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Old thread... but I used it today as guidance to jack up the car to get to the gear linkages. I am very nervous about getting under a car balancing on 4 jack stands, it just doesn't look or feel safe to me so I used the 'ramp method' and reversed the car on to 2 ramps to raise the rear. Then I used a floor-jack to lift up the nose using a plank under the tub as described here. In order to get enough clearance to get the floor-jack under the nose I simply used a second jack at the front jack point on the drivers side. I then went back to the front and lifted it up and then placed a jack-stand on each point on the front positions to secure. Very easy- took less than 5 mins and I feel it is much more secure than 4 jack stands. Obviously no good if you need the rear wheels off!
@meenrod invest in a set of 4 esco stands. They are really easy to use and super solid with a pin that locks the height of the stand and some rubber pucks so it doesn't scratch/dent. the jack stand points. Works perfectly via the cactus method described in this thread.
Thanks Samurai, but it's less an issue of not trusting the jack stands and more an issue of it looking precarious and my fight or flight reaction kicking in and me not wanting to get under it! There is so much over hang at each end .
Yep. Same for me too. I basically have an extra set of wheels I slide under the car when my current ones stay on. Wedge some 4x8 blocks between the wheel and body pan for extra measure.
I would say when the car is level on the esco stands it is very stable and solid climbing into the car, shutting the door etc...
The 993 on Escos is incredibly stable. Climbing under my Cayenne 955 on 4 jack stands...much more nerve racking. I use 2 more stands for a total of 6 stands.
Has ANYONE here EVER had ANY problems come out of using the engine case to lift the rear? I'm not trying to stir the pot on this one, but that method would be ideal for me if I knew for CERTAIN that its safe and has never directly lead to any problems for us here.
Because I have a pit in my garage I don't need to jack the car regularly, but when I do the jacking process is complicated by the pit itself getting in the way.
If you don't wedge a board between the seat and the brake pedal, the car can roll when jacking the rear end up high enough to get the Esco jack stands under the jack stand points of the car. As you all know, pulling the e-brake handle only locks the rear wheels.
If the car rolls forward when jacking the rear end up and off the boards, the whole rear end of the car is teetering on 1 inch width of engine case. IMHO, this is not a very safe scenario.
...Think about it. I had the pleasure of witnessing this, while the "cactus" method was being demonstrated.
Personally, I use the cactus method with a few tweaks.
1. I wedge a 2x4 between the brake pedal and bottom of the seat.
2. I raise the front of the car under hard points, (not the bottom of the frunk), using a harbor freight strong back that attaches to my hyd jack.
I agree with the rolling. I have some blocks I put on the front tires. Also my car is RS height so I can barely get my low profile jack under the engine with a puck. Need to jack it put some 2x10s under the rear tires. Then move to front and jack it again barely getting a 2x6 under the front to jack the front on the first notch of the escos. Then move to the back to jack the rear. Back and forth I go to raise or lower the car about 2 notches a time until I get it to a height I need to do some work under the car. 2 hockey pucks stacked up does good to get extra jacking height.
I was not able to edit my previous thread from 2011 so I made a new one.
Default How To Jack Up A 993
So this question is asked over and over so I will do my part to help some peeps since so many have helped me. I will keep it short but sweet. Things needed....
4 -2x6x24 Make sure they are no shorter....more on this later.
4 - ESCO flat top stands
1 - Low profile jack. I got mine at Costco for $99 and it works great.
1-5 Hockey pucks.
First thing to do is drive the front wheels up on 2 of the 2x6x24" boards and make sure you pull all the way up to the front of the board. Reason is when you jack the back up it pulls the car backward.
A small detail I did but not necessary was bevel the edge to make driving onto the board easier. Next throw a hockey puck on the jack pad and place under the engine as shown (people in Switzerland are screwed)
Jack up high enough to get the stands under the rear and set the rear down.
Next go up front and remove the two rubber drains sticking down. Now place a 2x6x24" board on the jackpad (without the puck this time) and place under the pan behind the front bumper as shown
Now place the front stands in place and lower the car. All done and if you want to go higher just repeat the process while raising the stands each time.
A final detail is placing a hockey puck on the top of each stand which makes the contact smaller allowing more clearance for removing the undertrays. Hope this helps.
If you don't wedge a board between the seat and the brake pedal, the car can roll when jacking the rear end up high enough to get the Esco jack stands under the jack stand points of the car. As you all know, pulling the e-brake handle only locks the rear wheels.
If the car rolls forward when jacking the rear end up and off the boards, the whole rear end of the car is teetering on 1 inch width of engine case. IMHO, this is not a very safe scenario.
...Think about it. I had the pleasure of witnessing this, while the "cactus" method was being demonstrated.
Personally, I use the cactus method with a few tweaks.
1. I wedge a 2x4 between the brake pedal and bottom of the seat.
2. I raise the front of the car under hard points, (not the bottom of the frunk), using a harbor freight strong back that attaches to my hyd jack.
Nice idea to add the 2x4 to apply the front brake. I've always blocked the diagonal wheel when jacking from the rear, never had an issue. My 540 even puts a wheel block in the trunk. But be oh so careful of course.. Miss my lift these days!
Great thread! This is the first time I've heard of being able to lift the front of the car from the front using this method.
I'll put it to the test soon, as I'll be putting the car up on stands to do the full suspension upgrade.
Am I reading this correctly that this group generally prefers the ESCO/AC jack stand to the JackPoint jack stands? Also another more basic question: what if I just want to take off one wheel at a time to clean up the wheel wells? Should the car still be on jack stands for that simple task?
02-08-2016, 02:40 PM
