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You are covering a lot in one shot....keep the updates coming.
I ended up with using the Tarret rear links which allowed me the adjustability when lowering, but didn't break the bank. Both Tarret and Rennline are very nicely made pieces.
Update four. So sadly the wheel I was getting repaired just got repainted today instead of last Wednesday like I thought it would so it will be another 3-4 days until I can put on the tires. I'm trying to figure out how to modify my new alcantara shift boot so that I can get the rothsports shifter on. Right now I am thinking about cutting down one of the seams then riveting in a snap so that there will be a larger enough opening to let the **** through but I can still close it tight afterwards.
Update 5, this time with pictures!!! So we got the strut tower bar installed along with the shocks and struts. Got the toe arms in and all the shift linkage. Cut the air box and put in a new filter. The Rothsports shifter and the golden rod make the shifts feel amazing. Really can't wait for the car to be finished, thought it would be finished last friday but now it looks like it won't be done until at least next monday. If anyone has any questions I'm happy to answer them and if anyone has any recommendations I would like to hear them.
Update six. I picked up the refinished wheel and it will have had a week to dry. I'm going to get the tires mounted on Monday and hopefully get it aligned on Tuesday. I ordered a stainless steel clutch hose as last year when I was autocrossing the car, I believe the clutch hose ballooned as the clutch pedal felt very weird. After installing that I'll be flushing and putting in higher temp fluid. I was checking underneath the car for any rust as my dad drove the car year round in St. Louis and the car was in Michigan before that. Happily there hasn't been any rust and no bolts have snapped which is just crazy for a 20 year old car driven in the salt belt! I also have ordered some clear turn signals and the bumperette deletes from Gmorat. I'm also looking to repaint the brake calipers as the clear coat has chipped off. I'm thinking about doing it myself with some G2 brake paint and some stickers but I might want to leave it to the professionals for a later date.
Tomorrow is the big day! Stainless steel clutch hose should come in so then all that is left to do is an oil change and transmission flush. Going to put in Mobile one 15w50, I'm sure someone will tell me that I should use unfiltered unicorn tears or else my engine will explode.
Here is a video of it starting up for the first time in front of me with the bypass pipe, pardon the excited giggles.
JUST GOT THE CAR BACK!!!!! Everything is great so far but there is one problem, with the rennline adjustable gas pedal, the driver side lloyd floor mat can't be put into place properly. I had to move the floor mat back past where the hole and the screw go together. Any chance the pedal was assembled incorrectly or is this a known problem with the rennline pedal? Good news the car made about 240 horsepower at the wheels 48 hundred feet above sea level so the engine is definitely running well.
I hope not to offend the OP but, I see a bunch of parts being thrown at the car w/o a plan
p/u fronts bushes
Rennline mono-ball toe links
stock, probably worn, rear A-arm bushes
stock, probably worn, kt link
shocks and spring that do what changes to the ride height and suspension geometry
This seems to me to be a recipe for disappoinment
I'm with Bill on this, a strange combination of components.
No to question Bill's advice, but I would side with OP here. I think what he is doing is better than nothing if he is enjoying it.
P/U bushings are better than worn old ones (I would go for Elephant sport ones, but that's me), plenty of ppl happy with p.u. ones.
Rear toe links alone do make a positive difference confirmed and recommended by several guys who track so again it's an improvement.
Better shocks/springs than stock - I have no comment here as I don't know. Koni that I know on another identical car to mine feel a bit soft, but might a different model.
GR is def. an improvement
Roth shifter is probably where I would save the money, if budget is an issue.
Maybe Stage 2 will be new rear links and rennline subframe mounts with wevo engine mounts and upgraded engine carrier.
OP,
So what about maintenance items are those all up-to-date (valve gaskets, plug wires, plugs, caps&rotors, brakes, belts). Don't forget alignment and corner balance after all said and done.
Originally Posted by simpsoap
Andy -
Looks like things are coming together well. Did you ever get the alcantara boot to fit over the Rothsport shifter?
-Soap
I had to cut the seam to get the **** through and I haven't yet gotten the metal boot ring thing that goes on the bottom of the boot figured out. Annoyingly I'll need to cut open the bottom seam as well to get the ring in. It also needs to be shortened. Hopefully I can get someone to resew everything because the last time I resewed anything I was in home ec in 7th grade.
As for the random assortment of parts thrown at the car, the poly bushings have removed all the shaking from the wheel, the toe arms were worn out but all of the other arms are very tight with little deflection, the rear of the car has always been super stable. I was able to get everything aligned into spec and I know I should be using rs wheel carriers but I haven't noticed any bump steer. The car drives better than it ever has. It's not a track car, at most it will be used at 4 autocross events a year, most likely 2-3. Down the road I'm sure I'll be upgrading some other things.
04-09-2016, 09:02 AM
LrMobile2104-2016-101693524353622171 by Andy Hodapp, on Flickr
LRM_20160420_192525 by Andy Hodapp, on Flickr
IMG_0177-Edit-Edit by Andy Hodapp, on Flickr
