TorqueChap

Hey All,
Finally going to wrench my own oil changes on my car

Seeing DIYs for the 993 N.A. on this forum and didn't know whether there were any unique needs/issues/watch-outs on the Turbo? In the process of moving houses and can't find my Adrian Streather reference book.

Appreciate any and all suggestions, DIY tutorials and epiphanies.

No HTwo O

Cant's help you much, but what oil are you going to use? I'd suggest you go with the Mobil V-Twin 20W50. You'll need 10 quarts. And use Porsche OEM factory oil filters. Both of 'em. Maybe pull an oil sample and do a Blackstone UOA to get your baseline readings.

Mike J

Its not that much different - you just have to drain the catch cans on each turbo. Use only Porsche brand filters, and do not over tighten the small filter. I fill with about 7-8 quarts/litres on the oil change and then pull the DME and crank the engine over till I have oil pressure, that way I know the filters are full and things are ready to crank up (but I do this one all 993's that I service).

You can see the procedure on http://www.pcarworkshop.com

Cheers,

Mike

Texas993

Do what Mike says. And I like the Vtwin 20-50 too.

TorqueChap

@ No HTwoO - Your oil reco and point on doing a Blackstone baseline are awesome. Got their kit already and will definitely take a sample. Thank you.

@ Texas993 - thanks for seconding the Vtwin 20-50. Will definitely use it now.

@ Mike J - awesome DIY on your site. Suspect I'll be a regular there in the years to come. Thanks for the reco!

No HTwo O

DO NOT USE A 5W30 WEIGHT OIL ON AN AIL COOLED PORSCHE!

No HTwo O

Grasshopper (TorqueChap), please read:

https://rennlist.com/forums/993-turb...il-v-twin.html

TorqueChap

The Grasshopper is on it! Thanks for the heads up. First DIY oil change and glad to have started the OP to ensure that it's done right!

Thanks all! Will scoop up Vtwin 20W50 tomorrow and save the other Mobile One version for my DD.

Nurburger

TorqueChap - let's see some pictures of your car... Sounds very nice.

David in LA

factory filters, 20w-50 oil and do not overfill

bruce7

Here is my oil change procedure, not for turbo, but you can take it and modify it for your car and specifics. I tend to tweek it each time I do it. No pictures, more of a checklist.

Oil Change Procedure 911 (993)
Rev 6-11-2012

Parts List

Oil tank oil filter 993-207-201-02
Oil tank drain plug seal ring 900-123-118-30
Oil tank drain plug o-ring 999-701-269-40
Engine oil filter 993-107-203-03
Engine crankcase drain plug seal ring 900-123-118-30
Oil return tube o-rings 999-707-316-40 x 2
11 quarts oil Mobil 1 Synthetic 15w50

Tools List

3/8" torque wrench
1/2" torque wrench
wheel bolt security socket
drain pan
oil transport container
cardboard
jack stands + hockey pucks
floor jack
leather gloves
hand cleaner
paper towels
cloth rags
oil filter wrench (Sears Craftsman Universal)
stubby phillips P2 screwdriver
13mm socket
15mm box-end wrench
Torque adapter 15mm
large flat screwdriver
3/8" ratchet wrench
8" extension 3/8" drive
27mm socket
19mm socket
4" extension 1/2" drive
7mm flexible nut driver
15mm 6-point socket 3/8" drive
3/8" breaker bar
1/2" breaker bar
10mm socket 3/8" drive
Awl & hook


Oil Change Procedure 911

Getting Started

Run engine until operating temperature is reached.
Note Mileage
Open engine lid and turn off light by pressing latch down
Raise vehicle onto wood blocks

Drain Oil Tank

Remove right hand side member panel
10 mm socket + phillips P2
Loosen right rear wheel bolts
Raise car onto jack stands
Run engine to warm oil up again
Place cardboard and drain pan
Remove oil tank drain plug and drain oil
15 mm socket + breaker bar
Refit drain plug with new crush washer + o-ring
999-701-269-40
900-123-118-30
Torque drain plug 50+5 Nm

