C4 Gearbox refresh
#16
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Your G50 looks cute in a blankie!
When I read there were clutches in the C4 system I was completely turned off. I'm also a Jeep guy and 'Jeep Guys' completely frown upon clutch systems...albeit Jeeps are not as well made.
How hard is it to switch to a C2 setup? i.e. lose the 4-wheel drive.
When I read there were clutches in the C4 system I was completely turned off. I'm also a Jeep guy and 'Jeep Guys' completely frown upon clutch systems...albeit Jeeps are not as well made.
How hard is it to switch to a C2 setup? i.e. lose the 4-wheel drive.
Switching to a C2 setup is easy, you just have to find the relevant parts and $$$. I've yet to see a G64 gearbox converted to 2wd, which would be the best option. That said, I think the 4WD is the better all rounder and I'm willing to put up with weight and complexity costs.
#17
Burning Brakes
G64 cannot be converted...that's why they are much cheaper used. In your case, it's hard to just replace the trans as you may be buying the same problems.
Is there anything else needed? maybe axels, maybe computer and then you take off all the extra parts.
Has anyone done this?
Is there anything else needed? maybe axels, maybe computer and then you take off all the extra parts.
Has anyone done this?
#18
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
G64 cannot be converted...that's why they are much cheaper used. In your case, it's hard to just replace the trans as you may be buying the same problems.
Is there anything else needed? maybe axels, maybe computer and then you take off all the extra parts.
Has anyone done this?
Is there anything else needed? maybe axels, maybe computer and then you take off all the extra parts.
Has anyone done this?
If there was a lowish mileage Valeo equipped box available then I likely would have taken the gamble, but there wasn't so I've chosen to fix mine.
While I love the handling on the track I will think long and hard about the use when I get the car back. I think it will be occasional track use here on out as I don't want issues on a car I will keep for decades after its refresh.
#21
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Ouch. Do you have a replacement sorted?
$1,000 at Cogs Cogs (no affiliation) Part Number 964.339.015.22 http://shop.cogscogs.com/Distributor...-10_c_715.html
$1,000 at Cogs Cogs (no affiliation) Part Number 964.339.015.22 http://shop.cogscogs.com/Distributor...-10_c_715.html
#27
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I have the Porsche Panorama mags for April & May 2007 that explains a short cut in converting from C4 to C2.
Basically needs the C2 shift assembly, shift box (to be welded up), C2 transmission and cap/bolt to plug up a bunch of lines. Front axles are torn apart and only the axle ends are put back in. Shift box needs to be cut out of the body and the C2 shift box welded up. everything else bolts up and I believe a few sensors removed. Sorry I can't scan the images (no scanner at home) plus don't want to infringe on any copywrite rules.
Basically needs the C2 shift assembly, shift box (to be welded up), C2 transmission and cap/bolt to plug up a bunch of lines. Front axles are torn apart and only the axle ends are put back in. Shift box needs to be cut out of the body and the C2 shift box welded up. everything else bolts up and I believe a few sensors removed. Sorry I can't scan the images (no scanner at home) plus don't want to infringe on any copywrite rules.
#28
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
The box is mated back to the engine. The final parts list was:
2nd, 3rd and 4th synchros
3rd gear set
4th gear dog
3/4 gear guide sleeve
Lateral and longitudinal clutch pack
Gasket set
Differential bolts
1 gallon Swepco 201 oil
Labour was 35 hours, of which ~ 20 related to the C4 specific parts and an issue with a skewed 4th gear dog that required re-disassembly. You could add 10 hours to the labour if the shop removed and refitted the engine and box.
2nd, 3rd and 4th synchros
3rd gear set
4th gear dog
3/4 gear guide sleeve
Lateral and longitudinal clutch pack
Gasket set
Differential bolts
1 gallon Swepco 201 oil
Labour was 35 hours, of which ~ 20 related to the C4 specific parts and an issue with a skewed 4th gear dog that required re-disassembly. You could add 10 hours to the labour if the shop removed and refitted the engine and box.
#29
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Update: A track day shakedown provided more drama than expected....
I had driven a total of 100km on the rebuilt box and all seemed OK, but the track tested a different type of driving and it didn't turn out well.
Redline in first, OK. Redline in 2nd, OK. Rev to 5,000 rpm in 3rd and the gear pops into neutral. What the... Short shift from 3rd to 4th and Ok. Same with 5th. Also a slight snick from 2nd to 3rd.
Something is not right. The box builder acknowledged that there was a problem after testing it for a few laps, said It's ok to shift around it for the day, but it needs to be redone A few laps later and there's a clunk. The box is stuck in third gear.
I had driven a total of 100km on the rebuilt box and all seemed OK, but the track tested a different type of driving and it didn't turn out well.
Redline in first, OK. Redline in 2nd, OK. Rev to 5,000 rpm in 3rd and the gear pops into neutral. What the... Short shift from 3rd to 4th and Ok. Same with 5th. Also a slight snick from 2nd to 3rd.
Something is not right. The box builder acknowledged that there was a problem after testing it for a few laps, said It's ok to shift around it for the day, but it needs to be redone A few laps later and there's a clunk. The box is stuck in third gear.
#30
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
The engine and box are pulled again, box reopened and it turns out that the 3/4 selector rod is broken at the machined Neutral detent.
While the part is cheap, the labour cost is mounting. As it would appear that the failure is extremely rare and not linked to the rebuild I'm up for the repair.
I have my big boy pants on, but I'm the type of person that needs to understand why things happen. Can anyone offer a plausible reason why this part would be stressed to the point of snapping? It may be a coincidence but 100km after a full rebuild is annoying.
While the part is cheap, the labour cost is mounting. As it would appear that the failure is extremely rare and not linked to the rebuild I'm up for the repair.
I have my big boy pants on, but I'm the type of person that needs to understand why things happen. Can anyone offer a plausible reason why this part would be stressed to the point of snapping? It may be a coincidence but 100km after a full rebuild is annoying.