Any reason I can't bolt on SPASM sway bars?
03-27-2017, 09:15 AM
#32
Rennlist Member
Finally got these in yesterday. For the rear I did have have to undo the lower control arm bolt (and buy a new bolt), but otherwise that was a snap.
The front was MUCH more involved. Had to drop the entire subframe. Bought $65 in bolts alone (ones that could not be reused). I got through it, but was not for the faint of heart. It's like a snakes nest under there with the steering, coolant lines, etc. Ith was the first time I had separated a ball joint - that was a fun pop!
Still haven't gotten to test it out fully, but I think I can feel a difference. Here are the updated measurements:
Stock front sway bar - 27mm,
SPASM - 28.3mm
Rear stock 24mm
SPASM 26 mm
So not a drastic change, but again noticeable. However for the effort involved you might want to go straight to a GT3 front, which I think is 30-31ish mm. I didn't do that because it would have required a custom rear bar and new drop links all around, which added about $1000 to the project.
I'll report back on further driving results, but I am happy that I can now say I've effectively retro-fitted (or duplicated) the SPASM suspension. Car feels great!
The front was MUCH more involved. Had to drop the entire subframe. Bought $65 in bolts alone (ones that could not be reused). I got through it, but was not for the faint of heart. It's like a snakes nest under there with the steering, coolant lines, etc. Ith was the first time I had separated a ball joint - that was a fun pop!
Still haven't gotten to test it out fully, but I think I can feel a difference. Here are the updated measurements:
Stock front sway bar - 27mm,
SPASM - 28.3mm
Rear stock 24mm
SPASM 26 mm
So not a drastic change, but again noticeable. However for the effort involved you might want to go straight to a GT3 front, which I think is 30-31ish mm. I didn't do that because it would have required a custom rear bar and new drop links all around, which added about $1000 to the project.
I'll report back on further driving results, but I am happy that I can now say I've effectively retro-fitted (or duplicated) the SPASM suspension. Car feels great!
04-01-2017, 09:04 AM
#33
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Haven't had time for a back road jaunt, where I can really test it out. Around town I'd be lying if I said I could tell a difference, it feels a little stiffer but it may be the placebo effect. I also already had the lower suspension, so the effect of the bars alone may have been diluted when compared to a bone stock car and one with the full sport suspension.
One thing to note - a couple of days after I finished the install I noticed a clunking coming from my front suspension. I thought it might be the bars binding (as the manual didn't mention using any grease around the bushings). However when I checked underneath, I found the EVERY BOLT on the front sub-frame had backed off to HAND TIGHT! I couldn't believe it! I even bought brand new bolts as the book described and tightened to the angle torque specified. I was flabbergasted. I ended up liberally applying blue locktite on all of the and re-torquing. So far so good. Still don't understand how that happened, and so quick (3 days of moderate driving, I live 10 min from work).
One thing to note - a couple of days after I finished the install I noticed a clunking coming from my front suspension. I thought it might be the bars binding (as the manual didn't mention using any grease around the bushings). However when I checked underneath, I found the EVERY BOLT on the front sub-frame had backed off to HAND TIGHT! I couldn't believe it! I even bought brand new bolts as the book described and tightened to the angle torque specified. I was flabbergasted. I ended up liberally applying blue locktite on all of the and re-torquing. So far so good. Still don't understand how that happened, and so quick (3 days of moderate driving, I live 10 min from work).
04-01-2017, 12:26 PM
#34
Burning Brakes
Finally got these in yesterday. For the rear I did have have to undo the lower control arm bolt (and buy a new bolt), but otherwise that was a snap.
The front was MUCH more involved. Had to drop the entire subframe. Bought $65 in bolts alone (ones that could not be reused). I got through it, but was not for the faint of heart. It's like a snakes nest under there with the steering, coolant lines, etc. Ith was the first time I had separated a ball joint - that was a fun pop!
Still haven't gotten to test it out fully, but I think I can feel a difference. Here are the updated measurements:
Stock front sway bar - 27mm,
SPASM - 28.3mm
Rear stock 24mm
SPASM 26 mm
So not a drastic change, but again noticeable. However for the effort involved you might want to go straight to a GT3 front, which I think is 30-31ish mm. I didn't do that because it would have required a custom rear bar and new drop links all around, which added about $1000 to the project.
I'll report back on further driving results, but I am happy that I can now say I've effectively retro-fitted (or duplicated) the SPASM suspension. Car feels great!
The front was MUCH more involved. Had to drop the entire subframe. Bought $65 in bolts alone (ones that could not be reused). I got through it, but was not for the faint of heart. It's like a snakes nest under there with the steering, coolant lines, etc. Ith was the first time I had separated a ball joint - that was a fun pop!
Still haven't gotten to test it out fully, but I think I can feel a difference. Here are the updated measurements:
Stock front sway bar - 27mm,
SPASM - 28.3mm
Rear stock 24mm
SPASM 26 mm
So not a drastic change, but again noticeable. However for the effort involved you might want to go straight to a GT3 front, which I think is 30-31ish mm. I didn't do that because it would have required a custom rear bar and new drop links all around, which added about $1000 to the project.
I'll report back on further driving results, but I am happy that I can now say I've effectively retro-fitted (or duplicated) the SPASM suspension. Car feels great!
I agree -- need more DIY'ers but that will happen over time... many of these cars are still under warranty and I understand most guys just don't want to mess with 'em.Cheers!
04-02-2017, 02:55 PM
#36
Burning Brakes
While the diameter increase of your new anti-roll bars ahs increased by that much, the stiffness of the bars increases by the fourth power of the diameter. So, based on your measurements, your new front bar is 21% stiffer than before and the rear bar is 38% stiffer.
You should feel that and the change will also reduce understeer.
You should feel that and the change will also reduce understeer.
04-09-2017, 10:32 PM
#38
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Ok had my first real drive this weekend, and YES the new sway bars make a difference. I would definitely do this again. My buddy following me said my car was incredibly flat through the turns. It's an amazing car to drive! Can't imagine needing something faster.
I will say again I had the suspension drop, so the bars alone may not have delivered the same impact. But the fact that they are plug and play are nice
I will say again I had the suspension drop, so the bars alone may not have delivered the same impact. But the fact that they are plug and play are nice
05-15-2018, 03:25 PM
#39
Rennlist Member
sorry to resurrect........were the same links used or did new ones need to be ordered along with the bars themselves?
have any other owners done this same mod?
thanks in advance,
have any other owners done this same mod?
thanks in advance,