My mini-restoration project - 1991 Porsche 964 Cabrio
#16
Banned
Thread Starter
Fuxor, car wouldn't start today. First time I put the key in, everything lit up as usual, I heard a fan start, and then nothing. I drove it yesterday but left the battery connected for about 24hrs. I unplugged the battery, and reconnected it, tightening the nut by hand, heard some things going on, opened the door, dome light turned on, turned the key and nothing happened again.
Think it's a battery issue or something more pernicious?
Think it's a battery issue or something more pernicious?
#17
Burning Brakes
And some engine compartment pics. I tried highlighting the only things that looked like they might be something out of place.
Welding of some sort that looks half-assed to me: Top left of the engine bay (by the struts):
Other side, same image:
More welding spots, here at the bottom left side:
The center reflector doesn't "run" with the upward curvature of the body. I.e. The distance at the end right and left side of the body panel to reflector is greater than at the center.
Welding of some sort that looks half-assed to me: Top left of the engine bay (by the struts):
Other side, same image:
More welding spots, here at the bottom left side:
The center reflector doesn't "run" with the upward curvature of the body. I.e. The distance at the end right and left side of the body panel to reflector is greater than at the center.
#18
Banned
Thread Starter
Cool. Good to hear. Car also started right up when I got home from work and took her out on a great drive to Oakland through Canyon (listed as one of the best bike rides in the world by road-bikers). Fantastic.
Going to pick up my radio delete piece and tube at Sonnen today. Will wrench around Sunday or Monday. Still have to do oil change, fuel filter change and air filter change.
Happy motoring Saturday!
Going to pick up my radio delete piece and tube at Sonnen today. Will wrench around Sunday or Monday. Still have to do oil change, fuel filter change and air filter change.
Happy motoring Saturday!
#19
Banned
Thread Starter
Changed the oil today. I put in 9.5 qts after draining. Did the heat engine up, puncture filter, open tank, open engine.
Couple comments: there doesnt seem like a lot of consensus regarding how much oil to put in, and the threat of overfilling sounds quite severe.
My thought process was 7 is the minimum to put in. What I got out was at least 7 qts (using 15qt pan) and I'm pretty sure I was pretty low to begin with.
There was white gunk around the bolt from the oil tank. I will post a picture soon. Cleaned both bolts, new alum crush washers.
Generally worked out, but I have no idea whatsoever how much oil there is in there. Dipstick is useless, gauge I have no idea how to interpret (started at 3, when engine was lukewarm, then dropped to 1.5 as I filled oil from 7 qts to 9.5).
Couple comments: there doesnt seem like a lot of consensus regarding how much oil to put in, and the threat of overfilling sounds quite severe.
My thought process was 7 is the minimum to put in. What I got out was at least 7 qts (using 15qt pan) and I'm pretty sure I was pretty low to begin with.
There was white gunk around the bolt from the oil tank. I will post a picture soon. Cleaned both bolts, new alum crush washers.
Generally worked out, but I have no idea whatsoever how much oil there is in there. Dipstick is useless, gauge I have no idea how to interpret (started at 3, when engine was lukewarm, then dropped to 1.5 as I filled oil from 7 qts to 9.5).
#20
You want your oil level gauge somewhere in the middle. if you already put in 9.5 quarts, that should be plenty. Take the car out for a ride, it has to be at operating temp for the gauge to register properly, make sure the car is on level ground when you read it. The dipstick is hard to read with brand new oil, once you get a few miles and some color in the oil, it becomes a little easier.
#21
Changed the oil today. I put in 9.5 qts after draining. Did the heat engine up, puncture filter, open tank, open engine.
Couple comments: there doesnt seem like a lot of consensus regarding how much oil to put in, and the threat of overfilling sounds quite severe.
My thought process was 7 is the minimum to put in. What I got out was at least 7 qts (using 15qt pan) and I'm pretty sure I was pretty low to begin with.
There was white gunk around the bolt from the oil tank. I will post a picture soon. Cleaned both bolts, new alum crush washers.
Generally worked out, but I have no idea whatsoever how much oil there is in there. Dipstick is useless, gauge I have no idea how to interpret (started at 3, when engine was lukewarm, then dropped to 1.5 as I filled oil from 7 qts to 9.5).
Couple comments: there doesnt seem like a lot of consensus regarding how much oil to put in, and the threat of overfilling sounds quite severe.
My thought process was 7 is the minimum to put in. What I got out was at least 7 qts (using 15qt pan) and I'm pretty sure I was pretty low to begin with.
There was white gunk around the bolt from the oil tank. I will post a picture soon. Cleaned both bolts, new alum crush washers.
Generally worked out, but I have no idea whatsoever how much oil there is in there. Dipstick is useless, gauge I have no idea how to interpret (started at 3, when engine was lukewarm, then dropped to 1.5 as I filled oil from 7 qts to 9.5).
Add 6 ltrs, start engine and run at idle, add approx 3 ltrs more, fit filler cap, then check and top-up using the dipstick method (ie, ignore the gauge!). Is your dipstick faulty?
