chris walrod

Essentially this is what happens each time lower control arm bushings are replaced. So, with this, there is a quick A to B comparison.

With these bushings, I originally set out to add toe stability to the front of the 993, nothing more. Curing the random 50mph steering wheel wobble was just a nice side effect to be honest.

What got me started on this was in 2001 I had my first (of three) 993 on an alignment rack, 'lasers' on their targets etc. I got under the car with the view to assess how bad the bump steer really was on these cars. At that time here on RL there was a lot of chatter about it. I pulled down on the car and watched the alignment targets move about, confirming a large amount of bump steer (and this was at ROW RH), it was a bit frightening considering my background in vehicle dynamics. While doing the above, I started to notice additional toe instabilities with just moderate amounts of force applied to simulate braking forces or moments about the front axle CL, which then quickly pointed to the cavity bushing as the culprit. This was on a 38k mile 993 at around 6 years of age.

Cavity bushings exist to allow compliance in at least one direction but remain stiff in others. This is an effort to smooth or filter road feel to the driver.

In developing the poly bushings I was concerned with two side effects; squeeking and providing too much road feel into the steering wheel. Fortunately neither have presented to be the case. That said, and I have said it before, there may be a time where they will squeek and require service.

IXLR8

Yes, they are reused but does the locating nub serve any purpose in the PU application? I think not.

rfemovich

The original owner of my 96 NB started to complain about steering wheel shake at 60 MPH after only 3186 miles on the car. After many complaints to the Porsche service departments and wheel balancing over the years, the shake remained. I bought the car with 14,000 miles and the shake. I put on new wheels and tires and still had the shake at 16,000 miles. This forum gave me the information I needed to find a solution. I decided to go with the Walrod bushings, inexpensive fix , easy to replace except for the grease from you know where. The result after 15 years, shake gone, the car feels solid as a rock. The best bang for the buck I could imagine.

Rick

AOW162435

Sure. The inner sleeve stays firmly in place, and the polyurethane bushing & control arm pivot on it.


Andreas

Deadeye

A secondary benefit of the polyurethane bushes is that they will be VERY easy to change the next time around. Now that I think of it, I will buy a set to have on the shelf or for the next owner.

Mark in Baltimore

Alex,

I'm all for a good element of objectivity, but you're coming across as a contrarian know-it-all who, in the face of lots of happy customers and despite the lack of any direct experience on your part, seems to enjoy undermining what most here recognize as a very fine product.

No one wants to limit your opinion, and, no, you never said the bushings were junk, but your posts seem designed to whittle away at the efficacy of Chris' offerings whether you realize it or not, whether you want to admit it or not. Sure, blow your horn. We heard you the first five times. Really we did. But when you keep on trying so hard to support your position over and over and over and over again in the same thread, I think some might find it a tad tiresome. If I were to post what I've written here half a dozen times, I think you'll find it hard to disagree that there is not much to be gained with my repetition.

IXLR8

Unfortunately Mark, repetition seems to be required on any forum...simply because I have seen the other view repeated just as many times.

Take someone asking about leaking valve covers...you know I love that one.

How many times in those threads do we have to read mis-information, because anyone posting that you need to get billet covers to end the leaking, is doing just that. Warping...really. And when you question anything like so how much did they warp by, don't hold your breath waiting for an answer.

Wanna talk about power chips next. I never did get those pre and post dyno charts.

These places sound more like an advertizing venue.

Mark in Baltimore

Alex...we're...talking...about...Walrod...bushings...here.

I made no reference to any other thread (although the tire rub thread was one that popped into my head as I was writing). Watching you try to battle that out was interesting.

So, for every post that carries a view that you don't agree with, you're going to go post-for-post and try to refute it? Okay...

Mark in Baltimore

Alex,

I'm all for a good element of objectivity, but you're coming across as a contrarian know-it-all who, in the face of lots of happy customers and despite the lack of any direct experience on your part, seems to enjoy undermining what most here recognize as a very fine product.

No one wants to limit your opinion, and, no, you never said the bushings were junk, but your posts seem designed to whittle away at the efficacy of Chris' offerings whether you realize it or not, whether you want to admit it or not. Sure, blow your horn. We heard you the first five times. Really we did. But when you keep on trying so hard to support your position over and over and over and over again in the same thread, I think some might find it a tad tiresome. If I were to post what I've written here half a dozen times, I think you'll find it hard to disagree that there is not much to be gained with my repetition.

Fünfer

I find this thread somewhat informative. Thank you all for your insight. But I still have a couple of questions. I am thinking about updating to PSS10's right now. And talking with my mechanic about changing the bushings at the same time. (I was thinking of the Walrod bushings - having read about them here many times). My mechanic said that I wouldn't need to change them - as the stock ones should still be fine (after 77k).
After reading the debate here, I am not wondering if in fact I do need new bushings. I do have a wheel wobble at less than 60mph.
I am also wondering what the difference is between rubber and PU bushings?
Is rubber more compliant? PU is firmer?
Are there any other key differences in terms of handling or durability, or even safety?

Ed Hughes

I'd venture to say that after 77k miles, let alone 135k miles, and XX years, they are well past their prime. The added cost to the PSS10 upgrade is minimal to refresh these components, no matter which version you get.

nile13

Chris, how much do we have to twist your arm to consider making these bushings for a Miata? Seriously. My autocross appliance needs better bushings. And I'm certainly not alone.

As far as 993 bushings, my biggest concern with poly set was noise. i did ask Chris specifically and his answer at the time was that they are quite and will not require constant re-lubing. In about 6 month and 4-5K miles with 7-8 autocrosses (maybe 50 long runs in total) thrown in the bushings are dead quite. Which makes it a good product in my book and for my specific application of a year-around daily driver with occasional GF autocross duty.

Granted, my comparisons are with stock bushings only on two separate cars. But this is a product that meets my needs, doesn't cost more than others (less, in fact) and thus is worth recommending to others who need control arm bushings replaced.

hchc

Mike, check out energy suspension poly bushing. They make poly bushing for a lot of applications except Porsche....I have a set on my type R and no complains, comes with nasty white grease too

nile13

I know of Energy Suspension and a few others. I just like Chris's bushings if he's willing to make them.

mongrelcat

That was me. Currently at 2 years, 10 months and 31,400 miles since installation. Car is a d/d driven year round so 6 months or so out of the year it's exposed to the wet... No issues as yet.

My shop (Tru-line, Seattle,) had the same objections. They warned me that PU would squeak. I went with my gut and am glad I did. Apparently, not all PU bushings are the same.