Idle stabilizer troubleshoot
#1
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Idle stabilizer troubleshoot
HI everyone, was chasing vacuum leaks recently, and rebuilt my leaky throttle body via the arnnworx kit, very nice by the way, even had two types of rubber seals to choose from. Anyhow I could then pressurize the intake with the bike pump and hold 10psi seemed to have nailed the 'last' leak at the throttle body.
My idle screw still needed to be pretty much screwed right in to get the idle stabilizer in range to dither around the 950rpm. Had me a bit puzzled and coming off throttle I was still getting a couple of surges and sometimes sticking around 2000rpm, where if I lightly touched the throttle it would then drop down.
Suspecting the idle stabilizer, I have tried sealing off the connection at the maf pipe with some rubber bike tube, you can see in the pic below.
With that sealed off, I needed to back out the throttle adjustment a good 2 or 3 full turns to bring my idle up to a nice steady 950rpm with no surges coming off throttle. Nice.
First question, is this safe with respect to any rubber bits getting into the intake? Should be fine being rubber I imagine...just paranoid i think.
So what is this really telling me about my idle stabilizer, source of the problem or symptom of something else? Its one of the newer bits in the car, I remember getting the original changed at the shop early on, say only about 12 years ago!
TPS checks out ok on all the tests too, plus looks fine on the transition to the idle map on the RogueTuning DME logger.
cheers
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1W...ew?usp=sharing
My idle screw still needed to be pretty much screwed right in to get the idle stabilizer in range to dither around the 950rpm. Had me a bit puzzled and coming off throttle I was still getting a couple of surges and sometimes sticking around 2000rpm, where if I lightly touched the throttle it would then drop down.
Suspecting the idle stabilizer, I have tried sealing off the connection at the maf pipe with some rubber bike tube, you can see in the pic below.
With that sealed off, I needed to back out the throttle adjustment a good 2 or 3 full turns to bring my idle up to a nice steady 950rpm with no surges coming off throttle. Nice.
First question, is this safe with respect to any rubber bits getting into the intake? Should be fine being rubber I imagine...just paranoid i think.
So what is this really telling me about my idle stabilizer, source of the problem or symptom of something else? Its one of the newer bits in the car, I remember getting the original changed at the shop early on, say only about 12 years ago!
TPS checks out ok on all the tests too, plus looks fine on the transition to the idle map on the RogueTuning DME logger.
cheers
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1W...ew?usp=sharing
#2
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Have you tried to ajust your idle after clark garage instructions . cant remember but you disconnect the ISV by shorting something in the coding plug socket, also make sure you meassure the TPS with a multimeter it sounds like it sticks if you have 2000rpm at times
#3
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I would try set the idle again.
http://www.lindseyracing.com/LR/Parts/IDLE944T.html
Follow that first.
As for rubber in the intake. I probably wouldn't want anything in the intake as it could get stuck somewhere. But if it's micro pieces. should be fine.
http://www.lindseyracing.com/LR/Parts/IDLE944T.html
Follow that first.
As for rubber in the intake. I probably wouldn't want anything in the intake as it could get stuck somewhere. But if it's micro pieces. should be fine.
#5
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The IAS / ISV, if shorted at the wires, can also get you a fault in the DME with the idle circuit, this can cause a lot of idle hunt which seems like a huge vac leak. I learned this the hard way, ended up with a new IAS, new connector from Eagle day, and DME to ECU Dr.
#6
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Ive set the idle a couple of times Pauly (and initially did all the TPS checks also).
Will get the intake manifold off at some stage toward the end of summer probably and report back.
cheers