do everything?
Other shops quoted me: $3500, $4200, and...
$6500!!!(what are they smoking!)
10-28-2016, 10:41 AM
#7
Rennlist Member
Is it a C4? $2700 parts and labor is very reasonable. These cars are much easier to pull the trans while leaving the engine in place then the air cooled, where the engine/trans Assy gets pulled (dropped) as a unit.
Don't scrimp on the flywheel it could be fine, however if there is any doubt replace it.
Don't scrimp on the flywheel it could be fine, however if there is any doubt replace it.
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10-28-2016, 11:33 AM
#8
Race Director
Found a shop that can do for $2700 parts and labor. No flywheel. Is this reasonable? The shop has been around for many years and the owner have been working on Porsches for 25 years.
They can put the clutch kit on if I buy my own OEM parts. But they won't cover the one year warranty/12k miles. Would it be a good idea to go this rout to save some $$ or just let them do everything?
Other shops quoted me: $3500, $4200, and...
$6500!!!(what are they smoking!)
They can put the clutch kit on if I buy my own OEM parts. But they won't cover the one year warranty/12k miles. Would it be a good idea to go this rout to save some $$ or just let them do everything?
Other shops quoted me: $3500, $4200, and...
$6500!!!(what are they smoking!)
10-28-2016, 01:53 PM
#9
Three Wheelin'
and if you're going to replace the clutch, it may be the right time to pin/weld the coolant lines...just sayin'
10-28-2016, 02:52 PM
#10
Racer
Thread Starter
10-28-2016, 03:04 PM
#11
Three Wheelin'
Porsche engineers really overbuilt the 996 "Mezger" Turbo engine. It's rock solid. With one minor flaw, they glued/epoxed the external coolant lines into the block instead of threaded/welded, and they are know to push or pop out, thereby causing loss of coolant.
This problem exists in all the Mezger variants, 996 GT2/GT3, 996 Turbo, 997.1 Turbo.
The permanent fix is to either have the coolant fittings pinned or preferably welded into place--this work requires an engine drop, so if your engine is coming out for a clutch job, may be a good time to address.
Nobody can say if and when any car's particular coolant fittings will leak or pop out, but apparently tracking the car can accelerate the failure mode. Still happens on street cars. Do a seach on coolant fittings and you'll see what I mean.
This problem exists in all the Mezger variants, 996 GT2/GT3, 996 Turbo, 997.1 Turbo.
The permanent fix is to either have the coolant fittings pinned or preferably welded into place--this work requires an engine drop, so if your engine is coming out for a clutch job, may be a good time to address.
Nobody can say if and when any car's particular coolant fittings will leak or pop out, but apparently tracking the car can accelerate the failure mode. Still happens on street cars. Do a seach on coolant fittings and you'll see what I mean.
10-28-2016, 04:39 PM
#12
Racer
Thread Starter
Porsche engineers really overbuilt the 996 "Mezger" Turbo engine. It's rock solid. With one minor flaw, they glued/epoxed the external coolant lines into the block instead of threaded/welded, and they are know to push or pop out, thereby causing loss of coolant.
This problem exists in all the Mezger variants, 996 GT2/GT3, 996 Turbo, 997.1 Turbo.
The permanent fix is to either have the coolant fittings pinned or preferably welded into place--this work requires an engine drop, so if your engine is coming out for a clutch job, may be a good time to address.
Nobody can say if and when any car's particular coolant fittings will leak or pop out, but apparently tracking the car can accelerate the failure mode. Still happens on street cars. Do a seach on coolant fittings and you'll see what I mean.
This problem exists in all the Mezger variants, 996 GT2/GT3, 996 Turbo, 997.1 Turbo.
The permanent fix is to either have the coolant fittings pinned or preferably welded into place--this work requires an engine drop, so if your engine is coming out for a clutch job, may be a good time to address.
Nobody can say if and when any car's particular coolant fittings will leak or pop out, but apparently tracking the car can accelerate the failure mode. Still happens on street cars. Do a seach on coolant fittings and you'll see what I mean.
10-28-2016, 04:44 PM
#13
Racer
Thread Starter
Is it a C4? $2700 parts and labor is very reasonable. These cars are much easier to pull the trans while leaving the engine in place then the air cooled, where the engine/trans Assy gets pulled (dropped) as a unit.
