GT3 Tools and Gear
#196
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
I've resorted to asking my wife. I don't know of a good tool for it.
#197
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To my surprise, when jacking from the rear jackpoint alone, the weight of the car transferred to the opposite side front wheel was enough to immobilize the steering while breaking or tightening the nut on the raised wheel without any other restraint, as long as I kept the handle of the wrench exactly in the same plane as the tire when I applied rotational force. I've changed my tires 5 or 6 times now and never had a problem using this method. If you put the car on a lift or jack stands to have all 4 wheels off the ground before removing the wheels, then obviously this won't work, but since I don't have a lift and have always changed my wheels this way (one side at a time) even with my old air-cooled cars, it seemed natural to try it that way. If you want all 4 wheels removed at the same time, you might need a helper to immobilize the steering wheel, or get creative with a way to lock the steering. I haven't needed to do that yet.
YMMV,
TT
#198
I had read all the threads on changing wheels w/ centerlocks before I tried it the first time, and had the same concern about the front wheel turning when breaking or tightening the nut. I was prepared to try lashing the steering wheel with a Club or a rope around the spokes or something before calling on the wife to help hold it as a last resort, but then I thought about just jacking one side of the car at a time and allowing the opposite front wheel to resist the turning moment from the friction of still being on the ground. I figured I could always use a wooden wedge between the tire and the ground to help keep it from turning if necessary.
To my surprise, when jacking from the rear jackpoint alone, the weight of the car transferred to the opposite side front wheel was enough to immobilize the steering while breaking or tightening the nut on the raised wheel without any other restraint, as long as I kept the handle of the wrench exactly in the same plane as the tire when I applied rotational force. I've changed my tires 5 or 6 times now and never had a problem using this method. If you put the car on a lift or jack stands to have all 4 wheels off the ground before removing the wheels, then obviously this won't work, but since I don't have a lift and have always changed my wheels this way (one side at a time) even with my old air-cooled cars, it seemed natural to try it that way. If you want all 4 wheels removed at the same time, you might need a helper to immobilize the steering wheel, or get creative with a way to lock the steering. I haven't needed to do that yet.
YMMV,
TT
To my surprise, when jacking from the rear jackpoint alone, the weight of the car transferred to the opposite side front wheel was enough to immobilize the steering while breaking or tightening the nut on the raised wheel without any other restraint, as long as I kept the handle of the wrench exactly in the same plane as the tire when I applied rotational force. I've changed my tires 5 or 6 times now and never had a problem using this method. If you put the car on a lift or jack stands to have all 4 wheels off the ground before removing the wheels, then obviously this won't work, but since I don't have a lift and have always changed my wheels this way (one side at a time) even with my old air-cooled cars, it seemed natural to try it that way. If you want all 4 wheels removed at the same time, you might need a helper to immobilize the steering wheel, or get creative with a way to lock the steering. I haven't needed to do that yet.
YMMV,
TT
#199
Burning Brakes
I've found the most useful tool to be a willing wife and studying You Tube Videos prior to starting.
The tool works much better after promising to take it out to Dinner after completion.
1. Jack GT3 up on one side at rear until front wheel clears ground.
2. Start engine and use wife to depress brake pedal.
3. Use 36" Breaker Bar to loosen F & R Centerlocks.
4. Remove Wheels. Clean, Check and inspect
5. Regrease with Optimoly after Inspecting Wheels, Hubs. Rotors, Calipers and Pads
6. Replace Wheels and install Centerlocks Hand tight.
7. Start engine and call Wife depress Brake Pedal. (Expect some resistance to 2nd Call, ie AGAIN!!!)
8. Torque Both Centerlocks with Breaker Bar followed by Calibrated Torque Wrench, Loosen, and Repeat.
Repeat procedure on the other side of the car after promising a 2nd Restaurant dinner the following week.
I have found the Wife Tool works better than the "Clamp" after sufficient inducements have been used.
The tool works much better after promising to take it out to Dinner after completion.
1. Jack GT3 up on one side at rear until front wheel clears ground.
2. Start engine and use wife to depress brake pedal.
3. Use 36" Breaker Bar to loosen F & R Centerlocks.
4. Remove Wheels. Clean, Check and inspect
5. Regrease with Optimoly after Inspecting Wheels, Hubs. Rotors, Calipers and Pads
6. Replace Wheels and install Centerlocks Hand tight.
7. Start engine and call Wife depress Brake Pedal. (Expect some resistance to 2nd Call, ie AGAIN!!!)
8. Torque Both Centerlocks with Breaker Bar followed by Calibrated Torque Wrench, Loosen, and Repeat.
Repeat procedure on the other side of the car after promising a 2nd Restaurant dinner the following week.
I have found the Wife Tool works better than the "Clamp" after sufficient inducements have been used.
#200
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One important safety step I would add to your procedure list:
9. When replacing center caps after final torque, check that the spring-loaded locking mechanism is fully engaged and flush with the outer face of the centerlock nut. If not, depress, twist, and jiggle it as necessary with the back side of the center cap removal tool, or the square end of a 1/2" drive extension bar, until it pops out fully flush.
I've found that they mostly pop out and engage fine on their own when the centerlock socket is removed, but sometimes one or even two will "stick" in the splined center bore and have to be "massaged" out.
YMMV,
TT
#201
Burning Brakes
That's pretty hilarious, but I don't know, Fastlane--that's a fairly expensive tool when you compare two dinners out for each wheel change to $27 for a clamp that will work for an almost infinite number of swaps and not give you any lip about it.
One important safety step I would add to your procedure list:
9. When replacing center caps after final torque, check that the spring-loaded locking mechanism is fully engaged and flush with the outer face of the centerlock nut. If not, depress, twist, and jiggle it as necessary with the back side of the center cap removal tool, or the square end of a 1/2" drive extension bar, until it pops out fully flush.
I've found that they mostly pop out and engage fine on their own when the centerlock socket is removed, but sometimes one or even two will "stick" in the splined center bore and have to be "massaged" out.
YMMV,
TT
One important safety step I would add to your procedure list:
9. When replacing center caps after final torque, check that the spring-loaded locking mechanism is fully engaged and flush with the outer face of the centerlock nut. If not, depress, twist, and jiggle it as necessary with the back side of the center cap removal tool, or the square end of a 1/2" drive extension bar, until it pops out fully flush.
I've found that they mostly pop out and engage fine on their own when the centerlock socket is removed, but sometimes one or even two will "stick" in the splined center bore and have to be "massaged" out.
YMMV,
TT
Thanks for adding 9. and the use of the small CenterCap / Lock-Jiggering Tool
packed inside the Central Socket Tool. Locking of the Central Nut is essential
for safety to prevent the Central Nut from Loosening.
#202
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#203
Burning Brakes
Funny unless wife tool becomes ex-wife tool. Ex-wife tool is especially effective at removing any vehicle equipped with centerlock wheels from your possession or converting centerlock wheel vehicle into 4 lug vehicle (often in the form of 90's vintage Honda or equivalent).