Rims size
#2
Rennlist Member
11's on the rear are a no-starter unless you want to run -3 degrees camber and everyone who sees your car from the rear will think there's something wrong with it.
My 8's with 235 tires rub the wheelhouse without a 6 mm spacer so I know for sure 8.5's won't work up front.
#3
Thx a lot , and what size do You sugest ?
http://konfigurator.rh-alurad.de/art...0016860012052#
Info from RH website
http://konfigurator.rh-alurad.de/art...0016860012052#
Info from RH website
#4
Rennlist Member
52 ET 8" front (1,25" outer rim and 6,75" inner) and rear 54 ET 10" (2,25" outer rim and 7,75" inner rim) jdorociak@gmail.com jim
#5
I have had a difficult time finding the answer to the wheel figment question. I have a 1994 turbo look with the turbo flares and rear trailing arms. I would like to get some bbs e88 wheels to get a flush-to-the-fenders look with the widest wheels possible. I have found nothing out there to definitively answer this question. But I have come across possibly 9 and 10.5 for front and rears respectively, with offsets of between 47-52. Any thoughts out there from turbo owners with large fitments and standard rear turbo trailing arms? I'm not opposed to rolling fenders but not interested in adding a lot of negative camber. And the car is a C4, I have to keep the rolling diameters the same for fronts and rears and preferably at the stock 25" diameter. Any thoughts?
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#9
Rennlist Member
Stock Speedline wheels for 965 964 wide body C4 cars is 52 ET 8" You can get by building a 53 ET 8.5" - and in the rear 10.5 is not too difficult 56 ET 10.5 is another size rear I build. Paul has the largest rear wheel built that actually fits under the fender well. 10.75. These numbers ET are real numbers so you could get BBS wheels built or come as close as possible to ET's I know fit. Years ago we had a member brag how he got 9 & 11's on his car and as everyone looked at his car with the new wheels everyone knew they were actually out beyond the fender lips, but for bragging rights this owner got 9 & 11's. Jim jdorociak@gmail.com
#10
Rennlist Member
Years ago we had a member brag how he got 9 & 11's on his car and as everyone looked at his car with the new wheels everyone knew they were actually out beyond the fender lips, but for bragging rights this owner got 9 & 11's. Jim jdorociak@gmail.com
The fart can tips the owner put on the car fit in nice with the cheezy wheels he picked out.
#11
Jim, you are a wealth of information. That is very helpful information. I'm not quite ready to move forward yet with the wheels but this gives me a good idea of what's possible and realistic. I will likely reach out to you soon regarding the build once I settle on the wheel of choice.
#12
Rennlist Member
I am doing a special set of wheels for a 964 with metal turbo fender flares to be added once the set with tires/wheels are installed. A sort of RWB build but without fiberglass fender flares bolted on. I can not provide pictures until later, but as a tease - these will be 10" with a 4" outer lip for the front, and 13" with a 7" outer rim. jdorociak@gmail.com Jim
Last edited by jim dorociak; 08-22-2016 at 11:30 AM.
#14
Rennlist Member
225-40's in the front (option: 235-40's but 6 mm spacer and fender lip rolling will be required). The 1993 Turbo S ran 235's as stock.
In the rear, anywhere from the stock 265-30's to 295-30's will fit. I did run 295's on my 10 inch wide wheels and still run them on my 10.75 inch wide wheels. No spacers or lip rolling required.
In the rear, anywhere from the stock 265-30's to 295-30's will fit. I did run 295's on my 10 inch wide wheels and still run them on my 10.75 inch wide wheels. No spacers or lip rolling required.
#15
Rennlist Member
Raihkim, good choices on your rim sizes. Sounds like you would prefer a sensible tire size setup with minimal chance of rubbing on those rim ET's....
I have the same size & ET setup that you just bought (RH3.6's). I'm running 225's up front & 285's in the rear with -1.8 degrees of camber in the rear.
I've lowered the car to just slightly above RS spec level.
I believe the Spec Book for our cars shows the FRONT camber should be around the -0.17 degree mark.
And the Rear Spec shows between -0.92 and -0.25 degrees camber.
BUT I'm seeing many guys on here (like me) running slightly more negative camber in the rear (beyond the Porsche Spec), & it looks fine.
As Paul said above in post # 2, definitely don't go up near -3.0 degrees. I would suggest NOT even getting up near the -2.3 or above range for rear camber. That's when it starts to get outta shape (but of course it is all dependent upon where your car is sitting currently).
Have fun!!
=Steve
I have the same size & ET setup that you just bought (RH3.6's). I'm running 225's up front & 285's in the rear with -1.8 degrees of camber in the rear.
I've lowered the car to just slightly above RS spec level.
I believe the Spec Book for our cars shows the FRONT camber should be around the -0.17 degree mark.
And the Rear Spec shows between -0.92 and -0.25 degrees camber.
BUT I'm seeing many guys on here (like me) running slightly more negative camber in the rear (beyond the Porsche Spec), & it looks fine.
As Paul said above in post # 2, definitely don't go up near -3.0 degrees. I would suggest NOT even getting up near the -2.3 or above range for rear camber. That's when it starts to get outta shape (but of course it is all dependent upon where your car is sitting currently).
Have fun!!
=Steve