Starting my search for a 996TT
08-27-2014, 03:12 PM
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Starting my search for a 996TT
Long time lurker, but here's my first post. I looked at my first 996TT at the local Porsche Dealership in Colorado Springs. It's not my ideal car but I figured it was a good way to see what these cars are like.
I've been reading a lot on Rennlist about some of the specifics to look for, but I've got some additional questions. Just as a frame of reference, it's a Silver 2004 996TT with about 53k miles.
The paint was is good condition with several minor rock chips, however on the bottom 2 inches of the front bumper the paint looked like a spider web. This was the section above the black plastic lip. Is that normal?
The car is on consignment with the dealership, but another potential buyer paid for a PPI at the dealership. So the head tech walked through the PPI with me and the service history in detail and pointed out what was just repair and what he would still recommend. It was very thorough, however, would you still suggest an outside shop to perform a PPI?
For the typical 996TT with 50k miles and in the $40k-$45 range, should I expect all known/obvious issues to have been addressed or should I still expect some items to need to be address after purchasing? For example, with this car the clutch slave cylinder was just replaced, but the front differential seals are slightly leaking and the sun roof only tilts up. Should I expect those issues to be addressed at this price range?
Thanks for any suggestions.
I've been reading a lot on Rennlist about some of the specifics to look for, but I've got some additional questions. Just as a frame of reference, it's a Silver 2004 996TT with about 53k miles.
The paint was is good condition with several minor rock chips, however on the bottom 2 inches of the front bumper the paint looked like a spider web. This was the section above the black plastic lip. Is that normal?
The car is on consignment with the dealership, but another potential buyer paid for a PPI at the dealership. So the head tech walked through the PPI with me and the service history in detail and pointed out what was just repair and what he would still recommend. It was very thorough, however, would you still suggest an outside shop to perform a PPI?
For the typical 996TT with 50k miles and in the $40k-$45 range, should I expect all known/obvious issues to have been addressed or should I still expect some items to need to be address after purchasing? For example, with this car the clutch slave cylinder was just replaced, but the front differential seals are slightly leaking and the sun roof only tilts up. Should I expect those issues to be addressed at this price range?
Thanks for any suggestions.
08-27-2014, 03:31 PM
#2
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You have to decide which car is right for you.
Do you want the sunroof working?
How is the clutch itself? If it has not been replaced, then one might be around the corner (depending on how it was driven).
The spider paint is most likely from a parking stall impact with the concrete sidewalk or wheel stop.
I would suggest that you sit down and price out all the repairs to get the car to what you expect. Then you discuss the prices with the owner. Or you walk and find another car. If someone paid for a PPI, this means that they passed on the car.. Don't get emotional in the car buying transaction. As a rule of thumb I look at 4 to 6 cars with PPI's before I buy.
Do you want the sunroof working?
How is the clutch itself? If it has not been replaced, then one might be around the corner (depending on how it was driven).
The spider paint is most likely from a parking stall impact with the concrete sidewalk or wheel stop.
I would suggest that you sit down and price out all the repairs to get the car to what you expect. Then you discuss the prices with the owner. Or you walk and find another car. If someone paid for a PPI, this means that they passed on the car.. Don't get emotional in the car buying transaction. As a rule of thumb I look at 4 to 6 cars with PPI's before I buy.
08-27-2014, 03:34 PM
#3
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Make sure that you check the rear wing spoiler/hydraulic cylinders.. If you see any oil or shiny plastic, the oil has been mopped up>hiding a problem.
The leaking front diff will require $$$$ to repair, you might have wear to the internal diff bearings if both seals have failed.
Also, make sure they look at the radiators.. You will be forking out $3K to fix all three..
The leaking front diff will require $$$$ to repair, you might have wear to the internal diff bearings if both seals have failed.
Also, make sure they look at the radiators.. You will be forking out $3K to fix all three..
08-27-2014, 03:38 PM
#4
Burning Brakes
The car is on consignment with the dealership, but another potential buyer paid for a PPI at the dealership. So the head tech walked through the PPI with me and the service history in detail and pointed out what was just repair and what he would still recommend. It was very thorough, however, would you still suggest an outside shop to perform a PPI?
For the typical 996TT with 50k miles and in the $40k-$45 range, should I expect all known/obvious issues to have been addressed or should I still expect some items to need to be address after purchasing? For example, with this car the clutch slave cylinder was just replaced, but the front differential seals are slightly leaking and the sun roof only tilts up. Should I expect those issues to be addressed at this price range?
FWIW, there are several sweet examples currently for sale by rennlist board members right now.
Lastly, take your time and enjoy the search. The hunt is half the fun, man.
08-27-2014, 03:52 PM
#5
Instructor
My experience = take your time, the more example you can look at - the better you will be able to spot the gem (when you find it).
