Tricks to secure the halfshaft bolts? What are you racers doing?
09-09-2008, 01:35 AM
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Tricks to secure the halfshaft bolts? What are you racers doing?
I can't seem to get mine to "stick" - they like to backout.
Done the following:
- very carefully cleaned the flange threads
- ditto on the bolts
- used blue locktite
- torqued to spec
Problems & Q's - any tricks?
- have a hard time assembling and keeping the threads clean; the open ends of the CV joints lead to grease in the bolt holes
- should I upgrade to red locktite?
What are you racers doing to keep these suckers secure?
TIA,
Jeff
Done the following:
- very carefully cleaned the flange threads
- ditto on the bolts
- used blue locktite
- torqued to spec
Problems & Q's - any tricks?
- have a hard time assembling and keeping the threads clean; the open ends of the CV joints lead to grease in the bolt holes
- should I upgrade to red locktite?
What are you racers doing to keep these suckers secure?
TIA,
Jeff
09-09-2008, 07:42 AM
#3
Drifting
You could use loctite red but then you have to use heat to remove each one and risk cooking the grease in the joint. If blue isn't working, then I don't think red will be any better.
If blue isn't working, it means there is still contamination in the threads.
To be honest, I've only had mine back out once in 8 years of track driving and I don't use Loctite. I make sure the threads on the bolt and flange are clean (shoot in brake cleaner and follow up w/ a paper towel or q tip). I also very carefully clean the mating surface of the CV joint to ensure it doesn't transfer grease.
If blue isn't working, it means there is still contamination in the threads.
To be honest, I've only had mine back out once in 8 years of track driving and I don't use Loctite. I make sure the threads on the bolt and flange are clean (shoot in brake cleaner and follow up w/ a paper towel or q tip). I also very carefully clean the mating surface of the CV joint to ensure it doesn't transfer grease.
09-09-2008, 11:39 AM
#7
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09-09-2008, 11:52 AM
#8
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Stretch bolts? These things are stretch bolts?
Tool: OK - good tip on the pattern.
Jerome: Yeah, generally that's what I try to do but the side with the tranny cooler is a particular trick.
Landjet: Did you drill them or have a machine shop do it?
Tim: Your suggestion may be the easiest. I'll check into that as well.
Tool: OK - good tip on the pattern.
Jerome: Yeah, generally that's what I try to do but the side with the tranny cooler is a particular trick.
Landjet: Did you drill them or have a machine shop do it?
Tim: Your suggestion may be the easiest. I'll check into that as well.
09-09-2008, 12:10 PM
#10
Race Director
The process to clean go like this.
Bolts clean outside the in cleaning solution like brake clean or similar.
Use qtips with brake clean to clear our the flange threads. This probably will take 10-20 q-tips. Then assembly the CV going to the flange, but a bolt in there to secure. Then take more Q-tips and clean holes again. This way not extra grease gets shoved in there. Blue loctite the bolts and torgue to 33 ft-lbs. I don't use a special torquing proceedure. I just going around the circle.
Also using new bolts can help. I have reused newish bolts in the past, but orginal bolts may be to streched out. Since you have are having issues get fresh ones.
After that do periodic spot checks to makes sure they are not backing out. I do this every race weekend. And of course carry spares in the parts box just incase you lose a bolt on track.
09-09-2008, 12:52 PM
#11
I use Q-tips to clean the flange holes. If you get any grease on the flange threads the loctite will not stick and the bolts will back out.
The process to clean go like this.
Bolts clean outside the in cleaning solution like brake clean or similar.
Use qtips with brake clean to clear our the flange threads. This probably will take 10-20 q-tips. Then assembly the CV going to the flange, but a bolt in there to secure. Then take more Q-tips and clean holes again. This way not extra grease gets shoved in there. Blue loctite the bolts and torgue to 33 ft-lbs. I don't use a special torquing proceedure. I just going around the circle.
Also using new bolts can help. I have reused newish bolts in the past, but orginal bolts may be to streched out. Since you have are having issues get fresh ones.
After that do periodic spot checks to makes sure they are not backing out. I do this every race weekend. And of course carry spares in the parts box just incase you lose a bolt on track.
The process to clean go like this.
Bolts clean outside the in cleaning solution like brake clean or similar.
Use qtips with brake clean to clear our the flange threads. This probably will take 10-20 q-tips. Then assembly the CV going to the flange, but a bolt in there to secure. Then take more Q-tips and clean holes again. This way not extra grease gets shoved in there. Blue loctite the bolts and torgue to 33 ft-lbs. I don't use a special torquing proceedure. I just going around the circle.
Also using new bolts can help. I have reused newish bolts in the past, but orginal bolts may be to streched out. Since you have are having issues get fresh ones.
After that do periodic spot checks to makes sure they are not backing out. I do this every race weekend. And of course carry spares in the parts box just incase you lose a bolt on track.
Torquing CV bolts in a cirtcular pattern is an elementary mechanical mistake.
It is even MORE important to use a cross pattern on a CV than a wheel, because of high axle angle at the union.
09-09-2008, 01:39 PM
#12
Burning Brakes
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Jeff....As Tool stated you need to do a cross pattern for snugging and torq. I drilled the bolts myself. Even with a guide block it takes a lot of time and bits. I will try and find a machine shop next time.
I never had a problem with them backing out but just wanted extra insurance. I safety wire or torq putty all of the major bolts (CV, oil pan, trans mount etc..) so I can give them a quick visual at the track just to make sure all is well.
On a side note, how long does it take to get a membership renewal these days. Mine was done over a month ago.
I never had a problem with them backing out but just wanted extra insurance. I safety wire or torq putty all of the major bolts (CV, oil pan, trans mount etc..) so I can give them a quick visual at the track just to make sure all is well.
On a side note, how long does it take to get a membership renewal these days. Mine was done over a month ago.
09-09-2008, 02:21 PM
#14
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
OK - great suggestions. I think I'll give it one more whirl with a very careful cleaning, blue locktight and adjust the tightening sequence to Tool and Landjet suggest. If I still have problems I think I'll the safety wire approach.
