Wheel?
02-12-2017, 08:45 PM
#16
Rennlist Member
02-12-2017, 09:20 PM
#17
02-12-2017, 09:36 PM
#18
Registered User
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by chudson
+1
Jerry, if they have the 965 362 xxx xx part number on the rear and the Porsche "triangle" then they are OE. If not they are repos
Very nice refinish work
Jerry, if they have the 965 362 xxx xx part number on the rear and the Porsche "triangle" then they are OE. If not they are repos
Very nice refinish work
02-12-2017, 09:49 PM
#19
Rennlist Member
Well, I've had probably 15 sets of 968 wheels over the years and they've all had numbers.
02-12-2017, 11:35 PM
#20
Rennlist Member
Sand wheel smooth.
Fill imperfections with bondo or some automotive filler.
Re-sand smooth
Clean wheel.
Paint with sandable primer.
Wet Sand wheel smooth with 600 grit.
Clean wheel
Paint with Wurth silver wheel paint. Available at Autogeek. Let dry for an hour or 2.
Do not sand silver coat.
Go straight to clear coat. Trick is putting it on thick without it running. Give an hour between coats, do 3-4 coats.
Have good lighting so you can see if the clear is going on smooth. The last clear coat try and lay it on thick, if it looks smooth and wet it will dry that way and you won't have to do any or very little wet sanding and polishing.
The wheels in the pics dried like that with no polishing.
I use Krylon crystal clear uv resistant. Available at Michaels craft store. Works great and dries fast, doesn't run too easily. I used it on my last cup 1 job and it dries hard, especially after a few heat cycles, and it won't yellow over time.
I like to do back side first then tape holes and do front side last.
Take your time, BE PATIENT and attention to detail.
Fill imperfections with bondo or some automotive filler.
Re-sand smooth
Clean wheel.
Paint with sandable primer.
Wet Sand wheel smooth with 600 grit.
Clean wheel
Paint with Wurth silver wheel paint. Available at Autogeek. Let dry for an hour or 2.
Do not sand silver coat.
Go straight to clear coat. Trick is putting it on thick without it running. Give an hour between coats, do 3-4 coats.
Have good lighting so you can see if the clear is going on smooth. The last clear coat try and lay it on thick, if it looks smooth and wet it will dry that way and you won't have to do any or very little wet sanding and polishing.
The wheels in the pics dried like that with no polishing.
I use Krylon crystal clear uv resistant. Available at Michaels craft store. Works great and dries fast, doesn't run too easily. I used it on my last cup 1 job and it dries hard, especially after a few heat cycles, and it won't yellow over time.
I like to do back side first then tape holes and do front side last.
Take your time, BE PATIENT and attention to detail.
You didn’t strip the wheels? I was thinking of using Aircraft Remover to strip the wheel and clean the grim off, then power wash them clean before a light sanding smooth, filler and more sanding. If sanding alone is enough prep I wouldn’t mind skipping the paint remover. I have an etching primer and Wurth Silver wheel paint. I also have Wurth clear coat but have since read some poor reviews and lots of opinions on the various clear coats out there. I think I’ll pick up a couple cans of the Krylon since it has been worked for you.
02-12-2017, 11:44 PM
#21
Registered User
Thread Starter
Thanks for the write-up.
You didn’t strip the wheels? I was thinking of using Aircraft Remover to strip the wheel and clean the grim off, then power wash them clean before a light sanding smooth, filler and more sanding. If sanding alone is enough prep I wouldn’t mind skipping the paint remover. I have an etching primer and Wurth Silver wheel paint. I also have Wurth clear coat but have since read some poor reviews and lots of opinions on the various clear coats out there. I think I’ll pick up a couple cans of the Krylon since it has been worked for you.
You didn’t strip the wheels? I was thinking of using Aircraft Remover to strip the wheel and clean the grim off, then power wash them clean before a light sanding smooth, filler and more sanding. If sanding alone is enough prep I wouldn’t mind skipping the paint remover. I have an etching primer and Wurth Silver wheel paint. I also have Wurth clear coat but have since read some poor reviews and lots of opinions on the various clear coats out there. I think I’ll pick up a couple cans of the Krylon since it has been worked for you.
