groovzilla

there is a thread on replacing the oil sender gasket which i read and used as a guide:
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...technique.html

spent the morning removing aibox & air mass air sensor and was able to access the oil pressure sender(barely)

when i got ready to unbolt the sensor held down with 2 10mm bolts, i noticed that there is an airconditioner bracket also attached to the oil pressure base held in place by the 2 bolts...this bracket is not addressed in the above thread because his car doesn't have a/c...

i traced this bracket back to the main a/c mount and realized the a/c has to be completely removed in order to get the sender out.

1. the 2 bolts for the a/c closest to the rear of the car are held with a square nut that you can access...the rear left bolt looks impossible to get to so reinstalling will be a problem...has anyone removed the a/c bracket and reinstalled??
2. i noticed the replacement oil pressure sender i purchased from pelican parts does not have a washer(crushwasher?)which seems to be shown in most photos of the sender...anyone familiar with this?

wm

Eric Kessel

As I mentioned in the guide, the bracket is held by one bolt under the compressor, and it's not a problem to remove it. Once the bolt is removed, then remove the nuts holding it down over the pressure sender.

groovzilla

eric...i removed that bolt for the bracket and also had both 10mm nuts on the sender removed but the bracket still will not budge without i assume removing the a/c.

i attempted this w/o removing the manifold which would obviously make it alot easier however i was trying not to rip everything apart

BTW, how is the cable removed that loops thru the manifold from the throttle??

Eric Kessel

It's a tight fit in there, but with the nuts removed, and the bolt off, you should be able to maneuver the bracket out of the way. I'll take a look at it tomorrow, and see if I'm forgetting anything.

The manifold comes apart in sections, so I was able to wiggle the manifold part around the throttle cable (it's the cruise control cable right?).

groovzilla

not sure the actual name of the cable but it goes from throttle setup and loops thru the manifold....it looks like this cable will prevent pulling the manifold off but maybe there is enough slack in the cable to get it around one of the ends of the manifold to remove the manifold out of the way?.

also eric, can the larger black tube blocking the fuel filter be unhooked to make changing out the fuel filter easier?

boxsey911

I would highly recommend you pull the manifold as it's much better to be able to see what you're doing when replacing the sender. Slacken two large hose clamps and six smaller ones and undo two bolts at the front that secure a bracket with cable plugs on it. Once you can see I am sure you will find that the piece that goes to the air con pump will pull over the lugs. (Nb. a friend has one of these on his 964 but mine doesn't).

Yes you need a crush washer. The senders are normally supplied with one but I can't see it being a problem using the old one. Also check what make of sender you received - I found to my cost that it's only worth using a VDO one (Porsche original equipment).

BTW you'll need a vice and some soft wood to hold the housing when changing the sender as it's locked down very tight.

With right side removed you have all the access you need:

groovzilla

appreciate the help...**can i remove the manifold past the throttle cable that is luped thru it?...in your photo i don't see the cable...you must have disconnected it?...if so how is that done w/o screwing up the cable?

thanks for the heads up on the oil pressure sender and crush washer....i ordered it from autohauz az...they are a good supplier but it is not the OEM porsche sender....**if you go to their site and view the sender they sell, it clearly shows a crush washer on the threads...but didn't come with one

what have your experiences been with the aftermarket sender??

william

jevvy964

The throttle cable is pretty easy to un-hook. First you pop the plastic black bit off the throttle in the engine bay, you will see its split in a way for you then to remove from the end of the throttle cable. Once you have done this you just need to feed the cable back through the bracket behind the intake - these is a rubber grommet that holds it in place but a bit of lube on that should see it pop-out just fine. Refitting is reversed and a little more hassle but again a bit of lube will help you re-seat the rubber grommet into the bracket.

Good luck.

boxsey911

I had no need to undo any cables. Once the hose clamps have been loosened and the front bracket removed, you pull it to the side and then upwards. As you can see from the structure of it below, any cable routed through it will not affect the removal of the manifold because it's open ended:



While it's off you get the chance to clean out all the oil you will probably find inside.

I tried two new aftermarket senders. Neither worked. So I ended up doing this job three times! Below are pics of the senders. The one I wanted to replace on the left, a new non-working aftermarket one in the middle and the new Porsche one (made by VDO) on the right.

groovzilla

had to change it 3X??..jesus!

in your photo above i don't see the throttle cable that i am referring to...i understand that the ends of the manifold are open but when i had looked at the cable it didn't seem long enough to get around the manifold but i will attempt it.
steve, one thing i noticed is that the new sender i purchased from autohauz az has the two elertical poles reversed on the top of the sender as is also evident in the photos of the sender you sent...

the oem sender in my car has the "smaller" male connector on the right side of the top and the larger or "wider" connector is on the left side.

the aftermarket senders have the connectors reversed...i found this odd.

i now may just chalk up the $$ for the oem.

Rocket Rob

When I purchased my coupe two years ago, the oil pressure gauge wasn't working right. It would peg immediately. When I removed the engine a few months later for some other work, I tested the sender. It was working fine, just the wires were reversed. The large and small connectors were on backwards. I figured it was a fluke, fixed it and moved on. I guess I'm not the only one. Hmm....

boxsey911

I swapped the terminals on one of the aftermarket senders but it stilled pegged the needle to the top of gauge. Here's my thread about these problems (Rob helped me out in that one too) :

https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...ghlight=sender

As you can see from the pic above the a/m one was made by 'uro' if yours is a different make you might be OK. Obviously after 2 bad ones I decided the safe route was to go with Porsche original (twice the price of the a/m one).

p.s. my throttle cable doesn't get in the way of the manifolds at all - it comes straight in from the back of the engine bay and is hidden (in the pic) by the AFM.

groovzilla

steve....i said screw it and bought the OEM sender today from pelican parts...$145

the aftermarket sender was $36....too bad they are crap...i was able to return it to autohauz az for a refund...they didn't send it with the crush washer as shown in the photo on their website so it was no problem returning it.

thanks again for the heads up and info/pics...i'll post an update when i change it out friday

wm

boxsey911

William, with Friday looming up I thought I'd just check that you're going to change the sender O ring while you're in there? It's only a few dollars and well worth doing to ensure you don't get a leak when you put the new sender in. Part number is in Garrett's thread that you've linked in the first post.

crg53

I am just guessing here, but the "throttle cable" you are talking about, might be the Cruise control cable, which will easily disconnect from the throttle assembly, my 2C. Let us know how you make out, I may have to do the same to mine pretty soon.