ClutchBiteNom

Lately, I've been filling my car with coolant, and it seems to last for about 10 minutes as it all leaks it all out. I've recorded it for you. I've a feeling this might be an expensive repair. It's an '84. Can anyone please help me identify what exactly is going on right now? This was after I had filled it, and drove about 2 miles.

VehiGAZ

What is going on is that you are leaking coolant from somewhere. It could be because of a broken hose clamp ($1 repair) or a cracked block ($X000 repair).

Don't drive it 'til you fix it though...

James Bailey

most likely the heater hoses at the back of the motor under the aircleaner housing. Seldom do people ever change them until one starts leaking because they are out of sight.

Jerry Feather

He's right. You are for sure leaking coolant. The solution if to jack the car up, put it on blocks or safety stands, then open the hood, put some coolant in it and look to see where it is leaking coming from.

ClutchBiteNom

Thanks for the heads up! Unfortunately I live in an apartment complex in Los Angeles, and this isn't much of an option for me. I'm most certainly not mechanically savvy, and the car has to be moved to a new spot every day.

It seems I'm out of options here!

VehiGAZ

Bring it to a mmmm... mmmm... mechanic!

Rob Edwards

Gravity and surface tension being what they are, the _highest_ spot on the motor that is wet will be more informative about the source of the leak than the lowest spot. Any pics/video of the top of the motor? Perhaps with the air intake tubes and air filter housing removed?

mkriete

It's hard to see the exact location of the leak, but it looks like it is leaking from the center rear of the engine. I suspect it is the heater valve, but there are other hoses between the fire wall and the engine. Pull the air box and you can see the hoses and the heater valve. These are not expensive parts (valve around $25, hoses are around $25 and $44 at 928int).

Once you pull the air box, you be able to get a better look at the source of the leak.

Don't drive it until you fix it.

dr bob

The most common failure in that area is the heater control valve, and a short hose that connects the hcv to the fitting on the back of the passenger-side cylinder head. It suffers the most from heat damage. However, the other hoses are just as important. Five heater hoses need to be replaced at the same time, easy while you have the air filter housing removed. Except for the one that connects the bottom of the reservoir to the hard pipe that runs on the passenger-side fender wall, which takes some work from below typically.

Landseer

I hope its a hose, but is probably the water pump based on leak location, centered under car (dripping from oil pan area?).
Happened to my first 84 car on the day I drove it home.
To first inspect / rule-out the hoses, remove the air filter cover, the air filter, and the base box that holds it.
The base has two retaining nuts plus four short bolts with washers that mount it to the AFM, air flow meter.

The short heater hose is slightly over on the passenger side, up against the firewall.
Other hoses to check will also be visible along the firewall and along the passenger fender and fill reservoir.
If any of the other heater hoses are leaking, the discoloration/wetness will stand out.
You can refill and run it without the filter to check it out, so long as the AFM stays seated in the throttle body once the airbox is removed ( the air filter base box actually positions the AFM properly -- it may stay in place if the o-ring mounting it to the throttle body is is still good)
But based on your comments, it needs to go to a mechanic for this.
Whatever you do, don't let it get hot.

Water pump /timing belt job on these cars, which is what I think you will require, is a pretty intrusive surgical operation that really requires a bunch of other work on the timing belt guide path. Every shop says they can do it, but typically won't take the time to fix all the worn-out belt parts that guide the belt that drives the water pump (and that drives the camshafts). Big job. Only a shop that routinely works on this Porsche model should be trusted to do it right ( this is not a casual caution ). The problem with this job is that it cascades. If it is the water pump, the timing belt , the guide path rollers (or their bearings) and possibly the timing gears, tensioner, crank gear and oil pump gears are all going to need inspection and likely replacement. Search here for 16V timing belt replacement threads. Again, if this car hasn't had a recent timing belt, then the parts I'm mentioning have a very high percentage likelihood of mandatory replacement as opposed to "nice to have". If you have a very well maintained car, it might be that some of these parts were replaced in the last 50K miles and your list will be shorter.


What is the maintenance history on the engine? Can you post a picture/video of the engine bay?

You might do best connecting with 928 International in your city for parts and advice where to have it trailered for repair.

If water pump, parts alone to do it right are going to be more than $1000 ( the water pump selection on these some cheap imitations that need to be avoided ). Not sure the cost of the cam gears these days -- 928's R Us in texas can tell you the options on these. If a hose isn't leaking, and WP is, then a next easy step is pulling off the cam gear covers to inspect the belt and at least the cam gears.

Daniel5691

Hi !

Sorry to hear about your troubles, but don't give up.
One really quick and easy way to get a good clue about the
location of the leak is to get some paper towels and clean/dry/clean/dry
every single spot that you can see and reach that has coolant soaking it.
It takes some time, but it can really help you locate the source of the leak.
I did this with a couple of leaks and it really helped.
Paper towels are cheap.
Take plenty of photos and post them up so the experts here can help you.

Dan

Ducman82

What part of La are you in?

STRIKEMASTER

I just got done doing the WP/TB this past summer, in the driveway of my condo. I picked a holiday weekend so the management would be away and not bug me about it. Took me four 5 hour days--BUT it was my first time and I was very OCD about it. I spent a lot of time going back and forth to my laptop, checking that I was doing. I downloaded info from here and that helped a lot. I also 'only' broke off one water pump bolt, so I spent half of one 'day' borrowing a welder, and removing the broken bolt. My cam gears were shot so I also did cam, oil pump and timing gears. The cam gears were $256 ea. new from Pelican Parts, 928 Intl provided me with a Gates belt, used Oil pump,and timing gears for about $300. A LASO pump was about $900 and I also put in a Porken-Tensioner in for another $450. Figure about $1500>1800 in parts and 12+ hours work. You also need a flywheel lock and a belt tension gauge, about $75. Doable in the driveway over a weekend IF you don't break any bolts... LOL. You just need a place where you can put 'er up in the air for 2 days.

Andre The Giant

I just went through a big leak from a small hose, the one going from the engine to the HCV, it's about 3 inches in length and when I looked under the car from the side it was leaking in the back end of the engine.
Ii was a cheap fix, but what a pain to get to with big hands and arms !
It took me 4-1/2 hours to get it changed and buttoned up. But I always take my time when doing stuff.
Keep in mind, I am no mechanic by any stretch of the imagination, I am very passionate about my car, so I will do what has to be done.

Good luck.

mark kibort

i didnt read this set of posts, but because its comeing from the oil pain area, it might be starting at the water pump area. check for leaks there. if you have a water pump leak, its a timing belt job basicaly and a water pump