DaveSehl

Sometimes the clutch when pushed will go to the floor and not come back up all the way. The clutch still works in the 3 inches or so it does move. I can put my toe under it and pop it back up and it works fine. this has happened top me twice once while starting the car the other right after i started it and was putting it in reverse.

Any suggestions?

Daniel5691

Hi !
I found these threads that might be of some assistance...

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-on-floor.html

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ing-tasks.html

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...utch-gone.html

Following along, wish I could be more help....
Dan

DaveSehl

Thanks for the links. I did a search and did not see them.

These seem like clutch failure. Mine works even when it's near the floor. And if I pull it up with my foot (not hard at all) it works fine.. until the next time. I put about 30 miles on it and it has not done it since.

buzzdwyer

hi,
i had the same issue with my 78 last year. i fixed it by adjusting the spring tension thing at the top of the pedal arm. i believe, i loosened the screw nut and its been working great.

DaveSehl

Thanks Buzzdwyer I will try that.

checkmate1996

If that doesn't work, I would try bleeding the slave cylinder. maybe you have air in there somehow...

RennPartsDirect

My slave cylinder went bad and mine went all the way to the floor on my '82. When I removed the slave cylinder from the bell housing the piston actually fell out of the slave cylinder body...

When you go to bleed the slave cylinder go to Harbor Freight and buy this:
http://www.harborfreight.com/pneumat...der-61912.html

It works perfectly and helps quickly draw the air out of the system. I had to leave mine slave bleeder open over night and let gravity do its thing. I just was unable to get it to fully bleed out. After one night is was good to go.

Also, be careful to properly insert the slave cylinder into the housing so the piston is properly located on the end of the clutch release lever inside the housing (#7). There is an access hole there that should have a rubber cap that can be removed for you to see what is going on inside (#16)...



Good luck.

Fogey1

My '83 does the same, Dave, so I'm subscribed. Thanks.

That said, please FIX THE SPELLING OF "CUTCH" IN THE TITLE so this thread can be found when somebody searches. And thanks again.

P.S. You can do it by clicking on the "pad & pencil" icon you'll find at the bottom of your original post, I think.

OTR18WHEELER

you are losing hydrolic pressure, the clutch slave and brake master use the same fluid/system.
the reason you are able to shift is that you are actually 'floating' the gear shift.
I suspect that the clutch slave cylinder is bad.
I know a 928 manual and a 10 speed semi are different fish, but I mostly use the clutch for take off and high rev down shifts (like 65 mph in 10th to 8th to 5th for a quick decal into a 35 mph off ramp)
you are actually floating the gears, if your brakes are good, it's the slave.

kawi825

In case you haven't fixed this issue yet, also try "burping" the master cylinder. This is pretty easy and done from inside the footwell. Do a search on it. I did this and also manually compressed the space with my fingers and that did it for me.

upstate bob

The little rubber cups inside the cylinder (either master or slave but more likely master) lose their resiliency and will sometimes seal ok, sometimes not. Best fix is a new cylinder. worked for me. The over-center mechanism at the top of the pedal return is a touchy adjustment to get the stop right but when you do, all is well.

LT Texan

My clutch went to the floor a few years ago. Replacing the line from the master to the slave fixed me up.

DaveSehl

Thanks for all the help, I changed the title of the thread.

I did find out that the clutch master cylinder was replaced in 2001 ish. I will try burping the line but thinking I have bigger problems then that. I think it needs an entire clutch. I was told when the car was taken off the carrier in Ct the person drove the car full of crap from a move up a huge hill only using 3rd gear. this person told my dad that he thought a Porsche should have more power then it did, and smoked and smelled bad.

Fast forward to today, It drives fine in forward and reverse no problem. but if i beat on it a bit and get going in first and put it to the floor and shift into 2nd and pop the clutch, the clutch slips. instead of wasting my time burping etc should I just send it out to have the clutch rebuilt? I would try it on my own but this is something I have never done on any car.

Wisconsin Joe

Well, the clutch being "toast" wouldn't affect the pedal much.

If it's slipping, and the pedal is dropping to the floor, then you probably have 2 separate problems.

R&R of the clutch on these cars is amazingly simple. You may have to loosen up the exhaust to get at the bellhousing, then pull the clutch slave, loosen up the starter, drop the BH, 2 bolts for the TOB sleeve, shim the rivets on the intermediate plate, 6 bolts on the pressure plate, pull the short shaft back and it will fall on your head.

Lots of threads about it. WSM procedure is well written too.

Randy V

Talk about coming through in the 'clutch'!