Knock Sensor 1 Check engine light
#1
6th Gear
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Location: New Jersey
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Knock Sensor 1 Check engine light
Hi,
My check engine light came on and the code is 1 1 3 1 for knock sensor 1. I do not notice anything different with the car (I read other threads where people say the idling is terrible but mine is fine). What do you suggest I do? I was thinking about resetting the check engine light and see if is triggered again but I do not even know how to do that. Any ideas?
Thank you
My check engine light came on and the code is 1 1 3 1 for knock sensor 1. I do not notice anything different with the car (I read other threads where people say the idling is terrible but mine is fine). What do you suggest I do? I was thinking about resetting the check engine light and see if is triggered again but I do not even know how to do that. Any ideas?
Thank you
#5
Rennlist Member
I just replaced knock sensor #2, no driability issues, it only comes into play if the engine encounters a "knock" situation, I understand. So you probably wouldn't notice anything. But, yeah, clear the code and see if it reoccurs.
#7
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I cleared the code and the check engine light came back on a few days later with the same code for knock sensor 1. Not sure what to do next. Any advice?
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#8
Rennlist Member
Sounds like time for a new knock sensor. Got a good price on mine from Scottsdale Porsche, also Sunset is a good place. Be sure to order the install bolt as well, its a one-and-done bolt.
It is something you can replace yourself if you have backwards-bending fingers.
It is something you can replace yourself if you have backwards-bending fingers.
#9
Drifting
Codes kinda tell you what to look for but not nessesarily the problem. We will assume you have tier 1 premium in the tank....(if you don't, you should.) have you ever looked at the cam chain teeth?
Two cases.
Bad part.
Your knocking.
If you have some loose change, replace both knock sensors. Good time for new intake gaskets, aos seals and a RTV swirl on the rear upper balance seal.
OR...you could get the durametric cable with the adapter and see what conditions are making the car knock...if it is a mechanical thing. Josh/rouge may still have the software and the good cables are available from the UK.
Two cases.
Bad part.
Your knocking.
If you have some loose change, replace both knock sensors. Good time for new intake gaskets, aos seals and a RTV swirl on the rear upper balance seal.
OR...you could get the durametric cable with the adapter and see what conditions are making the car knock...if it is a mechanical thing. Josh/rouge may still have the software and the good cables are available from the UK.
#10
Racer
Just replaced mine a month ago with the CODE. Took 10 minutes with a universal on a 13mm socket. Used a cable claw thingy to hold the new one in position while I lined up the bolt.
#11
Rennlist Member
Yeah, the front one looks a lot easier. Took me about 45 min to do the back one, didn't have the cable-claw-thingy tool so it was a lot more frustrating. Thus the finger-bending routine.