Some prefer un-modded, low miles. Some prefer more miles &well driven, well sorted.
In any event, be aware of your potential for maintenance costs. "Bulletproof" is a term typically used and while the engine may well be stout - there are many many components used to deliver the HP on these cars. Maintenance and Parts is not cheap unless you can do everything yourself. I spent $12k in maintenance my first 2 years on an enthusiast owned, well sorted, 'in excellent condition' vehicle.
Personally, I'd look for a car that has proof of Blackstone oil test, replaced hoses and clamps including pressure test, proof of replacement of the normal bigger ticket niggles like radiators, MAF, clutch, coolant pipe weld, etc. Otherwise, plan to tackle your jobs big when you have to do them (boost leak = have shop replace as many hoses/clamps as possible and do a pressure test) - otherwise, you will pay 2-3 times for similar jobs.
Some prefer un-modded, low miles. Some prefer more miles &well driven, well sorted.
In any event, be aware of your potential for maintenance costs. "Bulletproof" is a term typically used and while the engine may well be stout - there are many many components used to deliver the HP on these cars. Maintenance and Parts is not cheap unless you can do everything yourself. I spent $12k in maintenance my first 2 years on an enthusiast owned, well sorted, 'in excellent condition' vehicle.
Personally, I'd look for a car that has proof of Blackstone oil test, replaced hoses and clamps including pressure test, proof of replacement of the normal bigger ticket niggles like radiators, MAF, clutch, coolant pipe weld, etc. Otherwise, plan to tackle your jobs big when you have to do them (boost leak = have shop replace as many hoses/clamps as possible and do a pressure test) - otherwise, you will pay 2-3 times for similar jobs.
08-27-2014, 04:00 PM
#6
Rennlist Member
^+1. Be patient and picky. I wouldn't be too concerned about having all the known problems addressed (e.g., clutch accumulator) if the price is right. However, your PPI will give you a good indicator of what items will need to be immediately addressed. Also, establishing a maintenance baseline can be costly unless you know the history/have records. As stated above, have a boost leak test performed (should hold 17-20 PSI for ~30 seconds).
08-28-2014, 12:08 PM
#7
Race Director
Long time lurker, but here's my first post. I looked at my first 996TT at the local Porsche Dealership in Colorado Springs. It's not my ideal car but I figured it was a good way to see what these cars are like.
I've been reading a lot on Rennlist about some of the specifics to look for, but I've got some additional questions. Just as a frame of reference, it's a Silver 2004 996TT with about 53k miles.
The paint was is good condition with several minor rock chips, however on the bottom 2 inches of the front bumper the paint looked like a spider web. This was the section above the black plastic lip. Is that normal?
The car is on consignment with the dealership, but another potential buyer paid for a PPI at the dealership. So the head tech walked through the PPI with me and the service history in detail and pointed out what was just repair and what he would still recommend. It was very thorough, however, would you still suggest an outside shop to perform a PPI?
For the typical 996TT with 50k miles and in the $40k-$45 range, should I expect all known/obvious issues to have been addressed or should I still expect some items to need to be address after purchasing? For example, with this car the clutch slave cylinder was just replaced, but the front differential seals are slightly leaking and the sun roof only tilts up. Should I expect those issues to be addressed at this price range?
Thanks for any suggestions.
I've been reading a lot on Rennlist about some of the specifics to look for, but I've got some additional questions. Just as a frame of reference, it's a Silver 2004 996TT with about 53k miles.
The paint was is good condition with several minor rock chips, however on the bottom 2 inches of the front bumper the paint looked like a spider web. This was the section above the black plastic lip. Is that normal?
The car is on consignment with the dealership, but another potential buyer paid for a PPI at the dealership. So the head tech walked through the PPI with me and the service history in detail and pointed out what was just repair and what he would still recommend. It was very thorough, however, would you still suggest an outside shop to perform a PPI?
For the typical 996TT with 50k miles and in the $40k-$45 range, should I expect all known/obvious issues to have been addressed or should I still expect some items to need to be address after purchasing? For example, with this car the clutch slave cylinder was just replaced, but the front differential seals are slightly leaking and the sun roof only tilts up. Should I expect those issues to be addressed at this price range?
Thanks for any suggestions.
This assumes the issues are not such that you should just reject the car.
The front diff seals job is around $800. Had this done at around 110K miles on my 03 Turbo a while back. The front diff and the rest of the front drivetrain was just fine.
Sunroof only tilting up I'm not sure what's up with that. Are you pushing the right buttons? There is a different button to tilt the thing and another to cause it to slide back.
Spider web cracks in the front bumper is not normal based on my experience. I suspect the car has bumped something or something has bumped it.
While the spider webbing is not the end of the world my inclination would be to have the front bumper cover removed and inspect behind the bumper cover then looking for any signs of damage or signs of (sub-par) repairs.
