99er

The dealer won't even give me the code if I came to the shop. They said they would need the car and the new fob and do it themselves, i.e. charge me 1-1.5 hours of work.

IXLR8

That key code card came with the cars. Find another dealer and don't use that one for anything.

99er

Yeah of course when I bought mine, that was missing. This immobilizer business is such a pain. I tried calling Suncoast, but their policy is to bring the car in with documentation and then they would give me the code. Don't understand the big deal from the dealers and why they make such a fuss.

99er

So I brought my title and my license to the local dealer, and they finally acquiesced and gave me my immobilizer code. The parts manager kept harping that if the procedure was done incorrectly, the fob would be ruined or that the system would reset? Something to that effect.

In any case, is there any downside if the procedure is not done correctly?

Thanks.

nine9six

That dealer is brain dead...Absolutely no lockout or ruining of anything if the procedure is performed incorrectly. Just an unprogrammed fob.

99er

Thanks – for those that have done this, let's say I call the working immobilizer FOB 1 and the non primed one FOB 2, I assume I start midway down the first page with "working electronic FOB" section. After step C and moving to page 2 with programming step 1, none of my warning lights flash after 15 seconds. I've waited 30 seconds and longer with no effect. I did see the immobilizer light turn off then back on, and the light above that turn off, but nothing flashing.

The warning light referenced in the Feedback column, I assume to be the big exclamation point? Why is there a step D on the first page if step C feedback is go to programming Step 1?

Thanks.

pp000830

My error I added step "D" and did not rewrite the previous step. I fixed the download document so the update can be printed off. It should be clear what to do and why you earlier attempt didn't work,
I apologize for causing aggravation here.
Andy
Sorry,
Andy

99er

I noticed you had a few earlier posts citing this process for 1995 993. Do these instructions apply to 1996-98 as well?

Thanks.

99er

Hah! Success. I combined this with comments from Hoggel from this thread:

https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...ferrerid=44637

Two things to clarify, the warning light is actually the immobilizer light rather than the !
And turning the key in the ignition needs to be done very quickly for each turn before the immobilizer light goes on again.

If you know what you're doing, this process will take all of 5 minutes – and the dealer wanted to charge me 1.5 hours!! UNBELIEVABLE NEW COUNTRY PORSCHE OF GREENWICH!!

pp000830

Yes

pp000830

Glad that it all sorted out for you!
Andy

mathfuzzy

Andy - hugely valuable - adding my 'thanks.'

I'm planning add a third key to my car. I suspect the answer to the following question is 'no' and sorry if this has been asked and answered elsewhere, but just to check, in my case where there are two perfectly good working keys / remotes, I only need to program the new key, correct? In other words, I don't need to reset/reprogram the already working fobs in addition to the new one that needs programming?

Thanks in advance and all the best,

JD

pp000830

Hi JD,
I suspect you will need to remate all your fobs during the programming process. The system only supports up to 4 fobs and I am unaware of any procedure to unmate a fob so this leads me to this conclusion. When you get to the fob linking step start with your new fob(s) first and see what happens.

Andy

davesnothere

It's also my understanding that you need to program all remotes at the same time. In fact, I would consider this a security feature as it means that the only paired/mated remotes are the ones physically in your possession.

- Dave

mathfuzzy

Ah, okay, thanks guys. Glad I asked. In any event, once you get to the last steps of programming the remote, it's not much incremental work to re-set / re-program two more.