02-13-2017, 07:04 PM
#22
Rennlist Member
No all you have to do is just sand them down. You don't even have to go down to the metal. I have used Aircraft remover before and its a nightmare! It leaves big globs of old paint that you then have to scrape off and it will burn the crap out of your skin if you get it on you.
02-13-2017, 07:25 PM
#23
Rennlist Member
Jerry,
Those wheels look great! I also remember your valve cover & injector cover looking like new. Did you use the Wurth paint on the engine stuff? or what did you use on that stuff. I recently had the valve/cam cover bead blasted with the injector cover and they look great but wondered what to put on them to keep them looking great.
On another local board some people recommended spraying with Gibbs Brand??
Bought a couple cans of Gibbs but have not done it yet.
Those wheels look great! I also remember your valve cover & injector cover looking like new. Did you use the Wurth paint on the engine stuff? or what did you use on that stuff. I recently had the valve/cam cover bead blasted with the injector cover and they look great but wondered what to put on them to keep them looking great.
On another local board some people recommended spraying with Gibbs Brand??
Bought a couple cans of Gibbs but have not done it yet.
02-13-2017, 07:39 PM
#24
Registered User
Thread Starter
For the cam cover and injector cover I used VHT silver and VHT clear. The cam cover paint still gets a little soft when hot so I don't know how the VHT is going to hold up over time.
02-13-2017, 08:39 PM
#25
Drifting
Thanks for this, may try it with my old cup II factory rims, that have been painted 2x already. Was going to get them professionally re-done for about 1400 bux, but would be willing to give this a shot for under 100 and my time. Agree patience is the key and being thorough with the sanding and prep.
The Cup I wheels I have now are also ratty, but I can't decide which I like better, the Cup I or Cup IIs! 1st world problems eh?
The Cup I wheels I have now are also ratty, but I can't decide which I like better, the Cup I or Cup IIs! 1st world problems eh?
Sand wheel smooth.
Fill imperfections with bondo or some automotive filler.
Re-sand smooth
Clean wheel.
Paint with sandable primer.
Wet Sand wheel smooth with 600 grit.
Clean wheel
Paint with Wurth silver wheel paint. Available at Autogeek. Let dry for an hour or 2.
Do not sand silver coat.
Go straight to clear coat. Trick is putting it on thick without it running. Give an hour between coats, do 3-4 coats.
Have good lighting so you can see if the clear is going on smooth. The last clear coat try and lay it on thick, if it looks smooth and wet it will dry that way and you won't have to do any or very little wet sanding and polishing.
The wheels in the pics dried like that with no polishing.
I use Krylon crystal clear uv resistant. Available at Michaels craft store. Works great and dries fast, doesn't run too easily. I used it on my last cup 1 job and it dries hard, especially after a few heat cycles, and it won't yellow over time.
I like to do back side first then tape holes and do front side last.
Take your time, BE PATIENT and attention to detail.
Fill imperfections with bondo or some automotive filler.
Re-sand smooth
Clean wheel.
Paint with sandable primer.
Wet Sand wheel smooth with 600 grit.
Clean wheel
Paint with Wurth silver wheel paint. Available at Autogeek. Let dry for an hour or 2.
Do not sand silver coat.
Go straight to clear coat. Trick is putting it on thick without it running. Give an hour between coats, do 3-4 coats.
Have good lighting so you can see if the clear is going on smooth. The last clear coat try and lay it on thick, if it looks smooth and wet it will dry that way and you won't have to do any or very little wet sanding and polishing.
The wheels in the pics dried like that with no polishing.
I use Krylon crystal clear uv resistant. Available at Michaels craft store. Works great and dries fast, doesn't run too easily. I used it on my last cup 1 job and it dries hard, especially after a few heat cycles, and it won't yellow over time.
I like to do back side first then tape holes and do front side last.
Take your time, BE PATIENT and attention to detail.
02-13-2017, 08:52 PM
#26
Drifting
The wheels look great but I have always had issue with durability with anything out of a rattle can. I use a professional paint gun with a two stage urethane and a catalyst added for finish strength. If I had an oven, I'd cook them after application and they'd be even stronger. IMHO. Are these Porsche wheels or repos?