Brake in a straight line.....
05-12-2014, 11:42 PM
#3
If you are looking for an overview, here are the steps I use from memory:
1. I jack up the left side of the car and remove the rear wheel.
2. Then I remove the brake caliper by removing the two bolts holding it on using a torx (an 8 I think). I use a piece of wire to hold the caliper up so it is not hanging from the brake line
3. There is one more flush mount Phillips screw to remove the rotor. It comes right off, as long as you don't have the parking brake on. Don't ask how I know this... ;-)
4. I replace the rotor. I don't believe there are any torque specs for the rotor screw, but the screw should be replaced with the rotor. Three came off easily, one was a PITA, but came off after I tapped a screwdriver into the screw with a hammer and really cranked on it.
5. Then I use pad spreaders to push the pistons back into the calipers while the old pads are still installed. Then I replace the pads, it is pretty easy.
6. I chose not to re-install the brake pad wear sensors, as I measure the pads after each event to keep track of the wear.
7. Then I put the calipers back on, and replace the two large bolts per Porsche's recommendation and torque to 53 ft/lbs (I think, but can check). CORRECTION: 63 ft/lbs
8. Then I bleed the calipers, outside first then the inside, and put the wheel back on.
After I complete all the wheels, I bed the brake pads which helps with brake performance and noise. Especially with the Pagid track pads I am using now. Hope that helps!
1. I jack up the left side of the car and remove the rear wheel.
2. Then I remove the brake caliper by removing the two bolts holding it on using a torx (an 8 I think). I use a piece of wire to hold the caliper up so it is not hanging from the brake line
3. There is one more flush mount Phillips screw to remove the rotor. It comes right off, as long as you don't have the parking brake on. Don't ask how I know this... ;-)
4. I replace the rotor. I don't believe there are any torque specs for the rotor screw, but the screw should be replaced with the rotor. Three came off easily, one was a PITA, but came off after I tapped a screwdriver into the screw with a hammer and really cranked on it.
5. Then I use pad spreaders to push the pistons back into the calipers while the old pads are still installed. Then I replace the pads, it is pretty easy.
6. I chose not to re-install the brake pad wear sensors, as I measure the pads after each event to keep track of the wear.
7. Then I put the calipers back on, and replace the two large bolts per Porsche's recommendation and torque to 53 ft/lbs (I think, but can check). CORRECTION: 63 ft/lbs
8. Then I bleed the calipers, outside first then the inside, and put the wheel back on.
After I complete all the wheels, I bed the brake pads which helps with brake performance and noise. Especially with the Pagid track pads I am using now. Hope that helps!
Last edited by John's 991; 05-13-2014 at 07:14 PM.
05-13-2014, 12:58 AM
#4
When I see "brake in a straight line" I think yes, that's how you do it. Turning even slightly transfers weight off the inside wheel losing traction so you always maximize braking in a straight line.
But then I see a question asking about changing pads and rotors. Talk about segue, from a driving question to diy how-to? Which makes me think the two are somehow related, as in, the car is pulling to one side or the other under braking.
Finally I realize, you know, its possible to ask questions people can answer yet do absolutely no good because nobody has a clue what the guy really needs to know.
And there we are.
But then I see a question asking about changing pads and rotors. Talk about segue, from a driving question to diy how-to? Which makes me think the two are somehow related, as in, the car is pulling to one side or the other under braking.
Finally I realize, you know, its possible to ask questions people can answer yet do absolutely no good because nobody has a clue what the guy really needs to know.
And there we are.
05-13-2014, 05:44 PM
#5
Rennlist Member
Second John's advice above, only to add the Torx for the caliper carrier bolts is a 55. Standard brake tool on most chevies :-0.
Also, there is a rumor you must replace the carrier bolts each time you change pads. According to the two techs I spoke to about this, it is untrue. One showed me the printout from the manual on changing pads and it did not mention replacing the bolts.
Lastly, John's 991, can you confirm it's 53 ft/lbs? I've yet to find that spec (it's not in the manual) and I forgot it from when I spoke to the tech. Thanks.
Also, there is a rumor you must replace the carrier bolts each time you change pads. According to the two techs I spoke to about this, it is untrue. One showed me the printout from the manual on changing pads and it did not mention replacing the bolts.
