rockitman

I am interested in knowing how much oil to put in when I do a clean change. Due to heat expansion of oil, the reading on the guage can vary. I can be up to water temp and oil temp and after 1500 miles on the electronic guage I am 1 tick below full. I drove the car the other day in a much more spirtited fashion and I was showing full due to greater oil heat expansion. What does everyone think is a good fill amount so as to not overfill when doing an oil change??? What initial amount of oil is a good starting point to add and then drive the car hard to see what the actual level is prior to topping it off to the max oil level??? Thanks.

skl

Just changed the oil today for the first time. A piece of cake especially compared to my old 993. Hell, it took all afternoon to change both filters on that car! By the way, I put in 9.5 quarts and the oil level registers right in the middle. Great DIY page at renntech.org.

rockitman

Thanks skl...so since each segment on the meter represents .25 qts. and there are 3 segments to full from the halfway point, it looks like it holds 10.25 qts when full after the change. Guess I will fill it with 9.5 to 9.75, drive it hard and check the meter, then top off accordingly...

So the change went as expected as outlined in the Renntech instructions??? No surprises??

Was the car lifted from behind with jack stands or was it level on a lift when you drained it?

Thanks

skl

I have a pit in my garage so I just drove over it... went VERY easily.

rockitman

Lucky dog!!!

skl

My dad and I built a garage 30 some years ago and put in a pit because so much Porsche stuff is done underneath. Replicated it in my garage as it is so handy. With all the new lifts however I'm not sure what I'd do now. The only disadvantage to the pit is you can't take wheels off very easily if you need to while working on the car. (Great exercise however digging the damn thing!!)

Karl S

I'd suggest you drain the oil with the car level. It won't make much difference for the oil sump but I'd be concerned that you won't get all the oil out of the engine case, since the oil drain plug is in the middle. With the car tilted forward, some oil may collect at the front of the case and not drain out the case drain hole.

I don't remember if this is covered in the DIY instructions but you also want to make sure you remove the filter and leave it off while the oil is draining.

Karl

rockitman

Arghhh, that means putting the car up on 4 jack stands...No problemo..Thanks for the heads up Karl...Keeping the car level certainly makes sense during the drain...

CKarras

Given the low clearance of the GT3, are there any tricks to getting it up on four jack stands? Do you lift one side and then the other, or front then rear? What do you put between the stand the the car, or is there a lift point that does not need protection? Do "standard" jacks fit under the car?

rockitman

GT3 Jacking Procedure

I have the DK20 low saddle profile floor jack and 4 jack stands. You will need a hockey puck to place on top of the supplied rubber pad on the jack and a couple of 4x4 pieces of wood for the rear wheels.
Raise one side of the car using a rear jack point,
Place jack stand under front jack point, and 4x4 under rear wheel,
Lower car, raise other side using rear jack point,
Place jack stand under front jack point, and 4x4 under rear wheel,
Lower car,
Place jack under engine, the 4x4's under the rear wheels provide sufficient space to get the jack under the car.
Raise the rear and place jack stands under rear jack points.

ringmeister

The GT3 is by far the toughest car I have put on a lift. I'm doing an oil change on mine today and I've got all 4 wheels on 2" platforms and I'm still having a tough time getting the lift arms under. Not to mention that the arms are just a tad too long so the pads don't line up with the lift points. It took me longer to get the car up in the air that it did to do the oil change. I think rockitman is onto something with his 4x4s.

Larry Herman

Ringmeister, you must have the wrong lift. I simply drive my car up onto 4 2x8 squares, and then the lift arms go right under the car. Mine has the screw up pads, and they fit perfectly on the four jack points. It only takes me 2 or 3 minutes to get it up in the air. Piece of cake!

ringmeister

I guess so. I've been using it for 15 years without a problem. Is yours assymetrical and if so, do you back the car in or drive it straight in? On mine the end of the car with the most weight should be towards the front side of the lift.

Larry Herman

Didn't mean to come across harsh (if I did). My lift, a Franklin SL9000 (goes by Powerex also) is assymetrical, with shorter front arms, and has a 30/70 max load ratio. I just pull straight in and align the back of the steering wheel with the column. It really works nicely and with the low profile arms and screw up pads, it is easly to lift any car. No problems with the GT3, 951, Subie WRX or the Yukon XL Denali.

plima

Wrt changing GT3 oil, I do mine without lifting the car at all. If you shop around you can find a collection pan that will hold 10+ quarts and easily fit uinder the case. I open that drain plug first, let it drain for several minutes, put another pan under that drain, empty the big pan, and move it under the oil tank, etc. Since I don't raise the car, it is level, and the whole job is complete in an hour.