Bringing C4 back to life
#1
Bringing C4 back to life
Found a C4 and been sitting since 2010. Owner said was sitting and fuel system needs to be done but car is pretty clean and 95,000 miles
I dumped Stabil in it and about 4 gallons of shell 92. hoping I dont have to take out gas tank. Im planning on changing fuel filter and oil and will try to fire her up for the first time since 2010.
any suggestions or tips appreciated
I dumped Stabil in it and about 4 gallons of shell 92. hoping I dont have to take out gas tank. Im planning on changing fuel filter and oil and will try to fire her up for the first time since 2010.
any suggestions or tips appreciated
#2
Drifting
Change the engine oil, filter and fuel filter as you suggest. Remove the DME relay before start up and prime the engine with ther starter until you get oil preassure on the gauge. Then just put the relay back and start it up! Will probably be a lot of smoke!
#3
There seems to be a consensus that you don't want to fire up the spark plugs on the initial key turns. My local friendly specialist says pull the LT connectors to the coils, others here have suggested the DME relay. Run on the starter until oil pressure is showing on the dash then refit connector/relay and go for your start. [I'd be interested if anyone has a particular view as to whether one technique is better in any way]
I was also advised that unless known to be contaminated, there is actually no need to change the oil before such a restart and that it makes better sense to run it for a little bit with the existing oil (and identify leaks) before a change. It is my understanding that you'll also get a more complete oil change this way since warming up the oil will reduce its viscosity and let more run out.
My experience of storage in a less than desert-dry environment was that brakes needed attention (I rebuilt them along with the clutch slave and completely bled the hydraulics system).
I guess there is a risk of sticking clutch too; I guess you'll find this out in pretty short order.
Assume you've changed the battery?
Once running and you've assessed any more serious problems lurking, it would seem to make sense to then do a basic service of filters, plugs, rotor arm etc.
Good luck!
Z
Edit: Looks like Thomas can type faster than I can.
I was also advised that unless known to be contaminated, there is actually no need to change the oil before such a restart and that it makes better sense to run it for a little bit with the existing oil (and identify leaks) before a change. It is my understanding that you'll also get a more complete oil change this way since warming up the oil will reduce its viscosity and let more run out.
My experience of storage in a less than desert-dry environment was that brakes needed attention (I rebuilt them along with the clutch slave and completely bled the hydraulics system).
I guess there is a risk of sticking clutch too; I guess you'll find this out in pretty short order.
Assume you've changed the battery?
Once running and you've assessed any more serious problems lurking, it would seem to make sense to then do a basic service of filters, plugs, rotor arm etc.
Good luck!
Z
Edit: Looks like Thomas can type faster than I can.
#5
#6
Three Wheelin'
You don't necessarily need another 20k sitting around. That's a negative attitude.
Every car is different. My car I just bought today was sitting since 09 till now. It's fine. Only thing on the list is old tires. Had oil changed days ago. Runs great.
Every car is different. My car I just bought today was sitting since 09 till now. It's fine. Only thing on the list is old tires. Had oil changed days ago. Runs great.
#7
^^ great info! thanks for the headsup guys. will do that to get oil pressure first. The clutch feels very stiff. brakes feel a little mushy too.
Is it true you have to have the C4 system professionally bled because it take a ton more pressure? and not traditionally like a C2 would be with just the 2 person method?
Is it true you have to have the C4 system professionally bled because it take a ton more pressure? and not traditionally like a C2 would be with just the 2 person method?
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#8
I can only hope it will go as smooth for me. how many miles on the car? and no motor rebuild?
#10
Rennlist Member
This will get you started. Not negative, just reality for old cars and these are the hot spots:
tires and brakes prob a given, engine mounts (upgrade to 993 style and save a few bucks), Oil system (OK this incl the tank ($1796), hoses (over $700), lines all the way to both coolers in front, cross over line from tank to case, etc), Front AC/fresh air fans (almost $2k in parts alone, UBO cheaper but jury still out), AC hose, conversion to 134, AC service, axle boots with CV service, diff seals, battery, Hydraulic pump ($1861), Distributor ($1500), engine sound absorber mat (prob falling down), rear spoiler module, hood struts, service incl valve adjustment, cyl leak testplugs, filters, belts, misc oil leaks including oil return tubes, timing cover brings, rear main and front crank seal likely areas, tail light lenses cracking, peeling gauges plus odometer rebuild.