#22
Banned
Thread Starter
I really have no idea. If by faulty you mean I can't tell a thing from it, then yes, I think it must be faulty! Everytime I pulled it out, the oil smeared along the dipstick leaving an unclear (yet, very transparent) reading on the dipstick. Gauge was less than helpful, though it seems the manual (that I don't have, been relying on the good word of fellow rennlisters and pelican parts ppl) mentions a different method.
After 5 tries, I gave up on the dipstick method and the gauge method and instead estimated how much oil came out and replaced approximately that much.
After 5 tries, I gave up on the dipstick method and the gauge method and instead estimated how much oil came out and replaced approximately that much.
#23
Race Car
The dipstick takes some time to figure out. It's really hard to read with new oil.
I find that I can't read it under most light sources, but under direct sunlight it's much easier. Try taking a look on a sunny day, turn the dipstick in the sun and you'll see the oil level on the stick in the glare. It will be subtle but you'll see it. And then once you know what you are looking for it will be easy.
I find that I can't read it under most light sources, but under direct sunlight it's much easier. Try taking a look on a sunny day, turn the dipstick in the sun and you'll see the oil level on the stick in the glare. It will be subtle but you'll see it. And then once you know what you are looking for it will be easy.
#24
Banned
Thread Starter
This may be a stupid question, but I can't for the life of me find something that spells it out.
What is below the carpeting that is under the floormat? I think there is soundproofing foam stuff, but is that sandwiched between the floor of the car and wooden floorboards? Does it rest on top of wooden floorboards? My stuff has been stripped to the metal and currently just has floormats over metal. I saw a DIY to make wooden floorboards, and I like rennline floorboards, but it seems both of those exist behind the gas/clutch/brake pedals...
Will post a picture tonight along with my sickly looking oil tank bolt
What is below the carpeting that is under the floormat? I think there is soundproofing foam stuff, but is that sandwiched between the floor of the car and wooden floorboards? Does it rest on top of wooden floorboards? My stuff has been stripped to the metal and currently just has floormats over metal. I saw a DIY to make wooden floorboards, and I like rennline floorboards, but it seems both of those exist behind the gas/clutch/brake pedals...
Will post a picture tonight along with my sickly looking oil tank bolt
#25
Banned
Thread Starter
"Floorboards"
And are these cassette tape holders? Gotta pop open my throwback pepsi if so:
These are the "floorboards" concept I want, assuming it fits over the red painted metal illustrated above. And perhaps add back modern soundproofing.
Would like something like this, but with the proper underbelly below the floormat (really what my question is):
And the pus on my oil tank bolt:
Kind of gross.
And are these cassette tape holders? Gotta pop open my throwback pepsi if so:
These are the "floorboards" concept I want, assuming it fits over the red painted metal illustrated above. And perhaps add back modern soundproofing.
Would like something like this, but with the proper underbelly below the floormat (really what my question is):
And the pus on my oil tank bolt:
Kind of gross.
#26
Nordschleife Master
As far as taillight gaskets are concerned, your car probably doesn't take one or need one. Early 964s (definitely '89, possibly '90)) had the gasket on the rear tails. By '91, they didn't use them anymore. My '91 doesn't have 'em either.
#27
Banned
Thread Starter
Whale tail gasket was annoying me so I pulled it off. Plan on replacing gasket and fixing the metal mesh in there that rattled a bit. Got late and the lady started getting annoyed, so called it after I got it off nad cleaned the engine lid a little bit:
Squash racket going to have do until I fix the decklid struts.
Squash racket going to have do until I fix the decklid struts.
#28
Banned
Thread Starter
Yeah, that's what my guy at Sonnen told me. Still doesn't look right, and having one screw on one end of the tail light (just asking to be torqued by the weight of the tail light on a speedbump or something) isn't confidence inspiring.
#29
Banned
Thread Starter
Sourced the hot air tube, whale tail gasket, and two hood gaskets. Those will be installed this weekend.
Yesterday I was working until about 1 am on doing the fuel and air filter change. I followed a DIY for a 993, and on the 964 it's significantly easier. The front nut (towards the frunk) was much harder to open, but the two wrenches one hand (sounds like it could be a VERY VERY weird sex tape) works brilliantly.
The gas that came out though is somewhat of a concern to me.
It's pretty dark. Is that typical? If not, what is it symptomatic of?
Also, when trying to catch gas that comes out of your filter, DO NOT USE A SOLO CUP. It will dissolve faster than you can try to plug it. Paper is the way to go (the other consideration is that the area to put your cup as you wrench is oblong, so a catch that can be cut, and squished, to size is a key consideration).
Also, given the color of my gas, not sure I want to put it back in.
Any thoughts?
Yesterday I was working until about 1 am on doing the fuel and air filter change. I followed a DIY for a 993, and on the 964 it's significantly easier. The front nut (towards the frunk) was much harder to open, but the two wrenches one hand (sounds like it could be a VERY VERY weird sex tape) works brilliantly.
The gas that came out though is somewhat of a concern to me.
It's pretty dark. Is that typical? If not, what is it symptomatic of?
Also, when trying to catch gas that comes out of your filter, DO NOT USE A SOLO CUP. It will dissolve faster than you can try to plug it. Paper is the way to go (the other consideration is that the area to put your cup as you wrench is oblong, so a catch that can be cut, and squished, to size is a key consideration).
Also, given the color of my gas, not sure I want to put it back in.
Any thoughts?