CarreraX

Mikes points above are exactly why I think you should remove both since it is your first time. The clutch fork shaft is hard enough when out let alone still in the car. That said, it is doable. Also, I enjoy taking engines out so I'm a bit biased

RichPugh

Cosmos99 and I did his on his 1990 C2 with the Patrick Motorsport kit but he wanted to pull the motor to gain access to like 8 more things LOL. We did new headers, painted the tub tins, aluminum valve covers & gaskets, clutch hydraulic line, etc., etc. It's really not a complicated job... pretty much the same to a 993. As element said, Bolts are bolts.

Disconnect battery, remove rear bumper and rear wheels, unbolt shafts from transaxle flanges, disconnect oil line(s), pull AC compressor off and lay to side (keep the lines connected and lay it on the drivers side rear fender on a few folded beach towels or moving blankets), remove heater blower box and airbox for better access to everything else, unclip all wiring connections (you'll see where the connections on the engine and the ones in the main connection box just unplug and are all pretty idiot-proof with sizing, location and colors of plug ends, etc.), disconnect fuel line and throttle cable, unbolt shift linkage & clutch slave, unbolt 6 forward bolts and 2 rear bolts, (I mighta forgot something but it's nothing that isnt obvious)... drops out as a lump. Then, you can gain access to everything.

Age plays as much a part (if not more) than mileage for all sorts of stuff. Ignition wires, gaskets, hoses, etc. If youre gonna have a winter project, make it count! "If it ain't broke, dont fix it" is really only an ostritch's way of looking at automotive ownership. Preventative Maintenance is the key! Have we not learned anything from ObamaCare!? LOL.

Do the wires, lower valve cover gaskets (theyre gonna leak even if they arent now), timing chain cover gaskets, plugs, clean the engine bay, clean the engine including upper accessories, etc. You'll be very happy. Just remember to use correct torque specs and clean as much as possible while its out.

Sounds like a good opportunity to do RS rear suspension parts while its out too? LOL...

RichPugh

I just realized how disorganized that last pic looks LOL. All that stuff was on the other side of the garage but we slid it all behind his car so I could pull my 993 in the other side, LOL. Harbor Freight motorcycle lift with 24x24 board is like the perfect cheap 911 engine removal tool

PelicanParts.com

Nice work! Love that last picture above!
Mark/Pelican Parts

Mike J

To me, there are two levels of doing this depending on your goal:

- one is the clutch is just part of what you are trying to do
- the clutch is only what you want to get done

For the first one, clearly an engine drop may be called for. However, at a minimum, that means replacing all the fluids and doing an alignment (normally - with Tarrets for example it may not be needed).

For the second one, ideally do not drop the engine, its a waste of time and money. However, the "ideally" may be tempered if you do not have the tools nor the expertise, were it defaults back to an entire drop.

Given the OP has a 4 post lift, dropping the entire engine may require some specialized equipment, or at the very least, tables and such the would fit around the lift.

I do drop engines off my lift, and have a large rolling table that I use to place the engine and then lift the body of the car off the engine.

Even when dropping an engine, there are several ways to do it. you can elect to keep the mufflers on the car and keep the bumpers on (in fact, never understood removing the rear bumper - the engine fits fine with it in place), or strip everything off before dropping.

So the "engine vs transmission" decision depends on what needs to be replace, experience, equipment, including lift or not, and experience.

BTW, excellent writeup on dropping an engine on my site:

http://www.pcarworkshop.com/index.ph...ing_the_engine

Cheers,

Mike

IXLR8

I was wondering the same thing, but then I only have a few thousand miles more than that and I will be replacing the clutch, so you might ask me why as well.

Because I've already replaced the clutch fluid and clutch slave cylinder upon the recommendations on Rennlist to remedy the infamous "clutch grawk". Well I doubt I am the first owner where those recommendation did not solve the issue.

So it is getting everything under the sun in the clutch area replaced while I am in there. The grawk is most likely the pressure plate or clutch release fork pivot. My Honda CR-V makes the same noise, even after replacing the clutch master and slave cylinders (replaced due to high mileage).

Mike J

Soo -- you are replacing the clutch or at least taking it all apart because of some noises?

How about some Fister III's - guaranteed you will not hear any "grawk"...



Cheers,

Mike

jhg41977

This was my first DIY project on my 993. I did not have a lift. I used tall jack stands and an atv lift to help lower and raise the transmission. I also had a awd car, so a bit more effort and time required. If you have all winter, you have no need to rush. Take it slow, walk away when frustrated and you will be fine.

Where are you located?

Ed Hughes

No way would I just replace the clutch only on a car approaching 20 years of age. I'd drop the assy, and have some fun.

NC TRACKRAT

This discussion reminds me of the preface in my college calculus book: "What one fool can do, so can another". Go for it!

IXLR8

Yup and doing a few other things. I'm even replacing the chain cover seals because they weep by the end of the year. All four valve covers are still bone dry more than three years later, just by replacing the seals.

Installing a new pressure plate can make a world of difference in clutch action. I remember after replacing the clutch assembly in my first car...talk about smooth. A day & night difference.

BTW, I'm replacing it not just for the noise, but the clutch action. Hell, the clutch action on my Honda CR-V is better with almost five times the mileage.

You're right. Its also probably why polyurethane control arm bushing users don't hear them squeak either.

I already have RSR mufflers and am going stock.

Ponchobroke

I would drop the tranny only... It's fairly easy, two people helps greatly. If you leave the engine in you miss all the argrevation of fluids, removing the exhaust, pulling power, vacuum, fuel rail, engine tin, mounts, A/C, belts, etc... You also know your engine is running and oly have the mechanical to deal with. We did on jack stands at Christmas no problems... A year later we dropped engine for other reasons. I would tick o the tranny and consider a Golden Rod.

Ed Hughes

And that is precisely why you would be ill-advised to do trans only , IMO. Why not take both down at this time, to possibly avoid dropping the motor in a year for "other reasons"?

zooming993

First off, thanks for all the replies. As I suspected there are those who think I should drop the engine and others that don't think it's necessary. One thing I didn't mention in my earlier post was, I'm also planning on replacing the shocks (HD) and springs (H&R) in the near future. Replacing the suspension was going to be my winter project but now the clutch replacement is the priority. Now to answer some of your questions:

As for having to replace the clutch at 40K? I was surprised also but it's slipping and it's getting progressively worse the more I drive it. It's gotten to the point I can't get on it without it slipping.

As for my DIY experience I've done my share of DIY's on other cars I own but I have to admit I've never replaced a clutch. I have removed and replaced the motor (396 BB) and transmission (Turbo 400) in my 70 El Camino. As long as I have a good instructional book, article, manual or forum to fall back on, I'm usually ok taking on new DIY's.

RichPugh

BTW zooming993, you mention special clutch tools... just one really. Centering tool... $9. Everything else is a standard tool you probably have.

And, my 2¢, even if you only just drop the trans, pull the flywheel and replace the rear main seal at the same time. I'm not sure if you plan to simply replace the clutch or replace the flywheel and pressure plate with say a lightweight single mass RS kit... Good write ups on removing stubborn ones... definitely worth doing regardless of if its leaking or not while you have the trans off.