Be sure you have a good test ride in the car then follow this with a test drive. You want to spend as close to an hour in the car as you can. Also, the engine wants to run about an hour. In this amount of time and with a reasonable test ride/drive route this gives the DME time to go through all checks. You want the CEL to start out dark -- though it should light when the key is turned on but go out when the engine is started -- and remain dark throughout the entire test ride/drive time.
I would prefer the PPI be done *after* the test ride/drive. The test ride/drive gives any leak a chance to make itself known so it can be spotted during the subsequent PPI.
DME over rev counters are read and thus you know the most about the car at this point. With the PPI already done and the over rev counters already read you are basing your decision in part on old/stale info.
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08-28-2014, 02:13 PM
#8
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Thanks for all the advice. I'm definitely passing on this car. Way to many issues to potentially address. All the PPI advice is great. I'm sure I'll have more questions once I get to that stage with another car.
Is there a list of common repairs for 996TT's? In other words, if you bought 10 year old 100% original 996TT what are the top 5-10 items that you would expect to replace. I have read about stuff like the coolant tank, clutch cylinders, radiators, etc. Just trying to gauge what issues potentially have already been addressed based on the car's history.
Is there a list of common repairs for 996TT's? In other words, if you bought 10 year old 100% original 996TT what are the top 5-10 items that you would expect to replace. I have read about stuff like the coolant tank, clutch cylinders, radiators, etc. Just trying to gauge what issues potentially have already been addressed based on the car's history.
08-28-2014, 03:10 PM
#9
Rennlist Member
I just went through this process . If you search the term PPI you will get lots of threads ,
Including mine . As said , take your time and enjoy the search , getting to know the market
And your preferences as to specifications . All effort put in now should help you make a good
Choice eventually .
Including mine . As said , take your time and enjoy the search , getting to know the market
And your preferences as to specifications . All effort put in now should help you make a good
Choice eventually .
08-28-2014, 04:57 PM
#10
While PPI is a good thing, it's not a magical process that can reveal every issue or soon to be issue on the car. I would rely on it to point out that the car is whole in the major functional areas, and to use those as leverage for your negotiations if you’re willing to accept the deficiencies.
That said, whether low/high mileage, modified or not. The reality is that the car is 10 years old. There’s quite a few known areas on the 996 that are generally high maintenance in terms of needing regular replacements, or attention after 10 years.
Definitely take your time and find the best example that meets your needs. Though I’m just suggesting that you will want to have budget set aside to address potential high maintenance areas. Some of the big ticket items have been already touched on. There are quite a few small ones that aren’t necessary expensive in terms of parts, but can be expensive labor wise, especially if they were to be addressed individually.
Some others:
1) Vacuum leaks
2) Check valves
3) Diverters
4) Headlight switch
5) Vacuum lines
6) MAF
7) Spark plugs/Igniters
8) Engine/Tranny mounts
Not to scare you away. The car is incredible and completely worth the trouble.
That said, whether low/high mileage, modified or not. The reality is that the car is 10 years old. There’s quite a few known areas on the 996 that are generally high maintenance in terms of needing regular replacements, or attention after 10 years.
Definitely take your time and find the best example that meets your needs. Though I’m just suggesting that you will want to have budget set aside to address potential high maintenance areas. Some of the big ticket items have been already touched on. There are quite a few small ones that aren’t necessary expensive in terms of parts, but can be expensive labor wise, especially if they were to be addressed individually.
Some others:
1) Vacuum leaks
2) Check valves
3) Diverters
4) Headlight switch
5) Vacuum lines
6) MAF
7) Spark plugs/Igniters
8) Engine/Tranny mounts
Not to scare you away. The car is incredible and completely worth the trouble.
08-28-2014, 09:26 PM
#11
5th Gear
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+1000 Take your time. Decide what you want, what you don't want, what you are impartial too, and are big NO's... Then start looking in state, out of state, way way on the other coast etc... The right car is out there just maybe not a short drive away... Don't settle just because you really want a 996TT (which I promise you, you do 
)find the right car.
It took me a 4mths to find the car I pulled the trigger on... Some cars were on the list but wanting to much money, others I looked at I quickly passed on... The car I ended up with was 8 states away, I bought it from pictures, service records, and a report on from an Indy PPI source... Couldn't be happier with the car....
)find the right car.It took me a 4mths to find the car I pulled the trigger on... Some cars were on the list but wanting to much money, others I looked at I quickly passed on... The car I ended up with was 8 states away, I bought it from pictures, service records, and a report on from an Indy PPI source... Couldn't be happier with the car....
08-28-2014, 11:46 PM
#15
Drifting
Spend the extra money upfront and get a nice car that passes a ppi and your inspection= the discount specials rarely are worth the hassle. Read some posts from buyers and you will learn a lot.