Add some labor cost and a few upgrades and viola, you can end up with a lot of money invested.
tires and brakes prob a given, engine mounts (upgrade to 993 style and save a few bucks), Oil system (OK this incl the tank ($1796), hoses (over $700), lines all the way to both coolers in front, cross over line from tank to case, etc), Front AC/fresh air fans (almost $2k in parts alone, UBO cheaper but jury still out), AC hose, conversion to 134, AC service, axle boots with CV service, diff seals, battery, Hydraulic pump ($1861), Distributor ($1500), engine sound absorber mat (prob falling down), rear spoiler module, hood struts, service incl valve adjustment, cyl leak testplugs, filters, belts, misc oil leaks including oil return tubes, timing cover brings, rear main and front crank seal likely areas, tail light lenses cracking, peeling gauges plus odometer rebuild.
Add some labor cost and a few upgrades and viola, you can end up with a lot of money invested.
#12
Rennlist Member
^^ great info! thanks for the headsup guys. will do that to get oil pressure first. The clutch feels very stiff. brakes feel a little mushy too.
Is it true you have to have the C4 system professionally bled because it take a ton more pressure? and not traditionally like a C2 would be with just the 2 person method?
Is it true you have to have the C4 system professionally bled because it take a ton more pressure? and not traditionally like a C2 would be with just the 2 person method?
#13
This will get you started. Not negative, just reality for old cars and these are the hot spots:
tires and brakes prob a given, engine mounts (upgrade to 993 style and save a few bucks), Oil system (OK this incl the tank ($1796), hoses (over $700), lines all the way to both coolers in front, cross over line from tank to case, etc), Front AC/fresh air fans (almost $2k in parts alone, UBO cheaper but jury still out), AC hose, conversion to 134, AC service, axle boots with CV service, diff seals, battery, Hydraulic pump ($1861), Distributor ($1500), engine sound absorber mat (prob falling down), rear spoiler module, hood struts, service incl valve adjustment, cyl leak testplugs, filters, belts, misc oil leaks including oil return tubes, timing cover brings, rear main and front crank seal likely areas, tail light lenses cracking, peeling gauges plus odometer rebuild.
Add some labor cost and a few upgrades and viola, you can end up with a lot of money invested.
tires and brakes prob a given, engine mounts (upgrade to 993 style and save a few bucks), Oil system (OK this incl the tank ($1796), hoses (over $700), lines all the way to both coolers in front, cross over line from tank to case, etc), Front AC/fresh air fans (almost $2k in parts alone, UBO cheaper but jury still out), AC hose, conversion to 134, AC service, axle boots with CV service, diff seals, battery, Hydraulic pump ($1861), Distributor ($1500), engine sound absorber mat (prob falling down), rear spoiler module, hood struts, service incl valve adjustment, cyl leak testplugs, filters, belts, misc oil leaks including oil return tubes, timing cover brings, rear main and front crank seal likely areas, tail light lenses cracking, peeling gauges plus odometer rebuild.
Add some labor cost and a few upgrades and viola, you can end up with a lot of money invested.
Z
#14
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
In general you should have a sizable slush fund when purchasing a ~20+ year old sports car with complex systems like the C4. And even more so when the car has scant records.
#15
C4 has the Turbo brake system which includes pressure accumulator ("Bomb" as some have termed) and master cylinder in the luggage compartment instead of down on the steering rack, the accumulator does operate at high pressures. The C2 does not have the "bomb" and bleeds like a traditional car, the C4 requires some extra steps but nothing to be afraid of. There is a great thread about testing equipment and procedures here on 964 RL.
Ok great. im just glad I dont have to take it to a shop just for the brakes. much appreciated.