When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I'm willing to bet it will take a lot longer than 3 hrs to pull that engine. Maybe if you've done it a few times that sure but no way of this is the first time. It will take an hour just to figure out and drain the coolant.
Once you get the car on jackstands, hit everything and anything you will be removing with penetrating oil, a few times over the next day or so.
Bottom side...
Don't drain any fluids until the majority of your bottom-side work is done. Remove the exhaust crossover and cat assembly, the two bottom bellhousing bolts, inspection cover, torque tube shaft pinch bolt and coupler, clutch assembly, motor mount bolts, starter, ground strap and other electrical wiring. Then once everything is done down there...start draining your fluids (oil and anti-freeze). That way, while they are draining...you can work top-side...and you won't be under there, hopefully, with anti-freeze and other fluids dripping in your face.
Top side...
First, get the hood, air cleaner housing and radiator shroud and radiator out of the way. With the air cleaner off, you can now easily access the rest of the bellhousing bolts. Leave your power steering lines on and just remove the pump from the brackets, less mess. Cut the the two rubber fuel lines, since they are probably crap anyway. Disconnect the 14 pin engine harness connector, it slides forward, if I remember correctly, out of the metal tab that holds it to the inner fender, then separate the two halfs. Remove the coil wire, throttle and cruise control cables. Then get the rest of the cooling hoses off. Since the A/C has already been removed...that helps some, too.
Now, you should be just about ready for a cherry-picker or chain-fall.
Sure, may have missed something...but this should get you close. And it probably sounds like a lot...but it really isn't that bad, in my opinion. Took me about three hours total.
Once you get the car on jackstands, hit everything and anything you will be removing with penetrating oil, a few times over the next day or so.
Bottom side...
Don't drain any fluids until the majority of your bottom-side work is done. Remove the exhaust crossover and cat assembly, the two bottom bellhousing bolts, inspection cover, torque tube shaft pinch bolt and coupler, clutch assembly, motor mount bolts, starter, ground strap and other electrical wiring. Then once everything is done down there...start draining your fluids (oil and anti-freeze). That way, while they are draining...you can work top-side...and you won't be under there, hopefully, with anti-freeze and other fluids dripping in your face.
Top side...
First, get the hood, air cleaner housing and radiator shroud and radiator out of the way. With the air cleaner off, you can now easily access the rest of the bellhousing bolts. Leave your power steering lines on and just remove the pump from the brackets, less mess. Cut the the two rubber fuel lines, since they are probably crap anyway. Disconnect the 14 pin engine harness connector, it slides forward, if I remember correctly, out of the metal tab that holds it to the inner fender, then separate the two halfs. Remove the coil wire, throttle and cruise control cables. Then get the rest of the cooling hoses off. Since the A/C has already been removed...that helps some, too.
Now, you should be just about ready for a cherry-picker or chain-fall.
Sure, may have missed something...but this should get you close. And it probably sounds like a lot...but it really isn't that bad, in my opinion. Took me about three hours total.
This is why you shouldn't read anything too quickly. The last time I looked at the title I read the words rebuilt and scratched my head because I didn't remember buying the car under the condition that the title was rebuilt but I just chalked it up to being the ADD person I am and moved on which is when I decided to part the car out. Well, after pulling the title out again to look at it, it was the mileage that has the rebuilt status from the previous owners engine work that was done and the title is original. Oops... Anyone out there need a clean title and VIN 5 speed chassis for a project car before it goes under the knife? She still rolls for the moment. Hahahaha!
At this point I will gladly consider any offer instead of scraping the chassis. It's near Chicago. The engine and bell housing with the clutch are sold and most of the interior is gone. The 5 speed remains along with the torque tube and shifter and pedal. What exactly are you looking for?
Pretty sure that's still a rebuilt title. The fields for "Type of Title" are Original, Corrected, and Duplicate.
Hmmm... maybe I'm just a complete moron. I think I'm used to the newer Illinois titles. They've reformatted them since 2007 based on the newer titles I've received from the state over the last year or so. My '89 title shows rebuilt up at the top I think. Maybe that's what's got me all confused. Well, if someone wants her, she's selling cheap! Even cheaper than before!!!
Not terrible. Went fairly quickly until we got to trying to separate the bell housing from torque tube. That was a PITA.
see, i told you about 3 hours if you hustle. however, you shouldnt have separated the torque tube from the bell housing.... should have pulled that after the engine was out.
09-16-2015, 11:21 PM
