Money2536

Yeah, I've experience the same issue when I was auto AutoGeek for Mike Phillip's paint correction seminar. The are not very well constructed despite being designed specifically for the machine. It looks as though the designed them on a CAD system with little to no experience on the real world results. I've stuck with my Meguiar's MF and Uber Foam pads.

Money2536

I have the week off, so I figure it's a good time to get the 911 dialed in. We have a new baby coming in a few weeks, and my M3 will be here shortly after. It takes a solid day and half worth of work, so I want the 911 good for 6 months or so. I'm going to be preoccupied with my two new babies.

Since my Journal has been getting a little stale, I thought I'd put in the extra effort and make a step-by-step of my normal detail process. I usually do this around every 8-9 months on my cars. It typically takes about 16 hours, give or take a few.

I have had my Auto Finesse Desire Carnuba Wax sitting in the cabinet for a few months. I decided to give it a try over my original plan which was Swissvax Concorso. I bought the Desire on sale for half the cost of Concorso. I've always chickened out buying an expensive wax. I pulled the trigger. I'm interested to see if I like it any better than the $12 Collinite 845 that I love so much.

So here we go. I got started at about 8:30 AM. I try to beat the sun in the morning. I have some oak trees that provide shade until about 11:00 AM, but I do have to move the car around the driveway a bit to make sure I stay in the shade.

First step is to get everything set-up. I pull the hose out, get the pressure washer set-up, and prepare my foam cannon. I loaded the cannon with 50% Chemical Guys Citrus Wash/Water and 50% Adam's APC/Water.









I took some photos to show you guys that my car does indeed get dirty. Here's the proof:







Next I obviously need to pull the car out. I can never resist getting a start-up video with the AWE exhaust. It just sounds angry, even cold. Notice the awesomeness of A Perfect Circle in the background. I promise, I wasn't trying to be cool.


Even dirty, I love this thing!



I did my normal wheel, tire, fender wells, and exhaust cleaning. Then I sprayed the car down with the pressure washer. I needed to move the car to get it back in the shade.





Next it's time to foam the car. The Chemical Guys Citrus Red/Adam's APC Combo should help to strip off some of the wax/sealant that's on the car. I had Menzerna Powerlock topped with two layered coats of Collinite 845.







I let the foam sit and run off the car while I prepped my washing buckets.







I hit the car again with the remaining solution in the foam cannon.





















Fill the buckets.



Wipe the car down with two bucket method. Sorry, I didn't have an assistant today to help me with the photos.



Rinse.



I always blow the car off prior to Decon. I feel like I get a little more concentrated Iron Out if I blow off the excess water. I don't worry about getting it all off. Just the heavy stuff.



I don't spray the wheels, but I hit everything else. Don't let this stuff dry and make sure to spray it outdoors. It is nasty. The purpose is to get the iron off that is imbedded in the clear coat. I spray it on the entire car, windows included, and the wipe it in gently with a rag. Let it sit for 5 minutes of so. You'll see purple streaks as it chemically breaks down the iron.



Even my super clean car has some iron in it.





Get this stuff off. I pressure wash it off after.



I sprayed the rotors with Hyde's.





Next I blow off the entire car and wheels, making sure to get the excess Hyde's off the wheels.

Then I did the pulling back and forth with the brake pedal depressed to help further with rotors rusting over.


Next, I dry the car off. I don't use a detail spray like normal, because I'm going to Auto Scrub the car.



I forgot to pull the plate off prior to washing.





Next is Auto Scrub. I have the wash mitt, but I don't like it very much. It doesn't work as well as the pad for the orbital and the little sponge for the tight areas. I only use the FINE version.





I ran out of Glide. So I whipped up some Optimum No Rinse. My Adam's detail spray is a bit expensive to use as a lube. Add about 75ml to a 1200ml spray bottle.







Here is a video using the Auto Scrub on my old Griot's 6" orbital. I use it on Speed Setting 4. The Auto Scrub direction say to use it on Speed 1, but that is useless. Make sure to break a new pad in on the glass prior to paint. If I wasn't making a video, I would spray about 1/3 of the car down with lube, and knock it out.

Money2536

After the Auto Scrub, I clean and dry all of the door jams, engine bay, trunk, etc.



Then I blow the car off once more to get the lube out of the cracks. The vibration from the orbital shakes the water loose, getting my pads all wet. I don't like using more pad the necessary, since they take some time to clean.



Watching Eastbound and Down during this detail. Kenny Powers approves.



