Alarm/Immobiliser Saga
#16
This may have been done by simply pulling the relay located just behind what would ordinarily be known as the firewall, next to the steering shaft.
#17
Update
Thanks for the suggestions guys.
Got the car running today using the key programming procedure. Hooked up a scan tool and car showing no faults but the alarm is still double flashing and the key fob procedure came up empty.
Extremely frustrating to say the least but it was nice to hear the car purring in the garage at long last.
Will give the service manager at the dealer a call to see if they have any ideas.
Feel free to offer any further suggestions.
regards
Jim
Thanks for the suggestions guys.
Got the car running today using the key programming procedure. Hooked up a scan tool and car showing no faults but the alarm is still double flashing and the key fob procedure came up empty.
Extremely frustrating to say the least but it was nice to hear the car purring in the garage at long last.
Will give the service manager at the dealer a call to see if they have any ideas.
Feel free to offer any further suggestions.
regards
Jim
Did you try as suggested in post #4?
If so, what were the results of the double blinking door lights as you turned the ignition on, with all bulbs pulled?
What were the result of the double blink lights as you one by one, replaced the bulbs, and turned on the ignition?
#18
Problem has been sorted. I took the car to the dealer after starting the car consistently using the key procedure. I could not get the remotes to program so after going over all the ground that I had gone over the dealer confirmed that there were no issues with the car other tan either the remotes were bad or the alarm unit itself was bad.
Ordered a new remote and the nightmare has ended. Very strange that both remotes went bad at the same time.
Thanks again for your suggestions and advice.
regards
Ordered a new remote and the nightmare has ended. Very strange that both remotes went bad at the same time.
Thanks again for your suggestions and advice.
regards
#19
Drifting
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: la la land | comin' back soon nyc
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Problem has been sorted. I took the car to the dealer after starting the car consistently using the key procedure. I could not get the remotes to program so after going over all the ground that I had gone over the dealer confirmed that there were no issues with the car other tan either the remotes were bad or the alarm unit itself was bad.
Ordered a new remote and the nightmare has ended. Very strange that both remotes went bad at the same time.
Thanks again for your suggestions and advice.
regards
Ordered a new remote and the nightmare has ended. Very strange that both remotes went bad at the same time.
Thanks again for your suggestions and advice.
regards
think mine have just gone too! both.
my97 cabriolet. replaced with new alternator & checked (fairly new) battery... but issues began with remote not 'keyless" opening doors & car seeming like a dead battery upon trying to start... but this only occurs intermittently.
now, finally not recognizing keys -or- starting at all. thinking this may be more of a dealer job than my indy-porsche guy? any other fixes experienced?
-will try reprogram keys 1st & then...
also... ANYONE totally do a porsche immobilizer replacement??? i planned to trek up to NorCal to have Rod Birch @ CAI update my head-unit but wondering if new alarm might be a smart update?
Last edited by 24FPS; 07-02-2015 at 10:02 PM.
#20
Drifting
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: la la land | comin' back soon nyc
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ok... just FYI. for those who may have issues in the future.
night before my drive into stealer for this snafu to explore new keys, unit or whatever it would take to clear up...
found a third DME (the taller version) in my garage & popped it in...
the immobilizer responded, car started w/o hesitation & purred to smooth idle.
all appears to be fine now.
lesson: try a 3rd DME, also do not assume it's the alternator or battery 1st.
note / problemo was: car started intermittently, then failed to respond to fobs.
bol to all who have an issue.
night before my drive into stealer for this snafu to explore new keys, unit or whatever it would take to clear up...
found a third DME (the taller version) in my garage & popped it in...
the immobilizer responded, car started w/o hesitation & purred to smooth idle.
all appears to be fine now.
lesson: try a 3rd DME, also do not assume it's the alternator or battery 1st.
note / problemo was: car started intermittently, then failed to respond to fobs.
bol to all who have an issue.
#21
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Asking so I can make a note from your experience and add it to the widely published fob programming flow chart.
