Johnny_law

Thanks Nathan,

Let me think about it....Nope.

Johnny_law

Update: I ended up taking the car. Two loose nuts on the sender and one in the car.

Just minor seeping, so kinda in Porsche Spirit. I appreciate the great comments. The problem seems to me these are small studs and nuts 3-4mm taking a 8mm socket. The studs are wobbly as well so Mikes suggestion might work. But with some itty bitty vice grips which I do not have. The slot in the end didn't work. Too much torque on the stud.

I am bothered by the whole thing and wished I didn't try to "improve" the car but it would be nice to see the oil level when set at 1/4-1/3 on the stick. Now I'm thinking of calling Sunset and asking the price in a new tank. I'm sure the answer will bring me back to my senses. But knowing it ain't right is really bothersome to me.

Does anybody have a spare tank? I'm not sure how hard it would be to R&R an oil tank. Anybody know?

Anyhow I'm taking Dad out in his first Porsche ride this morning and that is worth more than the car to me.

Johnny

mpruden

I often have a nut loose in the car, too.


There's an oil tank on ebay for $250 OBO. I would imagine that dismantlers have them as well (I like Parts Heaven). New is ~$1200, so I'd avoid that if possible.

You can probably JB weld the existing studs in place as mentioned above, or push in some new bolts (again, using JB weld to hold) once you get the sender out of the way. I have to think that would be a near permanent repair without having to remove the tank.

Trick would be to keep anything from falling into the tank.

JM993

I've got an extra oil tank. They aren't to hard to R&R. Please PM me if interested.

Cheers
Joe

jevvy964

A decent metalwork shop will have a mig stud welding kit which will be able to replace the snapped studs no problemo, might need the tank removed to do it but probably cheaper than a new tank. I had this exact problem resolved by a local dude for very little ££.

White911TTOne

Jonny, if the nut is spinning with the stud that means that the stud broke off. See pic. Just take all the nuts off and remove the plate with the gasket. Remove the tank and have a new stud weld to it. M

White911TTOne

Johnny_law

I'm using the web app on my phone so pictures should work. After my 250 mi round trip I put the car on the lift and removed the liner and was surprised to see that it was bone dry. So I have time to think about this. I'm pretty sure that the studs are welded to the back of the mounting plate that is welded on the tank because I did remove the four outside nuts and the plate won't budge. Of course I used finger strength and a bit of prying as I didn't want to damage the rubber gasket which I purchased new from sunset in anticipation of this adjustment to find that the gasket is reusable.

The one aspect that is making me rethink this is that the tank has a date stamp on it that shows 20 January 1997. My car is pretty original so if I can I will try to keep it like that. But the fix needs to be OEM quality IMO.

So time is on my side, so to speak, so this might be a winter project and leave my spring to the installation of my PSS10's.

Looking at it again I don't think that Mike J suggestion would be easy as there isn't much room between the nut and the sensor plate. The nut would need to be pretty thin. The suggestion of the wire wrap sounds intriguing and easy enough to try.

So pictures:







Close-up of the loose nuts

Busta Rib

This is a good one, Nathan. Sorry to hear about your woes, Johnny. Sounds like it is something we can tackle at a later date. PSS10 install next week! Woot!! Whatever the recommended time is to install, triple it and order enough beer, accordingly. See you next Sat.

Johnny_law

You bet Jim and Pizza too! Looking forward to archiving a museum piece, a sub 20K mile suspension struts for the next owner.

CHJ

How is the calibration done, bend the float rod? Mine shows at the bottom of the range most of the time while the dip stick shows almost to the max. When I make a stop (after it's warm) it moves up to the top of the range. It seems rather worthless. I'm glad there's a dip stick.

Chuck

Pags993

^ +1, I pretty much ignore it. After this incident caused by trying to fix it I am going to pretend it's not even there lol

Could be worse, my wife's '05 Boxster oil level readout is digital with no dipstick! Can't wait until that sender fails. It sometimes takes over 20 minutes to give a reading, some quality engineering there.

NYC993

Yours is working like it should. It shows level when stationary and fully warmed up.
Btw, you want to be at low to mid stick level when fully warmed up (car is running).
To the max is a bit too much.

And yea, adjust by bending the rod.

jhg41977

Pacific oil cooler will be able to repair your tank. Thetires will probably have it for a week or two though.