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I have my rear shocks out and I'm putting them back together now. I ran into a few puzzlers where neither the WSM nor search could fill in the blanks. The car is 1991 S4 auto. This is my first shock replacement on any car so sorry to be dense.
1. I have Sachs standard replacement shocks for my Boges from Roger. They come with a new little yellow zinc plated cap (the 'supporting cover' 928 333 551 00) They appear to screw onto the Boge but they do not fit onto the Sachs - same diameter as the shock tube. How to deal with these?
2. Is there an effective substitute for Molykote U that I can buy at O'Reilly or Autozone?
3. The adjuster sleeve fits over the shock body quite snugly and stops near the bottom but not at the little protruding stampings. It appears there is a slight flare to the bottom of the shock tube, and the sleeve might need to be hit with something to get it all the way seated. True? Is there an alternative? Am I missing something?
On the caps, find a suitable size socket to hold over the cap so it goes on square as you tap it on with a mallet. It is a tight fit but important part.
Those protruding nubs are there as you say to locate the threaded collars, and as you thought you need to hit them! I used a little Optimoly TA on the shock body there (you'll want to put that on the threads anyway, and on the underside of adjuster nut where it sits on spring perch, so the perch doesn't twist with the adjuster), pushed the collar down as far as I could, then carefully used a small drift and rubber mallet to tap around the top of the collar to push it further down till it stops on the protrusions. It's aluminium so you don't want to damage top of threads - just go round with a few taps and it will seat perfectly and nice and square. It's easy to tell/feel when it's in the right position and can't move down any further.
3) As far as the threaded collar goes, just make sure the inside is perfectly clean, as a slight build up of corrosion will happen over the years and they can be a bugger to slip on. Once cleaned out, normally they slip right on. I'd not recommend using lube on the inside of the collar, it will make the collar prone to turning as you try setting your ride height by the adjustment ring. I like the inside of the collar and shock dry for installation, but if you must use some sort of lube...use WD40 it will mostly evaporate after installation and not cause the inner collar to move freely while adjusting.
If it is still snug, after cleaning and smoothing inside of collar, get a three foot piece of 3" exhaust pipe and place that against the adjustment ring (installed on collar) and gentle tap the collar into place. And yes, clean and lube the threads of the collar before installing...running the adjustment ring up and down the threaded portion several times to ensure free movement...it will make your life much more enjoyable...years from now when you want to adjust/change the coil-overs again.
2) I used anti-seize on the threads of the collar.
1) Cap should just be tapped on with rubber/plastic/brass mallet, it does not thread on.
Molykote U is basically a grease made from PAG base oil, standard lithium soap thickener, and a bunch (+60%) MoS2. AutoZone won't have anything similar that I'm aware of. If you can find someone local to you that is a Dow Corning distributor (Fastenal comes to mind) they can order you some. While you are at it add some Dow Corning DC 111 silicone lubricant to that order. It is a great lube for o-rings, rubber gaskets, and makes a great restorative/preservative on all types of exterior rubber parts like the wing mirror surrounds, etc.
Thanks very much guys. That was really helpful and very quick.
On the Molykote U, I decided to get some but not to delay the job. (Also will grab some 111.) My research revealed that CRC Brake and Caliper Grease is a synthetic moly/graphite/Teflon blend that will probably do the trick. I already had it for this job because MrMerlin recommended a heavy grease to stick the conical washers to the LCA. I can report that it is both slippery and viscous.
After a few false starts, the zinc plated cap was hammered home with the flat end of a ball peen hammer. Really, is there no better way to make these?
A 3 inch PVC pipe subbed for exhaust pipe and worked great to seat the adjusters.
The shocks are in, everything is torqued, and I am ready to put the wheels on tomorrow. By the way, this is a classic 928 exercise. I had to do the shocks in order to replace the adjustment collars, to fix the seized adjuster nut, to get the ride height adjusted, to fit the 18" Panamera 5 spokes. I am bracing myself to buy a new dashboard and console in order to fix my burned out clock bulb.
By the way, this is a classic 928 exercise. I had to do the shocks in order to replace the adjustment collars, to fix the seized adjuster nut, to get the ride height adjusted, to fit the 18" Panamera 5 spokes. I am bracing myself to buy a new dashboard and console in order to fix my burned out clock bulb.
The job is finished! Ride height is within factory tolerances at RR 180mm, LR 180mm, RF 184mm, LF 186mm. The new wheels are on: Panamera 5 spokes, Michelin Pilot Sport AS3+ F245/35-18 R265/35-18. Many thanks again!
Dave - LOL - I think I will do exactly that. I find that air conditioning system has prodigious CFM but heat transfer and vent noise is not as good as stock.
Loving the ride height - especially not fouling the spoiler/oil pan on every speed bump.
06-30-2017, 10:04 PM
3 quick newbie questions - rear shock replacement
