mmasse

Hi,

I have drop the transmission of my car to do a clutch job and to replace the RMS. When inspecting the car it seems that the IMS is also leaking. I am not 100% sure, since it is difficult to tell if the oil residues are result of the RMS leaking, but in doing research on the forums it seems that the experts recommend to exchange the IMS while in there.\
Now, I am a little bit scar of what it seems to be involved in replacing the IMS and I was not able to find any post which explains the DYI procedure.

Can anyone help me in understanding what involves the IMS job?

I knwo that I can get the retrofit kit which will provide me with the bearing extraction tool, but do i need any other special tool for this?

Thanks in advance

Dave!

The IMS seal is all you'd want to change, and for that you're not taking the bearing out or anything, you're just removing the cover and changing the seal. I don't know the details but I can't imagine it's any more difficult than the RMS.

15psi

This is what you are looking for. Remove the IMS cover (3 bolts & center nut). Check the IMS bearing to see if there is any play. If there is, it will need to be replaced. If you decide it is fine, you will need a new seal and new bolts with the special encapsulated seal (and probably new center nut).

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...erTech-162.htm

Jim

M3 Defector

All of your IMS questions can be answered here: http://www.flat6innovations.com/

They have write ups, pictures etc...and you can call them and ask about your specific car.

Dharn55

Here is the connection for LN Engineering which make the IMS bearing and flange upgrade.

http://www.lnengineering.com/ims.html

mmasse

This look like the way to go. I will take the cover out and check the bearing for play. Now, is there any specific care/adjustment I have to take with the center nut. What's the torque value for it? Also aould you happen to have the torque value for the 3 bolt on the IMS cover?

Thanks

Jake Raby

Replacing the flange and seal doesn't enhance the integrity of the bearing. It may help guard against oil leakage, but it will not enhance bearing life.

Dharn55

Jake is right (as he usually is), the new Porsche flange with the updated seal does not enhance the bearing, it only improves the sealing at the flange. I did the new flange when I had my engine out last spring, inspected the OEM bearing which seemed to be good, and removed the seal on the bearing per LN's suggestion. At the time the tool for the removal of the dual row bearing was still in the works. Had it been available, and if I was sure my repairs to the intermix on my engine were going to be successful, I would probably have done the upgrade. $600 and an hour or so of labor (assuming the engine is out of the car) is relatively cheap innsurance. One of the most common failures your see on the M96 engines is the IMS, even on the newer 05+ 997's.

If I was you I would go for the LN upgrade!

15psi

I also agree that the best solution is to upgrade to the LN upgrade. You should never have to worry about the IMS again. It includes a very robust bearing, larger center bolt/nut and upgraded flange.

You didn't mention your mileage, but if you are close to 100k as I am, it would be well worth the extra $ you would spend. It is one of my winter projects.

Couple of things to consider:
1. IMS failure is not a common failure. But if it does happen, you are probably buying an engine. ($5~11k)
2. Sometimes you will hear the IMS rattling just before it takes the engine out. If you shut it off in time and not restart it, you might get away with a build ($3-5k)
3. 'Root Cause' analysis has provided so little in terms of providing the factor(s) that cause the IMS failure. Some engines fail @ 30k, others have hit 200k and running strong. There is no 'smoking gun' that points to the real cause. But there do seem to be a chain of events that are involved.
4. There are 'good practices' that might improve your chances of a 'long life' IMS. Frequent oil changes, proper oil type, not lugghing engine at low revs, not over revving (4th gear miss), let engine warm enough before higher revs. (some say 'drive it like you stole it')
5. L&N and Jake Raby have put a lot of work in coming up with a long term fix. $600 is not bad for the peace of mind.

Give Jake Raby a call- great guy and excellent help on the phone.

chsu74

Define proper oil type...

15psi

It is interesting that of all the car forums I participate in, this is the only one that is 'oil sensitive'. <it is a great forum>