Time to tape. I tape anything where there is rubber or plastic. Make sure you get the headlights really good. Polishing will take the clear coat right off causing them to haze prematurely. It took me forever to put together a decent grouping of automotive tape. I had to order from several different companies on Amazon to get all of these sizes.













Polishing tools. Griot's 3", Rupes LH21, Rupes Duetto. Uber Foam Pads 4", 5", 6." Menzerna SF4500.

























I made a polishing video. As always, feel free to make jokes. This video has inspired me to stop eating for the foreseeable future. I probably shouldn't have a Rogue Fitness shirt on...


Polishing takes a good four or five hours to do it right, so be prepared. After polishing, it's time to wash the car again. This time I'm using my normal Adam's.









After blowing off the car, I dry it using Menzerna Top Inspection rather than a detail spray. This is a post polish, pre wax cleanser. Just spray it on while you are drying the car and wipe it off.



I took a two hour break and hit the gym (after seeing myself in the video). When I got back, I wasn't happy with the feel of the paint, so I wiped it down with 30% diluted IPA. Then I broke out the expensive stuff. I put a thin lay on the entire car then wiped it off. I think you can do a wipe on/wipe off process with this wax, but I let it sit for a few minutes to be safe. I'll let it cure over night and then add another layer.







I hit the door Jams with some Sonax PNS.





At 10:30 PM I finished removing the first layer of wax. That's a solid 12 hours of work with a two hour break. You have to be committed if you want to be a detailer.

MJBird993

Comments:

a) you are nuts spending this much time "washing" your car. But there are worse obsessions.
2) all of these pictures crashed my browser
iii) video is unavailable
D) thanks for the idea (Hyde's Rustopper) but I'm guessing that it doesn't work so well, otherwise why run the car back and forth, applying the brakes?
five) nice job. Car looks good.

Oh - and I love your driveway!

Money2536

...

jlanka

Wow. I realize now how much I have to learn.

Porsche_nuts

Nice job detailing. You are certainly more obsessed than me and I surrender to you !

Question though - why do you rewash the car after you have polished it. When I polish, I throw wax on it and buff it out right afterwards without re-washing it.

Also, any final pics of the car with the "expensive wax" on it? How do you like it compared with other waxes you have used.

Great job and pics BTW.

Money2536

After the polish, there is dust from the abrasives breaking down all over the car. Also, there are oils on the paint that could hurt the wax's ability to bond with the paint.

I have to put another coat on this morning. The wax sure does smell good and goes on easily. That is the extent of what I know right now. I'll have more to say after I get it out in the sun and test it out in the rain.

Money2536

This morning I got out in the garage to finish up. I needed about 3 more hours to finish. I needed to layer on the 2nd coat of wax. Here is a video explaining the waxing process.


After finishing up the wax, I always treat the trim. I cut out a small piece of microfiber. I use gloves for this stuff.









There is no science to this. Wipe it on, then wipe excess gently with a microfiber towel. I really like this stuff for the trim. It lasts a long time.







I did the black plastic in the engine lid. I didn't do the frunk plastic. I already have that treated with Sonax Polymer Net Shield.







It's time to do the windows. I made a video of this process.










Treat the tires.



I vacuumed the interior and wiped it down. That took about 5 minutes.

DONE! The total process this time was about 15 hours.

991999R

you are a nut. i think the thread should be a sticky. i have yet to see as detailed and informative a process as this

Eurotrio

Wish I had that much time!

THPorsche

damn and my wife said I am crazy to spend two hours to wash the car.

Great job!

BlackBeauty

Matt, unbelievable presentation!! Thank you for taking the time to do that!!

Dumb question, for trim it looks like you're using Wolf's and PNS. Are you also using VRT? I just got VRT and was planning on using that for the tires and trim, but maybe that's not the right approach? I've been using Sonax's Plastic Restorer Gel on the rear valiance (waxing error) and finally after like 9 applications it's doing it's job (hence the VRT acquisition).

Money2536

Wolf's lasts a lot longer than VRT. I only use VRT on the tires. I'm actually going to switch to Optimum Pearl, but I'm trying to use up the rest of my supply.

So I use:

VRT on tires.
Wolf's on the window trim, rubber on the roof, black plastic on the engine lid.
Sonax PNS on the large amount of plastic in the frunk.

Wolf's does better on the areas that are exposed to the elements. It's lasts a good 9 months.

Money2536

Yeah, I'm supposed to be at the beach. I left her there. She's pretty cool about my detailing.