Don't scrimp on the flywheel it could be fine, however if there is any doubt replace it.
Don't scrimp on the flywheel it could be fine, however if there is any doubt replace it.
10-28-2016, 06:46 PM
#14
Addict
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I would recommend that at near 80K miles and a slipping clutch that you invest in a new dual mass flywheel. There is risk for driveability.
1) I have over the years resurfaced 20 and 30K miles dual mass flywheels with average success. The problem is>> it is hard to tru-up a heat checked warped friction surface and not grind material that is required to prevent hot spots.
2) The rubber hub and heat checked friction surface does wear. This will show up as chatter when you put the car in reverse or in first gear up a slight incline. Porsche recommends replacement of the dual mass IF the clutch has been replaced prior in the cars history AND if there is heat checks on the friction surface.
Dual Mass flywheels do fail. They often show up as a thumping noise or wobble as you accelerate or quickly decal. Again it is a financial risk to labor with having to redo the job. The shop might give you warranty on the clutch, but the flywheel failing is a judgement call>> risk vs spending more monies.
If you aren't going to tune your car/ECU, install the factory clutch kit and enjoy the car. I'd also look into the repair records to see if your gearbox fluid has been changed.
1) I have over the years resurfaced 20 and 30K miles dual mass flywheels with average success. The problem is>> it is hard to tru-up a heat checked warped friction surface and not grind material that is required to prevent hot spots.
2) The rubber hub and heat checked friction surface does wear. This will show up as chatter when you put the car in reverse or in first gear up a slight incline. Porsche recommends replacement of the dual mass IF the clutch has been replaced prior in the cars history AND if there is heat checks on the friction surface.
Dual Mass flywheels do fail. They often show up as a thumping noise or wobble as you accelerate or quickly decal. Again it is a financial risk to labor with having to redo the job. The shop might give you warranty on the clutch, but the flywheel failing is a judgement call>> risk vs spending more monies.
If you aren't going to tune your car/ECU, install the factory clutch kit and enjoy the car. I'd also look into the repair records to see if your gearbox fluid has been changed.
10-30-2016, 02:04 PM
#15
Racer
Thread Starter
I would recommend that at near 80K miles and a slipping clutch that you invest in a new dual mass flywheel. There is risk for driveability.
1) I have over the years resurfaced 20 and 30K miles dual mass flywheels with average success. The problem is>> it is hard to tru-up a heat checked warped friction surface and not grind material that is required to prevent hot spots.
2) The rubber hub and heat checked friction surface does wear. This will show up as chatter when you put the car in reverse or in first gear up a slight incline. Porsche recommends replacement of the dual mass IF the clutch has been replaced prior in the cars history AND if there is heat checks on the friction surface.
Dual Mass flywheels do fail. They often show up as a thumping noise or wobble as you accelerate or quickly decal. Again it is a financial risk to labor with having to redo the job. The shop might give you warranty on the clutch, but the flywheel failing is a judgement call>> risk vs spending more monies.
If you aren't going to tune your car/ECU, install the factory clutch kit and enjoy the car. I'd also look into the repair records to see if your gearbox fluid has been changed.
1) I have over the years resurfaced 20 and 30K miles dual mass flywheels with average success. The problem is>> it is hard to tru-up a heat checked warped friction surface and not grind material that is required to prevent hot spots.
2) The rubber hub and heat checked friction surface does wear. This will show up as chatter when you put the car in reverse or in first gear up a slight incline. Porsche recommends replacement of the dual mass IF the clutch has been replaced prior in the cars history AND if there is heat checks on the friction surface.
Dual Mass flywheels do fail. They often show up as a thumping noise or wobble as you accelerate or quickly decal. Again it is a financial risk to labor with having to redo the job. The shop might give you warranty on the clutch, but the flywheel failing is a judgement call>> risk vs spending more monies.
If you aren't going to tune your car/ECU, install the factory clutch kit and enjoy the car. I'd also look into the repair records to see if your gearbox fluid has been changed.
Thank you for the info. I will bring those questions up with the shop. See how we will go forward. What is your opinion about GT2 clutch kit only? Pros and Cons? Or just stay with stock? Thanks.