WingChun

I have a stock DMF and clutch setup on my tt that have now done well over 100k miles and the clutch has been juddering badly now for some time, usually at low speed, although it wasn't slipping at all.
So I figured maybe the DMF was on its way out or the PP and decided to pull the transmission (that was fun) and take a look.

I noticed some oil running off one of the bottom studs as I undid the nut so I suspected maybe the input shaft seal but not the RMS leaking all over the place!

DMF and clutch plate look OK, not even worn down to the rivets. There was some rust on the input shaft splines though.

Is this common at this sort of mileage or maybe the RMS was installed wrong?
Can the clutch judder be from any other cause?

ca993twin

Clutch "judder" is frequently caused by oil on the clutch. When you get the oil leak fixed, be sure to wipe the flywheel dry, lubricate the input shaft splines, and of course pop in a new disk and pressure plate and throw-out bearing.

Mike J

Corrosion or rust on the input spline is not unusual, especially at that mileage. The grease just dries up over the years. If that clutch/flywheel has done over 100,000 miles and is not worn out, you get a GOLD star for good clutch skills!

I would replace it all with a LWF setup, not a DMF. At that mileage, its very likely the DMF is toast anyways. Post pictures of the clutch disk and the wear surfaces on the flywheel and the pressure plate - you should be able to see if there is any oil or grease that has impregnated the disk material and thus led to shuddering. You also might have a really glazed friction surface that means the grip is not linear and then it also can shudder.

Replace the RMS as well just as a matter of course. Was the input seal on the transmission gone too? Pressing that one in is a bit of a bear, I used the clutch glide tube and its two attachment points to push in the new seal - seems to work great!

Cheers,

Mike

WingChun

Sounds like pretty sound advice, thanks Steve.

WingChun

Mike, my documents show the clutch and DMF were first replaced at 16K miles due to a seized TO bearing and car has now done 118K, so I guess that is pretty good!

Was no oil on the input shaft seal but I will replace that anyway, like the idea of using the guide tube to drive it in.

Reckon I will put the LWF, GT3RS 4.0 disc and Sachs 764 PP as others have done, seems like a good combination?

One question on RMS replacement, can the seal tool P234 be used on a 993, as on Pelican Parts site this is listed as upto 1994?

Thanks
Stu

ACEparts_com

Your flywheel looks fairly similar to my recently replaced one. My flywheel had a few high spots.

Make sure you fit the RS release bearing or you'll never get the gearbox back on the engine!

I have that setup and it's superb!

OverBoosted28

I'm jealous, want what your putting in bad.

911PERVY

Its a win, win situations Stu, go LWF & RS Clutch, the pickup is amazing!

WingChun

Any driveability issues/stalling or fierce clutch behaviour?

Also did you put the stock slave cylinder back in or go non assisted?

WingChun

Could be a nice winter project?

OverBoosted28

Most have stated nothing but good results. It will be a change and just need a little practice. A small amount noted what they felt as a "hair trigger" clutch, but those are few and far btwn. Some have gone unassisted to even things out. I'd stay assisted just out of convenience and get used to it. I will be doing this as it's pretty high on "priorities". But what I call priorities, most call "wants". The cost of this one will put a bit further up the list for me, some day. Sooner the better.

911PERVY

After 300 miles you get used to the new feel. Slight noise around 2K for a bit, still assisted

Pick up is brilliant though, revs so easy