Roy996tt

Current owner has provided "Action Plan" from Service Dept at Schneider+Nelson Porsche in West Long Branch, NJ. (Attached).

He also has provided a detailed service history with receipts, which I've reviewed and it appears to paint a complete picture of the car.

I REALLY want a "second opinion" from an Independent source.

Any recommendations?

Thanks,

Roy

32krazy!

If your close to maple shade nj undercover performance builds these cars every day

Blswan

On a side note that's about what you should expect to have to do to every car you purchase. An Indy should be cheaper however. I just did all of the above to mine plus coil packs and plugs for $2200.

The NSX dude

I get my Turbo serviced at Schneider Nelson, now Porsche of Monmouth, very happy with them after a disappointing experience at Ray Catena. They seem to know these cars well.

Quadcammer

bodymotion is a good choice

blockhed

prevost motorsports

TT Surgeon

Second bodymotion.

pcbloom

bodymotion

Kevinmacd

Maybe I missed it, but it has to include a compression test, and a full diagnostic download, using the Porsche diag tool,or a tool that does the same.

Atrox

Compression test isn't standard for a ppi.

Kevinmacd

Really, a good shop will,either perform a compression test or leak down test or both!
If they dont perform at least a compression check you are short changing yourself!

[url]http://flatsixes.com/advise/maintenance-tips/pre-purchase-inspection-porsche-ppi

Some of the following may not apply to certain models
ECU/DME
- (OBDII) read fault/readiness codes

TEST DRIVE
- full throttle in 2nd (once warm), ensure 0.8bar boost (not "limp home mode") and check for clutch slippage
- idle at 880 +/- 40rpm
- make sure no stall on quick stop with A/C on
- check for wheel rub (full left/right lock while forward/reverse)
- test ABS (ABD if possible)
- watch temps.
- Ensure oil thermostat opens
- listen for oil cooler fan speeds at stop
- Check braking (no shudder/squeal/pull to either side)
- Ensure smooth power steering
– downshift into 1st at ~15mph to ensure easy engagement, no odd noises
- upshift and downshift into 2nd at a variety of speeds, ensure no crnchiness or notchiness

TURBOS
– check for oil leakage
- look inside pipes (turbo to intercooler) for oil

CLUTCH
– ensure no “clicking” or “hanging up” in clutch pedal motion (engine stopped and running)
- no signs of slippage
- accumulator
- check for hard pedal before start
- check for pentosin leaks from accumulator/slave

DRIVETRAIN
- visually inspect rear diff., viscous coupler, front diff. (for leaks, damage)
- check rubber CV joint boots for tearing/cracking

ENGINE
- compression test all six cylinders
- perform a leakdown test on all six
- check serial number – should begin with “61V” (1996) or "61T" (1997)
- check distributor, coil(s), plug wires for visible damage
- check engine tray (if installed) for oil deposits
- check for all fuses/relays (match w/ diagram on box cover)
- check valve covers, timing chain covers for leaks

WARNING LIGHTS
– all come on with key on, extinguish upon start
- make sure CEL not tripped (check OBDII to rule out removed bulb)
-check LCDdisplay on OBC for full functionality

CLIMATE
- A/C blows cold
- heat blows hot
- all climate control functions work (buttons/switches functioning)

STEERING
- check steering rack for leaks
- check rubber boots for tearing or cracking
- inspect p/s pump for leakage

OIL LEAKS
- check under engine
- timing chain covers
- lower valve covers
- smoke on start?
- smoke once warm?

MISC
- tool kit present
- jack present
- air compressor present
- door locking (from all switches and remote)
- alarm
- number of key fobs

LIGHTS
- driving lights
- head lights
- tail lights
- 3rd brake light
- fog lights
- interior
- trunk/engine lid lights
- glove box
- all turn indicators, including hazards

BODY
- check for rust, especially near bottom corners of windshield seal and around seals
- remove headlights, check forimpact damage/paint work/metal work
- any signs of impact damage
- check for even gaps either side of hood, trunk
- ensure engine bay stickers
- ensure sticker under luggage compartment (trunk) lid
- level “turbo” badge
- inspect for rolled fenders
- if possible – paint thickness meter?
- check for repainting/overspray around plastic, in door jams, etc.
- trunk
- look for corrosion (beneath fuel tank, brake reservoir, around bolts)
- check under spare wheel for rust, ensure drains OK
- look at ABS/ABD control unit for corrosion
- inspect for paint damage beneath hydraulic components
- check for small cracks in front bumper (should exist on 11yo car)
- install tow hook – should thread evenly and straight
- check taillight (condensation)
- remove rear bumper (front also if not too time consuming), check for repaint/metal repair underneath
- check seals (pour water down leading edge of doors, sunroof)
- check door for missing, clicking, loose straps/stops

INTERIOR
- check condition of vinyl/plastic/fabric
- check function of electric, heated seats
- power windows (ensure every switch works)
- test front wipers at all speeds (including delay)
- check windshield and headlight sprayers
- ensure function of rear wiper (if installed)
- defrost
- rear window, windshield, outside mirrors
- electric mirror controls work
- check AM/FM/CD/tape(?) for function
- check clock for function
- ensure sunroof opens, closes

"02996ttx50

that's a teriffically helpful checklist, and probably double what porsche dealerships do for an inspection.

leftlane

Have done several PPIs and never done a compression test - unless the mechanic finds a reason to suspect an issue and thinks it would be a good idea there is no reason to throw away an extra $300 to get that done automatically.

cburke996

+1 to Bodymotion. Been going there for years...actually it was my first job as the shop bit** during highschool!