Change Oil Tank Filter

Remove right rear wheel
Remove right wheel well liner front piece
10 mm socket + phillips P2
Remove oil tank filter
filter wrench + 3/8 breaker bar
Lubricate new oil filter seal and install
993-207-201-02
Hand tighten + 1/2 turn


Drain Crankcase

Remove engine undertray
phillips P2
Remove left hand side ventilation door
Place cardboard and drain pan
Remove engine drain plug and drain oil
15mm 6-point wrench
Refit drain plug with new crush washer
900-123-118-30
Torque drain plug 42+4 Nm with torque adaptor
Refit left hand side ventilation door
7 mm flexible nut driver


Drain Oil Return Tube

Remove right hand side ventilation hose and door
7 mm flexible nut driver
Remove oil return tube bolt
13 mm 6-point socket
Place drain pan
Remove oil return tube and drain oil
Big screwdriver

Change Engine Oil Filter

Remove small oil filter
Filter wrench + 3/8 extension + 3/8 breaker bar
Lubricate new oil filter seal and install
993-107-203-03
Hand tighten + 1/2 turn
Install new o-rings on oil return tube
999-707-316-40 (2)
Refit oil return tube
13 mm 6-point socket, hand tight
Refit right hand side ventilation hose and door
7 mm flexible nut driver


Refill With Oil

Pour in 9 quarts of oil (Mobil 1 - 15w50)
Start engine and check for leaks
While running add 1-1/2 quarts more oil


Finish Up

Shut down engine
Refit wheel well liner
Refit right rear wheel
Refit engine undertray
Lower the car to wood blocks
Refit side member panel
Torque wheel bolts 130 Nm
Lower car to ground
Open engine lid latch and close engine lid
Roadtest and check oil level meter is at 3:00 o'clock when hot.

Dump drain pan into transport container
Transport used oil to a collection center

Update log

Mike J

Wow, good list. I just do it.

Guess it helps that I do many of these in a year - got lots of 993's coming through the shop.

A few additional points:

• I like to drop the oil when its hot out of the main tank - its easy with a lift, drive the car, put it on the lift, and dump
• Its your option to remove the right rear wheel - depends how comfortable you want to be. You can do it either way, but its easier with the wheel off.
• I usually remove the wheel, undo the screws holding the wheel liner in front of the filter off, undo the 10mm plastic nuts holding the rocker panel on the studs underneath, and the 10mm plastic nut holding the wheel liner in the wheel well. Peel back the liner, and undo the 10mm nut holding the rocker cover in place in the corner, and then pull the rear of the rocker cover off and bend it out of the way. You do not have to remove the entire rocker cover, and can skip this step with an S. I have a short bungee cord that I use to hold the plastic cover out of the way of the drain. I do not bother removing the entire wheel well liner - its not necessary.
• You can take this opportunity to adjust the float level for the oil level gauge if needed. I find that almost all the cars that I work on read the oil level as lower as it actually is.
• I actually will drain a spot (like the main tank), hand tighten the plug, work to the next spot (say the drain on the engine), and then go back and pull the plugs again to get out the last bit that has accumulated - then new washer and torque the plug down.
• When I drain the engine sump, I usually undo the drain plug and hold it in place with a screwdriver to control the drain volume. Once most of the oil has leaked out around the plug, then I pull the plug totally out - this saves making a big mess around the heat exchanger, where you can get a gush of oil washing over the left hand heat exchanger.
• I have never changed out the O rings on the oil feed tube to the engine, and I have had zero leaks - and that is over at least 100 oil changes. I also put down the hold down bolt more than hand tight.
• For filling, I put in 7 liters of oil, pull the DME, crank the engine over till oil pressure builds (sometimes takes 30 seconds or more), put back the DME and then complete the filling. I wrap the oil filler tube with shop rags because of the chance of spillage - its much slower to complete this with the last three liters and the chance of overfilling goes up quit a bit - need some slow pouring.

Cheers,

Mike

Norske

As a note. Refill the oil VERY SLOWLY. Too fast and it will overflow and you will have a huge mess.

Mike J

Yup, see my last point...