Alan A

So I need a bit of education. Not on clutches - changed enough when I was young, poor and stupid to know the basic idea - but on ones for this model.

Had a little slip in 5th yesterday while under boost. The needle went up from 4500 to the rev limiter in very little time at all, while the car did nothing. Quite disconcerting when one is trying to pass.

As far as I know - and I'd love to be wrong - that's the clutch crying uncle. Car has a tune, but that's it on the mods front.

I searched and the info is a bit conflicting. Motor and tranny out, tranny only out, this clutch that clutch, time to do, might as wells, to the point I gave up and figured I'd ask for help.

Clutch - is the stock setup good enough for a car with a tune? If not what?

Time (so cost) to change a clutch? Engine comes out or not? I don't have time to do it myself, so I'm assuming it's something a good indie can do without screwing it up. Am I correct in that assumption?

Anything else that I may as well / need to do at the same time?

"02996ttx50

the stock oem sachs paired with the tougher non sprung gt2 disc is indeed enough to handle the torque of a tuned 996t. so, yes, you can stay OEM ( cheap(er) and simply use the slightly tougher 996gt2 disc as long as youre staying with the OEM dual mass flywheel. I've been running this setup for going on 9 years and never once has my clutch slipped and my last clutch lasted nearly 100k miles running at the end of its life approx 475whp with tune and many bolt ons for mods.

all of this of course pre-supposes you wont be harder on your clutch than necessary ( launches, unnecessary slipping etc. ).

the engine needn't be dropped, only the trans. it takes an experienced tech about 6-8 (MAX!) hours to R&R a clutch and this even with fiddling around with the clutch fork upon re-install ( lol ). ask me how i know this...

replace the rear main seal at the same time. its cheap and will be staring you in the face during R&R of the clutch once you drop the trans.

the oem setup with the 996 gt2 non sprung disc set me back a grand and i rented a lift with my buddy for 200 bucks and a cpl six packs and some chicken is all my clutch replacement cost. your costs will of course vary, and any good indy can do this but 8 hours labor ( MAX! ), though *most* shops will ( try to ) rip you off, of that i am certain. knowledge is power though

GL w it.

gophaster

Mark, great info above. Are you on a stock 996t pressure plate + gt2 disc or did you go to a 764 or other pressure plate?? Is there any change in engagement, sound, etc or does it still behave like stock??

Thanks bud!!

"02996ttx50

all stock parts and feel and again only the addition of the slightly more robust gt2 disc which ( I'm told ) will take more banging around since its unsprung. all i really know is it works for me as I'm easy on clutches and this replacement clutch will see only canyon hillclimbing and occasional onramps/hi-way. so it holds just fine. fortunately i haven't even had an accumulator fail in a few years! ( fingers crossed

as to even a sachs 2.5 "kit" i just never felt the need to though i imagine that upgrading to the 890nm rated plates, i'd never see or experience their "limitations" with the power i'm making.... i also kept the dmfw for exactly the reason you mention i dont need more noise. consequently, the only chatter i ever hear is my saturday night date.

PS.. if i ever get a cayenne? I'm gonna put cf10's on it. thanks to you lol

911mhawk

Several threads here on this, go with one from someone who has done it a bunch with great feedback.

Call UMW/Kevin for a very complete kit. If you value your time, searching will be over quickly and only conflict will be whether or not to get some real power while it's out

Can be done with engine in but if you're keeping car long term, now may be the time to do other preventative. Preventative can go pretty far and cost quite a bit if you do it well. Several threads have the "while I'm in there" list, feel free to PM me or search more, I posted a list at one point too.

Since you don't have the time now personally, but it seems you may have plenty of capability based on your other toy, I'd probably get the clutch done with engine in and do the drop of both when you have a couple weeks to leave it out and replace lots of hoses and other preventative items.

A new dual-mass or LWFW, PP, all the small parts, and a couple other considerations that could fail should be done while transmission is out.

Cup cables are easier with no transmission in the way, a couple of us have put on a fluid pump for track duty, new GT2 1/2/3 mainshaft and bearing refresh? List can get crazy, trust me!

gophaster

Good stuff Mark...thanks! Yeah, Cayenne Turbo + CF10's are a match made in heaven!! lol ...if you ever need an suv the Ctt is such a great one, I sure love mine

Warehouse33.net

I also offer the Sachs 2.5 clutch kit.
PM me if interested.


-Jason

Macster

Never had the clutch replaced in my Turbo but the transmisssion has been out several times, once to replace the original leaky transmssion and once to fix a leaky RMS.

As long as the engine is properly supported there is no reason to drop the engine. The first time the tech used an engine jack to support the engine. The 2nd time he had a special support that bolted to where the rear sway bar usually bolts which supported the engine.

The tech told me he always replaces the needle bearings the clutch control shaft runs in and the turbo metal o-rings that help seal the turbo to the exhaust manifold.

I don't recall the time necessary to drop the transmission and put it back but I'd hazard a guess 8 hours is plenty of time.

Oh, 2nd that suggestion to replace the RMS. When the transmission was out for replacement the RMS was fine. This was IIRC around the 30K mile mark. I didn't even think of replacing the RMS. (The replacement RMS in my 2002 Boxster has remained leak free every since July 2002 and for over 275K miles.)

But at around 120K miles the Turbo RMS was leaking and of course the transmission had to come out again.

Had I to do it over again I'd had the original RMS when the tranny was out the 1st time.

However, unless the tech says otherwise, if the transmission comes out again though I'm leaving the replacement RMS in service.

Kevin

Here is a great clutch kit..

https://rennlist.com/forums/996-turb...-595-00-a.html

Typically we don't see many rear main seal failures until the mileage gets over 85 to 95K..

Alan A

So the Indy I normally use does it by pulling the engine.

"It's easier with it on the stand".

That gets me firmly into while I'm in there hell.

Yuck.

911mhawk

How many miles are on it?
Do you know the Indy well enough to not get "retailed" on additional parts you may want to replace?

Alan A

43k.
No. They have a good reputation, but I only dealt with them once before. I'm sure regardless I'm getting retailed.

Tune and FVD exhaust are only mods - and I'm not looking for more. Exhaust was courtesy of PO and I'm not a fan.

911mhawk

Ahhhh, low enough miles that not much should be needing replacement, but 15 year old hoses make you think twice. I know the feeling.
Any chance you'd drop it yourself again and do all the rubber hoses, water pump, check valves, vacuum lines, hard to reach items, and pin the fittings?
If you plan to keep it long term or drive it frequently, I'd do more than necessary now or later myself, but that's me.
Maybe you can get off with just the clutch, put it back and go 3+ more years without
having to mess with it again. The only real additional cost if you end up dropping it in the near future is the R&R cost.

32krazy!

dropped my driveline a half dozen times by now. down to 5 hrs from start to finish. just dropped my trans left the motor in took about 4 hrs. dont let them rape you on the labor costs

"02996ttx50

now, thats what I'm talkin about.