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I am about to replace my IMS with an LN Engineering unit. I got this far but i have a question as far as the three chain tensioners.
Engine locked at TDC
Camshafts in bank 4-6 (passenger side) locked on the flywheel side.
Noted and marked where the camshafts are at on 1-3 side.
Looks like there is some seepage around the IMS but nothing really serious. RMS seams to be OK, although i will replace it as well.
My question is in regards to chain tensioners. Both Bently and Pelican book say to remove all three. I am not sure that is necessary, and i can't seem to find the thread but i believe even Jake saying that removing the one on the 4-6 bank does not make any difference as it is on the opposite side of the intermediate shaft. It's right below the ac compressor on the belt side which i would have to remove to get to the tensioner. So if somebody that has done it already can confirm that indeed only the IMS and 1-3 bank chain tensioners, both on the flywheel side, should be removed it would be appreciated. Thanks!
P.S: It's a 2004, three chain car. Oil is drained and filter inspected, clean as a whistle. Nothing on the magnetic plug either.
Wait. I have not done this but my understanding is you should lock the bank 1 cams and not bank 2 as shown in your photo. I could be wrong but please make sure.
http://europeanpartssolution.com/wp-...structions.pdf
Same principles for IMSB removal. Also supports locking bank 1 cams (driver side) and there is no need to remove the bank 2 tensioner below the a/c compressor.
Thanks Ashai, i think you are absolutely right. I misread the LN instructions completely for that step. It makes sense to lock the cams where you are removing the tensioner on i guess.
Well locked the right bank this time, had to spin the engine 360 deg.
Removed to two tensioners on the flywheel side.
Cleaned up the are a bit.
Got the IMS flange off. And took the bearing out.
I expected some oil to come out of the tube but not as much as i saw. There was quite a bit. Bearing seemed in fairly good shape.
After i took the sides off i realized that the bearing was full of old oil, there didn't seem to be any play in it. A washed it all out, and the guides seem to be in perfect order.
I think the bearing would've been fine for some time to come, but i am glad i am doing it right now. The car has about 35,000 miles.
Nice photos. Another perfect bearing bite the dust Seriously though you can now sleep better at night. Are you putting in the regular LN single row or the pro double row version?
Going with the LN Retrofit, plain single row. I've had it sitting in my garage for over two years, and just didn't want to live through the irony of my engine detonating while i've had the bearing this whole time Also i wanted to have a look at the flywheel as it was diagnosed by the dealer to be the cause of my rough startups (if you remember). I took it out, you can see it on one of the pictures. The disk surface has seen better days, but i am not sure if theres anything wrong with mechanical internals of it, based on the twist test. I do still need to make sure that that crank angle/flywheel sensor that counts the teeth is working good as well. Winter here is still far from over so i got all the time in the world still
Wasn't lazy, went ahead and changed my RMS today. Used the Bently video instruction, worked well but it wasn't as easy as i thought it would be to get it out. The new one went in pretty easy using that contraption i borrowed from a friend, that he also used and assured me works well. I hope it went in straight. There is only one ****ty way to find out if it didn't. I also cleaned up the IMS tube and the flange area, so i can try and bang the new LN IMS in tomorrow. It's in the freezer tonight.
I only removed the driver side tensioner, per DoF instructions. I seem to have had no issues. Be careful installing the RMS with the homemade PVC tool - you can quite easily drive the seal all the way through and off the end of the crankshaft sealing surface.
I only removed the driver side tensioner, per DoF instructions. I seem to have had no issues. Be careful installing the RMS with the homemade PVC tool - you can quite easily drive the seal all the way through and off the end of the crankshaft sealing surface.
Ya it's very easy to push it in further than required. Of corse i found the spec the day after i put mine in. The new 997 RMS needs to be 13mm in from the face of the crankshaft. Surface where the DMF bolts onto. I measured mine to be a little further in, and pretty uneven, so i am gonna have to fix that.
In the mean time, LN IMS, and the snap ring are in. It's pretty tight, even after sitting in the freezer over night, but it's in.
03-01-2015, 03:14 AM
Advice Needed (Warning, IMS acronym used!)
Seriously though you can now sleep better at night. Are you putting in the regular LN single row or the pro double row version?