Lastly, John's 991, can you confirm it's 53 ft/lbs? I've yet to find that spec (it's not in the manual) and I forgot it from when I spoke to the tech. Thanks.
05-13-2014, 06:48 PM
#6
Track Day
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Thank you John. I was hoping to gauge whether my previous experience would serve me well in attempting to change THESE brakes. The dealer specified that the pads and rotors should both be changed together.
I did not want to dissasemble them and realize the dealer would have been the best option.
I did not want to dissasemble them and realize the dealer would have been the best option.
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05-13-2014, 06:57 PM
#8
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05-13-2014, 07:05 PM
#9
Hi Dubloh,
Glad that helped, and the rotors and pads do not need to be changed together. I went through 3 sets of OEM pads, then changed the rotors and went with Pagid pads. The rotors were in bad shape by the time I changed them (shuddered a lot), but still stopped fine.
There was not a material difference in complexity from changing the pads on my earlier E36 M3 and my new 991S. The calipers are HUGE by comparison, and I am using a multi-piston pad spreader but other than that it is more of the same. You also have to remember to bleed both the inside and outside of the calipers.
008, thanks for the update on changing the caliper bolts. Suncoast, where I get my parts, recommends it, but it seemed like overkill. They are some serious bolts, and can't imagine they would stretch. Maybe I will change them with the rotors but not the pads (I expect to get two sets of pads per rotor, as the Pagid's seem to be lasting 3-4 longer than the OEM).
The info came from another DIY post on Rennlist, and it is 63 ft/lbs of torque, which is the same as a 997.2 supposedly. The first time I changed the pads, I "tightened them" the second and subsequent times I torqued them as I did not have that info the first time. Nothing bad seemed to happen, but I prefer to be precise when I can.
Glad that helped, and the rotors and pads do not need to be changed together. I went through 3 sets of OEM pads, then changed the rotors and went with Pagid pads. The rotors were in bad shape by the time I changed them (shuddered a lot), but still stopped fine.
There was not a material difference in complexity from changing the pads on my earlier E36 M3 and my new 991S. The calipers are HUGE by comparison, and I am using a multi-piston pad spreader but other than that it is more of the same. You also have to remember to bleed both the inside and outside of the calipers.
008, thanks for the update on changing the caliper bolts. Suncoast, where I get my parts, recommends it, but it seemed like overkill. They are some serious bolts, and can't imagine they would stretch. Maybe I will change them with the rotors but not the pads (I expect to get two sets of pads per rotor, as the Pagid's seem to be lasting 3-4 longer than the OEM).
The info came from another DIY post on Rennlist, and it is 63 ft/lbs of torque, which is the same as a 997.2 supposedly. The first time I changed the pads, I "tightened them" the second and subsequent times I torqued them as I did not have that info the first time. Nothing bad seemed to happen, but I prefer to be precise when I can.
Last edited by John's 991; 05-13-2014 at 08:25 PM.
05-13-2014, 07:25 PM
#10
Rennlist Member
Agreed, thanks John. I've swapped pads a couple of times now and would prefer to torque properly but I'm sure the first time I broke them free they were on a lot more than 63 ftlbs from the factory!
05-13-2014, 08:00 PM
#11
Burning Brakes
The question by itself was simple. In context of the thread title, perhaps not so clear.
05-13-2014, 10:51 PM
#14
Burning Brakes
Just good sport, nothing more. Seems to me the forum has gotten a bit stale of late - much to the point of the other thread about 911s being totally awful, where the OP was just trying to get a rise out of someone, anyone, but to no avail. Some just didn't get it, others didn't bite. Perhaps some energetic but civil banter will liven things up!
I also frequent the Macan forum...not a lot going on there, but then again the cars are just starting to hit the streets, so most can only speculate and the rest have but a few days of experience to draw from. Cayenne forum has a lot of technical discussion, but I think that is helped by the fact that all generations of Cayenne are lumped into one group while 911 discussion gets spread over several separate fora.
Carry on, and I hope your brake job is a success (no matter what prompted it
)
I also frequent the Macan forum...not a lot going on there, but then again the cars are just starting to hit the streets, so most can only speculate and the rest have but a few days of experience to draw from. Cayenne forum has a lot of technical discussion, but I think that is helped by the fact that all generations of Cayenne are lumped into one group while 911 discussion gets spread over several separate fora.
Carry on, and I hope your brake job is a success (no matter what prompted it
)
