starter motor and half shaft dead!
#1
Banned
Thread Starter
starter motor and half shaft dead!
My supposed to be nice Saturday turned into all day under the car, a bloody finger. and still a dead car.
I am pretty sure I have a a dead starter motor now. got in the car in the morning, turn key, one click then nothing. Battery is 12.5v. Tried external battery pack, tried jumping from a different car. one click still nothing.
key on, confirmed 12.5v on 50amp cable to starter. cleaned all the connections at starter, still nothing.
Took the bite, starting to remove the starter. Now I am left with 2 stubborn bolts on the half shaft. 4 came off easily with electric torque gun. These last two wouldn't move. I am at lost now, They look soft, I am afraid using breaker bar would strip them. they are soak in wd40 now. Will try again tomorrow
So yea, I also managed to smash my pinky finger.
Will bench test the starter if i can get it out. Any trick on those two bolts? I should just sell the car and call it a day!!!
I am pretty sure I have a a dead starter motor now. got in the car in the morning, turn key, one click then nothing. Battery is 12.5v. Tried external battery pack, tried jumping from a different car. one click still nothing.
key on, confirmed 12.5v on 50amp cable to starter. cleaned all the connections at starter, still nothing.
Took the bite, starting to remove the starter. Now I am left with 2 stubborn bolts on the half shaft. 4 came off easily with electric torque gun. These last two wouldn't move. I am at lost now, They look soft, I am afraid using breaker bar would strip them. they are soak in wd40 now. Will try again tomorrow
So yea, I also managed to smash my pinky finger.
Will bench test the starter if i can get it out. Any trick on those two bolts? I should just sell the car and call it a day!!!
#2
I spent 2 days trying different bits and extractors, then I used dremmel and cut off the head. After that a stud extractor and done! Later I learned the weld a nut method, but that area is awfully close to the engine and fuel lines so maybe not a good idea.
Thanks!
Andrew
Thanks!
Andrew
#3
Race Car
Try pb blaster for a day or two. Then clamp a vise grip to the head of the bolt. Apply pressure to the vise grip while you work the Allen.
If that doesn't work- lock tight makes a bolt freeze that may be safer than heat in that area.
Last resort, cut the head off.
If you are coming up this way, I have new zinc plated, hard, bolts to replace those. Otherwise McMaster Carr is your friend...
I'll be looking for my old starter today. If I find it you are welcome to it...but i would just replace yours if you are taking out the old one anyway...pita job so to do it twice is a bitch...
I'll be out there all day today, feel free to call if you get stuck.
If that doesn't work- lock tight makes a bolt freeze that may be safer than heat in that area.
Last resort, cut the head off.
If you are coming up this way, I have new zinc plated, hard, bolts to replace those. Otherwise McMaster Carr is your friend...
I'll be looking for my old starter today. If I find it you are welcome to it...but i would just replace yours if you are taking out the old one anyway...pita job so to do it twice is a bitch...
I'll be out there all day today, feel free to call if you get stuck.
#4
Race Car
Oh and FYI...put the other bolts back in and snug them. This will eliminate the possibility that you are inadvertently putting shear force on the bolts, effectively holding them in...
When you put it all back together - remember that the bolts, the metal pieces that tie the bolts together and the metal cases around the cv joints are supposed to be clean and dry, no grease. The only parts that get copper anti seize are the last 10mm of the bolts. And use it sparingly there. Just enough, is enough.
When you put it all back together - remember that the bolts, the metal pieces that tie the bolts together and the metal cases around the cv joints are supposed to be clean and dry, no grease. The only parts that get copper anti seize are the last 10mm of the bolts. And use it sparingly there. Just enough, is enough.
#7
Banned
Thread Starter
Ok. I removed the starter today. Didn't strip the bolts. What a pita.
Here is the vid bench testing the starter. It spins very slowly. Withno torque at all. I can stop the spin by holding the shaft. Powered from a running car too.
Safe to say time for new starter? Anyway I can refurbish it?
Here is the vid bench testing the starter. It spins very slowly. Withno torque at all. I can stop the spin by holding the shaft. Powered from a running car too.
Safe to say time for new starter? Anyway I can refurbish it?
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#9
Race Car
You can look up the process for "exercising the solenoid - bmw forum somewhere...
But I'd just replace it.
I looked for my old one. I think I tossed it. Sorry Ken. But that said- get that thing running and get up here for Fairfield coffee and cars next Sunday am...!!!!
But I'd just replace it.
I looked for my old one. I think I tossed it. Sorry Ken. But that said- get that thing running and get up here for Fairfield coffee and cars next Sunday am...!!!!
#10
Banned
Thread Starter
I know. I should probably just replace the whole unit. Hope it wont come back and bite me in the near future.
My new solenoid came it. for 25 bucks. why the heck not right?
Part# for furture reference
solenoid 0-331-303-133
starter 964-604-104-00
Bench tested, seems good to go. starter is strong again. Will install this weekend.
My new solenoid came it. for 25 bucks. why the heck not right?
Part# for furture reference
solenoid 0-331-303-133
starter 964-604-104-00
Bench tested, seems good to go. starter is strong again. Will install this weekend.