Air Chisel
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Air Chisel
I may attempt a DIY of removing the rear sub frame bushings, LCA bushings & rear KT arm bushings (pressing in Elephant RS sport bushings) as part of an RS suspension refresh this winter. From what I have read an air chisel can make quick work of this. I currently do not own any air tools. Is there a kit w/specific size chisels that works best for this task ? I could borrow an air compressor from a friend...not sure how much PSI this requires though. I will still need to have the bushings pressed in by someone....recommendations ?
#2
Rennlist Member
Unfortunately, I have know idea if an air chisel is good for those tasks, hopefully someone else will chime in, but I think my air chisel is the favorite tool I have. When used in the correct purpose it can pop things off in seconds that otherwise can defeat 10 minutes of pounding with a hammer. Right up there with the wheel imo.
#3
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Yep, the chisel is the only way you'll remain sane if you're doing these. Doesn't need to be a huge set up, just a basic one will do. Invest in a good compressor, decent air tool kit and have at it. There's little recessed areas on the subframe where you'll start the chiseling upwards. Try and get the lip of the old one started and then work your way around. Once it's up about a 1/4-1/3 of the way out, it's moves pretty easy. You may try and start on the bottom one, get it out, start the top and then finish by hitting it from the inside. Be careful not to chew up subframe. Are the new bushings in a sleeve? If not, you should not need then pressed, unless the instructions say otherwise.
On the LCA and KT arms, you may be able to get the bushings in with a large C clamp or even a good bench vise. I ended up getting a decent but small press at Harbor Freight which paid for itself on first use.
On the LCA and KT arms, you may be able to get the bushings in with a large C clamp or even a good bench vise. I ended up getting a decent but small press at Harbor Freight which paid for itself on first use.
#4
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If using an air hammer, chisel whatever best to use one with a long barrel and low number of blows per min. llike 2200 or 2500 bpm.
Very hard hitting. hit a second or so and off if comes without damaging anything.
Very hard hitting. hit a second or so and off if comes without damaging anything.
#5
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Actually, its the volume the compressor can move that is the real measurement of the compressor, not pressure. They all run around the same pressure fully charged - 100 to 120 psi for instance. Most air tools (like chisels, drills, cutters) use a lot of air, so those little pancake compressors can run the tools, but not for long, and they have to work really hard to continually recharge. If you are an occasional user, then get a smaller compressor but watch its temperatures if you are doing some heavier work, like chiselling.
You do not really need anything special to knock these support out of the arms - I do these on the lift so its a bit easier, but basically I lift the car to a good working height, support the subframe with a jackstand (in my case its about 6' tall..) and let off the four mounting bolts. I usually start each mount with a hand chisel and hammer to get a spot where the air chisel can safely start on the insert - otherwise you run the risk of marring the subrame. Its not a big deal if you do scratch the subframe, there is lots of metal in the castings.
Anyways, drive out each puck and then insert the new ones. You can press them in a few different ways, if you can drop the frame enough you can use a C clamp for instance. I could not get then totally seated with a C clamp, so I finished the job by bolting the subframe back to the car, and tightening the mounting bolts pulls the inserts into the subframe.
It does take a bit of time, but I suspect it would be really challenging to do it without an air chisel.
Cheers,
Mike
You do not really need anything special to knock these support out of the arms - I do these on the lift so its a bit easier, but basically I lift the car to a good working height, support the subframe with a jackstand (in my case its about 6' tall..) and let off the four mounting bolts. I usually start each mount with a hand chisel and hammer to get a spot where the air chisel can safely start on the insert - otherwise you run the risk of marring the subrame. Its not a big deal if you do scratch the subframe, there is lots of metal in the castings.
Anyways, drive out each puck and then insert the new ones. You can press them in a few different ways, if you can drop the frame enough you can use a C clamp for instance. I could not get then totally seated with a C clamp, so I finished the job by bolting the subframe back to the car, and tightening the mounting bolts pulls the inserts into the subframe.
It does take a bit of time, but I suspect it would be really challenging to do it without an air chisel.
Cheers,
Mike
#6
Three Wheelin'
Just did the subframe mounts this past Saturday and installed the Rennline solid mounts. Used an air chisel and it took about 15 minutes not including getting the car in the air. This is the only way to go as far as I am concerned.
#7
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Ok, off to Sears where I can buy the whole setup w/compressor. I will be removing all of the suspension arms as well as shocks. Car will be up on 4 Esco jacks on highest setting so access should be ok. I'll post pics of my progress once I begin.