C4: Brake bleed / hydraulic system bleed procedure
The following users liked this post:
964Luftballoon (05-22-2020)
#32
Race Car
Did my c4 and a friends c4 today using your DIY Ricardo. Awesome write up.
This time around I used a pdt999...what a huge difference. Highly recommend.
We bled with the motive bleeder wet. And went through 4-5 liters of ate 200. It was more like 4, but then you have extra in the motive at the end. So I need to remember to buy 5 at a time.
This time around I used a pdt999...what a huge difference. Highly recommend.
We bled with the motive bleeder wet. And went through 4-5 liters of ate 200. It was more like 4, but then you have extra in the motive at the end. So I need to remember to buy 5 at a time.
#33
Track Day
I am trying to work up enough confidence to try this on my C4. Thanks for the details as this helps.
Now all I need is a pdt999 and then a lift for my garage! I guess this project can wait a few more months.
Thanks again.
Now all I need is a pdt999 and then a lift for my garage! I guess this project can wait a few more months.
Thanks again.
#34
Race Car
Also, the pdt999 made life quick and easy, but another rennlister, nick, made the suggestion a while back to replace the bleeder on the diff locks with m6 x 1 speed bleeders, and with those on you simply crack open the bleeder and sit in the car and turn on and off the diff lock switch. Brilliant. No more real need for special tools. But, it's faster with the pdt.
Don't be shy about bleeding. The previous owner to my car never bled the diff locks and they were seized by the time I started sorting it out. There is a lot of fluid in these cars. You have to bleed them once or twice per year and flush all that fluid out. Otherwise you end up with too much water in the fluid. And too much air.
No car ever suffered from fresh fluids.
#35
Track Day
Thanks and that is good info. I was not aware that this was a once a year mx item. Sounds like it is time for me jump in and give this a shot.
Thanks again.
Thanks again.
#36
+1 on don't put off the bleeding.
Prev owner planned it but never did.
My car was sent to a porsche service centre for engine out and trans rebuild (and a new transverse diff lock)
Came back to me with the hydraulic pump running very long over 100 seconds to pressurize.
I knew that air was introduced. And the bleed was long overdue.
I used the motive bleeder and bleed all the sites listed above. The "bomb" had the most air and black fluid.
My advice is start up in the frunk. Attach a battery tender, take your time, be gentle with the bleeder valves
Makes sense, as Goughary says to bleed at the longitudinal lock at the nose of trans. Really easy to get that one, but only after making sure the system is flushed at the pump and accumulator first. Speed bleeders are a neat idea. Lift is a luxury, not a necessity.
cheers
Prev owner planned it but never did.
My car was sent to a porsche service centre for engine out and trans rebuild (and a new transverse diff lock)
Came back to me with the hydraulic pump running very long over 100 seconds to pressurize.
I knew that air was introduced. And the bleed was long overdue.
I used the motive bleeder and bleed all the sites listed above. The "bomb" had the most air and black fluid.
My advice is start up in the frunk. Attach a battery tender, take your time, be gentle with the bleeder valves
Makes sense, as Goughary says to bleed at the longitudinal lock at the nose of trans. Really easy to get that one, but only after making sure the system is flushed at the pump and accumulator first. Speed bleeders are a neat idea. Lift is a luxury, not a necessity.
cheers
Last edited by Feudal Serf; 05-05-2015 at 09:50 PM. Reason: grammer
#37
Rennlist Member
Pictures previously posted of the clip if you push on the flat length it unlocks the plug.
#38
Burning Brakes
#39
Race Car
Originally Posted by C4inLA
Curious, could you define "seized", what seized? Did you remove lock, rebuild? How did you unseize?
I don't remember how I got it loose. I seem to remember removing the retainer ring and I operating the lock. Anyway, the inside of the slave was shot. I honed it a bit, rebuilt it with a new seal.
If you don't bleed the c4 often, you will have humidity in the lines . Humidity causes air and corrosion. And with the amount of damage the corrosion does, better to bleed
#40
Rennlist Member
Hmm, looking through my car's service history I don't see a bleed in the past 12-18 months.
5 quarts of ATE 200 should be enough to everything?
5 quarts of ATE 200 should be enough to everything?
#42
Race Car
Originally Posted by spartansix
Hmm, looking through my car's service history I don't see a bleed in the past 12-18 months.
5 quarts of ATE 200 should be enough to everything?
5 quarts of ATE 200 should be enough to everything?