Andy
#22
Just went through this
My car was at the dealer for 28 days for them to figure it out. Needed new CX control unit 993-618-159-CX and Alarm control unit 928-618-260-03 all in $2400.
Good luck
Good luck
#23
Rennlist Member
#24
I've the question without an answer...
Why did Porsche, in their infinite wisdom, design such a maddening device in the first place.
I love my '96 993. I hate it's immobilizer and never knowing if it's gonna be in the mood to start or make me screw with the fob.
There must be an easier way. A proximity transponder? You think. And a illuminated start button when signaled by the proximity transponder instead of a 1950's era ignition switch in the dark side of the steering column.
I'm just sayin.
Why did Porsche, in their infinite wisdom, design such a maddening device in the first place.
I love my '96 993. I hate it's immobilizer and never knowing if it's gonna be in the mood to start or make me screw with the fob.
There must be an easier way. A proximity transponder? You think. And a illuminated start button when signaled by the proximity transponder instead of a 1950's era ignition switch in the dark side of the steering column.
I'm just sayin.
#25
The immobilzer is pretty much useless IMO in the day and age. It was more an annoyance to me than anything else. Seems like if someone is going to steal your car they just tow it away, they don't even bother with anything else from what I heard about the cars stolen in LA. I had mine disabled and all those annoyances with the the drive block system are long gone.
#26
Rennlist Member
#27
Former Vendor
A lot of interesting stuff happening on this thread.
These electronic control units (DME, Immobilizer, Alarm and Remotes) all have their own weaknesses and flaws. It's hard and confusing to diagnose when some of the issues mentioned above happen intermittently.
From our "ECU-repair-guys-stand-point" below is our diagnostics flow-chart. This is a biased trobleshooting guide because we are computer engineers. These modules get shipped to us for diagnosis and repair and, since we never see the cars, we count on mechanics to diagnose and fix the issues in the car locally.
I mentioned this because we will not talk about "dead car batteries" for example since that should have been diagnosed locally by the mechanic.
The list below is by no means absolute or complete, and it will evolve (it's hard to remember everything in one sitting...). Also the "reasons why" some of these problems happen is a longer topic of discussion for another day.
###
Issue: Remotes do not open or close doors
Possible reason: dead remote battery, defective remote interior electronics, defective immobilizer, faulty alarm unit
Issue: Alarm goes off and cannot be turned off
Possible reason: defective immobilizer, faulty alarm unit
Issue: Intermittent no crank, no start
Possible reason: faulty DME, defective immobilizer
Issue: Alarm / Immobilizer light blinking in clock
Possible reason: DME drive lock was bypassed, immobilizer module defective
Issue: No communication to DME
Possible reason: Intermal immobilizer diag Line faulty, DME memory faulty
to be continued...
These electronic control units (DME, Immobilizer, Alarm and Remotes) all have their own weaknesses and flaws. It's hard and confusing to diagnose when some of the issues mentioned above happen intermittently.
From our "ECU-repair-guys-stand-point" below is our diagnostics flow-chart. This is a biased trobleshooting guide because we are computer engineers. These modules get shipped to us for diagnosis and repair and, since we never see the cars, we count on mechanics to diagnose and fix the issues in the car locally.
I mentioned this because we will not talk about "dead car batteries" for example since that should have been diagnosed locally by the mechanic.
The list below is by no means absolute or complete, and it will evolve (it's hard to remember everything in one sitting...). Also the "reasons why" some of these problems happen is a longer topic of discussion for another day.
###
Issue: Remotes do not open or close doors
Possible reason: dead remote battery, defective remote interior electronics, defective immobilizer, faulty alarm unit
Issue: Alarm goes off and cannot be turned off
Possible reason: defective immobilizer, faulty alarm unit
Issue: Intermittent no crank, no start
Possible reason: faulty DME, defective immobilizer
Issue: Alarm / Immobilizer light blinking in clock
Possible reason: DME drive lock was bypassed, immobilizer module defective
Issue: No communication to DME
Possible reason: Intermal immobilizer diag Line faulty, DME memory faulty
to be continued...
#28