New2928s4

Hi Everyone,

I just bought a 1988 928 S4, possibly getting myself into something deeper than I hoped, but being a previous 944 owner, I have a little idea of what's ahead. The catch is, the car has been sitting for a decade. It hasn't been turned on. My plan is to restore it, or restore as much as I can before taking it to a pro. I have a list of restoration steps, and a list of questions. ANY ADVICE on either or both is much appreciated.

RESTORATION

1. Replace fuel pump, filter, gas, engine fuel lines, flush fueling system

2. New rotors and brake jobs on all four, flush brae fuild

3. New spark plug, ignition (if needed), distributor caps, clean injectors, starter (if needed), flush engine oil

4. Check cooling system during operation before replacing anything, but first flush cooling, and put in a new thermostat

5. Flush other fluids: transmission, steering.

QUESTIONS:

Should I plan to replace the coolant hoses, because they've been sitting unused for over a decade? Are there other hoses, apart from the ones near the gas tank and the engine fuel lines I should swap immediately?

The timing belt was replaced about 1 year before the car stopped driving, and only has about 1k, but is over 10 years old. Should I replace the timing belt? Should I replace it before I even try to turn the car over?

What have I missed that is essential to fix before I actually start to drive it?

Note: I know there are many forums (I've searched) on what to do and my list is based on that. The questions are really car specific, I.e. Not in bad shape, but sitting dormant for a decade.

outbackgeorgia

FUEL LINES! All of them!

outbackgeorgia

Also heater hoses probably. There is a fitting on the pass side of the block that feeds the heater valve. On mine it was a press/epoxy fit from the factory, it will eventually fall out. Get a used single piece one from 928 International so as not to have to worry, if you have this press fit piece. Not sure when it was changed, others will know. Yes I am redundant on the fuel lines, but it is that important.
The rad hoses, if original are very robust, inspect carefully, if good, should be OK. Also, the little plastic overflow piece on top of the radiator that connects the "overflow" hose to the radiator, drivers side, cheap, I carry a spare. It is really probably just an air bleed, but it is a small and important piece.
Then, RELAY, RELAY, RELAY. Three, EZK, Fuel pump, LH and (XVI, XX XXV respectively). They are all the common "253" (141.951.253) same as horn. (Even the one with the fuse tester which is not worth paying extra) The contacts on these will corrode from lack of use over the years. They are "self cleaning" when used, meaning the contacts are designed to wipe with each use.
Good luck, great approach, hope the rest of the car is in good shape. Need photos.
Dave

safulop

Sitting never started for 10 years?? Oy. I mean, the rubber timing belt has a 6-year life span, per factory spec. I had an S4 in running condition with a timing belt about 18 years old, so they do stand up over time. From my experience it is safe to run the engine for now but you should at least check the condition of the timing belt. The 6-year life span thing kind of assumes that the car runs and gets hot every so often. I would guess that a timing belt just sitting there is not going to age as quickly as one in a running engine.

docmirror

Welcome, congrats. You picked the right car. I've had a 968 and your time in the 944 will give you good prep for this job.

Must do things:
1. fuel lines replaced. All of them. Get the kit from Roger at 928sRUS.
2. Check the crank end play. Plenty of links here to do the job.
3. Inspect the timing belt carefully. Use a high intensity light and remove the right side rotor and belt cover. Be careful of the tension warning wire, and the AC clutch wire. Inspect the tension area with the light, and the inside teeth of the belt for cracks. If there is ANY damage, condemn the belt and do the belt job.
4. All fluids of course.

Put your location below your signature block. Oh, and most important:

THIS -

Imo000

The 6 year life span was invented by this forum.

DeWolf

I done the same about six months ago to an 89 that had been sitting for seven years with 308,000kms on the clock. The first thing I did was pulled the maf and sent it to Kevin at Injection Labs. That gave me time to start working on the other stuff. By the time the MAF was done most of the rest was to. Thanks Roger.
Man that old girl hauled ***. It would just light up the tyres right from the get go.
I also did the belt and water pump. Peace of mind when you're revving the old girl out.

M. Requin

thread...

beran earms

I hope im not over stepping my bounderies, but

" IS "

gearz

WORTHLESS W/O

Bilal928S4

PICTURES!!!!!!
Lots of pictures.
Welcome to the asylum.

FredR

If the timing belt has been sat for 9 years then I would not start he motor until it was changed. The molecules of rubber like to be flexed to keep everything "nice and rubbery". If the belt is static the rubber loses its elasticity and then may possibly crack when worked- not that you can necessarily see those cracks. The 6 year mantra is wise advice on these cars no matter what mileage it has [or has not] done.

You will need to change the fuel lines, all the hoses, ignition leads may be OK- check in the dark! Other items like knock sensors, fuel pressure regulator/dampeners, crank position sensor, Hall trigger, fuel pumps, mass air flow sensor,LH unit are frankly a crap shoot now. You may be lucky- you may not. The one thing that has probably gone will be the hose that holds the in-tank fuel pump to the outlet housing. You will also probably find that the 4 No. gaiters- one at either end of the two half shafts are probably done for as well. Also check the boots on the tie rod ends and the steering rack arms. I dare say the power steering hoses may also feel a bit "soggy". The hoses in and around the inlet manifold may also be a bit dodgy by now.

Finally, probably good to replace the pinch bolt for the rear end of the drive shaft and you need to ensure the front clamp is holding- several ways of doing this.

Rgds

Fred

MFranke

If the brake hoses are original I would replace those. May want to check master cylinder functionality too.

worf928

First you need to tell us if it's a five-speed or auto.
Then, the conditions under which the car has been stored.
Mileage would be good too.
About half of the items you plan to replace I wouldn't have on my list simply due to storage time. It all depends upon their condition which is likely a result of storage conditions.

I would, however, not want to drive far on 10+ year-old tires.

New2928s4

Thank you all for the ADVICE! I will add these items to my running list of things to do. I've checked on some of the items above, and will need new gaiters and at least one coolant hose. So far, I've only been able to jack it up, remove the wheels (and darned wheel locks), swap all the fuses, check what's working electrically, fix the hood latch, and begin on the brakes.

The car has 73,500 miles, is a manual transmission, and has been sitting outside around NY/NJ for at least 4 years (before that it was garaged). When I had it towed, it was like Autumn in summer with all the leaves flying out. This is where my shopvac comes in handy, and you'll see from the brake photos I posted, what I mean.

For the brakes, I've been able to loosen the calipers, but they won't pull off. I've unlatched the retaining spring, and can rotate the axle, but can't seem to pull off the pads. I've tried to push back the disks, but they don't seem to move much. The rotors are so rusted out that there's a 2mm rim of rust along the outer edge of the rotor which doesn't help. In any case, glad to finally have a go at it. I can only devote an hour to two per day, but hopefully I can have it running before winter. And if any one's in the 02139 zipcode area and want to check it out, send me a PM.