32krazy!

not by choice! putting it back in may take longer than if i had just dropped the entire driveline. we shall see this weekend when i stick it back in

"02996ttx50

^ referring to the timeline of the trans drop/cutch r&r job itself ( 5 hrs is pro-speed! ) not the frequency of occurrence! my tech who has done this countless times, told me only reason the clutch fork had to be fiddled with for 45 minutes was because i was standing there

autobonrun

Like you the only mod I have on my TTS is a tune (UMW). The first time it slipped, I had one of those "did I just feel that" moments. I made the same route and it did it again. At that point, I changed the tune back to stock and ordered a new clutch kit with the LWF so I'd do no more damage to the stock clutch. I had the new clutch installed and reengaged the UMW tune. Everything's good again.

So to answer your question, yes a tune can push a TT past the limits of the stock clutch. Mine had less than 30k miles on it, so I know it wasn't worn out. I'm very easy on clutches; one change in 214k miles on my SC and the same OEM clutch after 142k miles on my M5.

32krazy!

the last time i dropped the trans and left the motor in it took 3 days of messing with it to get it back in. swore i would never do it again but i just had the motor out twice in the last month! so i bit the bullet . hopefully it goes back in without drama this time

"02996ttx50

two words ( again ). clutch fork

this from an incredibly knowledgeable diy'r from yesteryear: talisman013 and he ain't wrong

VERY IMPORTANT STEP. Using the alignment tool, center the clutch disc and pressure plate on the flywheel and lightly secure the flywheel. Once lightly secured, eye of the alignment tool and MAKE SURE its centered. This will be a major PITA later if not.
Now torque down the pressure plate, using normal diagonal pattern.(24 ft-lbs I believe, confirm for yourself in manual for clutch or Porsche repair manual)
Lube the tranny spline shaft with appropriate grease(i used lithium grease)
Lube the fork tips where it rubs against the throwout bearing(or just lube throwout bearing) I lubed the fork where the slave cylinder shaft hits, not sure if this was necessary. Be sure the fork holes are cleaned and lightly lubed, makes sliding in the pivot shaft easier. Now the 3rd tricky part, put the fork in place, and tape it to the pressure plate. It should be perfectly horizontal, if not re-tape. I used electrical tape, put it on your pants first to make it less sticky(easier to pull off). Position the end of the tape towards where the opening will be on the passenger side of the transmission. This is where you will remove the tape from.
Slide transmission back into place, the top passenger side shaft is the 1st one to get into place, then adjust accordingly for the rest.
Look thru driver side port hole to line up fork with pivot shaft hole.

You Tube

VERY CRITICAL STEP. Time to slide the pivot shaft back in place, if you drop anything, you have to pull tranny back out. Using the same 6mm bolt you used to remove it, instal it. When I did this the outside roller bearing popped off, I made a tool using nut driver and some sockets to push the outside bearing in place.

You Tube

32krazy!

I made it easier after the last battle. Had a 1/16" hole drilled into the clutch fork cup. Now i can slide a threaded rod into the hole to align the fork when installing the c/f rod. No tape or dropping the fork

"02996ttx50

nice... i wont claim to be able to visualize what you've done, but anything that makes that alignment easier wins.

greencalex

This was sort of the position of the guy who did my clutch.

If you are good at the procedures, dropping the engine does not take massively longer than dropping just the trans (assuming you have the right heavy equipment, etc...), and it (1) reduces the chance of unanticipated problems, and (2) lets you do any other extra work easily; i.e., dropping the engine is not intrinsically that expensive, it is just that it costs a lot according to "book" rates...

He backed the claim up with a pretty reasonable labor charge, and it was nice to be able to inspect everything while the engine was out.

Alan A

Interesting.
The clutch here doesn't seem worn out so it may well be the tune overpowering it. I should reload the stock tune and see if that -is- what it is.

Alan A

Drove it today. Temp was cooler. Car was fine. Didn't baby it either.

And as an aside, I'm very very easy on clutches. Learned in one, drove them ever since, never worn one out.

What I would like to say though is I wish I'd heard as many options here as I've had PMs from people trying to sell me clutch setups.

I'd have had way more options to discuss.

911mhawk

More likely the pressure plate is toast and won't hold the clamp force required for the tune, than your clutch being shot. My clutch had plenty of material on it when it started slipping and all I had was a tune too.

volv4life

same thing just started happening with me.. i blame the cooler weather, tried to roll into 4th at about 80 mph and the revs would climb but no grabbing..

Alan A

So I'm supposed to be dropping it off Friday.
List of might as wells I came up with was:

Coils/plugs
Pin/weld coolant pipes
Water pump
Replace all soft lines

I miss anything?

autobonrun

That's what I did as a test. Went back to stock tune and it didn't slip when I drove the same route. At that point I was certain it just couldn't handle the power from the tune. Not sure what I'll do with it but I kept the OEM clutch and flywheel.

Alan A

I booked it in for a new one. Goes in Friday. I'm not losing the tune - too much fun.
Driving a PTT last week made my mind up.
This is way more fun, so I'm keeping it.

It'll be going for a plastic-wrap treatment when I get it back from the shop so hopefully it'll stay nice and I won't need to do much else to the drivetrain for a while.