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Having a bit of a problem here. It seems I need to remove the fuel line. I can't see how to manover it out without removing the fuel line. Anyway I had a crack at removing it and the 17 mm nut is starting to round off. Anyone recommend a tool ar something that will help here.
Also I have noticed a large hole in one of the breather tubes buried under the manifold. I'm guessing it has been like this for a while. Any idea what the impact of running like this is. Looks like this could be the source of the evaaporating oil
The hole in the breather hose means unmetered air bypassing the MAF, so your idle may be high, and/or the car's going to run lean if the leak is larger than the LH can adjust for. May also explain the oil mist all over everything in the valley under the intake, if there is one.
RE: the fuel fitting, I had a really stuck one recently and the savior was a crow's foot flare wrench on an impact wrench. Rattled it loose expediently. Required wayyyy more force than should have been necessary- when you reinstall, put a little bit of silver anti seize on the male threads (only) of the fuel fitting.
Thanks for the tip Rob. Ordered a set of these crow foot drives. Hopefully they'll arrive today or tomorrow.
Yes there is oil under the intake. Idle seems fin most of the time. I had thought it was a little low but theos diag indicated it was ok. What I do get is occasionally after a hot start then I get an erratic idle which can lead to stalling. Wonder if this is the culprit? On first look I thought I may need to move the intake to change this hos but was looking at some pictures on Dwaynes intake refresh writeup and think I may be able to swap it out with the intake in place. Think the other end attaches at the oil filler so may be able to feed a new one back through.
If I can get this fuel line off I think I'm in business
The hose with the hole in it is a bit of a giveaway that it is probably time to remove the inlet manifold.
From your description it would seem the hose with the hole in it is the breather hose that runs from the boot to the base of the filler neck. These hoses eventually go a bit soggy and fail. If it is this hose that has failed then to fix it the inlet manifold has to come off or at the very least lifted to the point where access can be gained and at that point you may as well take the job lot off. The most difficult part of the job is getting the ISV connector off. Nowadays I just leave the spring clip off the connector knowing that if it comes undone it can be slipped back on again- has not happened to date. One of these days i will install a cable extension connector so it can be undone outside the manifold.
Sounds as though you have never done this previously and unfortunately it is one of those jobs that has to be done eventually. I think you can safely say this job needs to be done at least once every 10 years to refresh these hoses and all the other items like the knock sensors that eventually fail and/or fall to pieces.
The idle switch full throttle contact is a regular fail item- you can check whether this is working very easily. Same with the idle contact and the ISV may need cleaning [if the shuttle is sticking as may well be happening in your case] or need replacing. there are also several hoses down there for the breather system, the ISV and the brake servo system that need to be replaced sooner or later. Do you know your knock sensors are working correctly [i.e. have you had the spanner on the car to diagnose what is working and what may not be?].
On the other hand you may be fortunate and have a single component that has failed but experience suggests this is unlikely to be the case.
Hi Fred, I think you are right that a intake refresh should be on the cards. Timing is bad right now though. I want to use the car during the remainder of the summer an also I may be moving house soon.
I've had my car scanned recently with a hammer and discovered the hall sender issue. The hammer wouldn't connect to one of the LH though so potentially other issues . I've bought theos diag tool but only had about 30 mins playing with it. Again couldn't connect to the LH although reading the manual it suggest that there can be difficulty here so need to try this again when I get it running.
I'm just waiting for some tools to arrive then I'll take another look at this hose and see if possible or not. I may just have to live with it until winter when hopefully I'll be in a position to tackle it properly
Hi Fred, I think you are right that a intake refresh should be on the cards. Timing is bad right now though. I want to use the car during the remainder of the summer an also I may be moving house soon.
I've had my car scanned recently with a hammer and discovered the hall sender issue. The hammer wouldn't connect to one of the LH though so potentially other issues . I've bought theos diag tool but only had about 30 mins playing with it. Again couldn't connect to the LH although reading the manual it suggest that there can be difficulty here so need to try this again when I get it running.
I'm just waiting for some tools to arrive then I'll take another look at this hose and see if possible or not. I may just have to live with it until winter when hopefully I'll be in a position to tackle it properly
Mike,
Try doing it in 45C heat like I did a couple of weeks ago! I use ST2 and that shows most of the needed diagnostic indications. Not sure any diagnostic tool is useful if it cannot communicate with the LH unit.
I can remove the manifold in little over an hour these days- putting it back takes a bit longer depending on how easily the fuel rail goes back over the injectors/engaging the clips positively. Changing over the bits and pieces in the valley takes no time. Of course the first time you do this it will inevitably take longer- doubtless something will not go as planned. Just refer something like Dwayne's write ups and take your time when you do.
Just had another look and there is no way to get the hose without taking the intake off. I best get planning a refresh.
Re the LH thing, I'm not sure the issue is with the tool as the factory Hammer and the UDT999 both don't seem to be able to read it. Suggest a problem with my LH. I need to have another look with the UDT999 as I only got 30 mins or so to play with it. The manual did say something about limited memory or something causing connection issues. Need to try again.
Ok crow's foot flare arrived. I was hopeful but still no joy. Apply any real pressure and it twists and slides off as it can't grip to the rounded bolt.
Ok crow's foot flare arrived. I was hopeful but still no joy. Apply any real pressure and it twists and slides off as it can't grip to the rounded bolt.
Any ideas what to try next?
A small Stilson wrench? Not sure if you can get one in there - that or a good mole wrench might grip it sufficiently while you turn the other half.
So if I use a stilson or mole wrench am I not likely to destroy this bolt? Then I wonder where that leaves me when it comes to putting things back again.
The pipe has a section of rubber hose. Could this be disconnect and replaced in situ?
So if I use a stilson or mole wrench am I not likely to destroy this bolt? Then I wonder where that leaves me when it comes to putting things back again.
The pipe has a section of rubber hose. Could this be disconnect and replaced in situ?
Mike,
My take on this is the hex is already toast so not sure how or why you would be too worried about damaging it- the mission at the moment is to get it undone surely? The stilson [or the mole wrench] will not seriously damage it if they grip correctly but they may well put some bite marks on the flats.
This will be a good opportunity to r/r this piece if the hose has gone. Given what you have described to date it is probably a fair bet the fuel hoses are "carbonised" by now with little to no flexibility left in them. If they had been maintained recently then logically you would have had no problem getting them undone. I did mine a couple of years ago with Roger's "budget kit" - not sure if he still does this as he was a bit concerned about the possibility of failure. General consensus is the best way to do it is Greg Brown's kit but there are other options.
"My take on this is the hex is already toast so not sure how or why you would be too worried about damaging it-"
The damaged hex is attached to the fuel pipe that goes under the car. I need to jack the car up and have a look but does that pipe not travel all the way down the length of the car over the rear suspension etc? I really don't want to replace that right now.
I would have no problem about replacing the fuel line that goes over the cam cover (with the rubber hose) if I knew I could get it reattach it to the long line.
The damaged hex is attached to the fuel pipe that goes under the car. I need to jack the car up and have a look but does that pipe not travel all the way down the length of the car over the rear suspension etc? I really don't want to replace that right now.
I would have no problem about replacing the fuel line that goes over the cam cover (with the rubber hose) if I knew I could get it reattach it to the long line.
Mike,
I fully understand what you are saying but at the moment your immediate problem is getting the fuel line out of the way so you can replace the Hall sensor or so I understand. If you want to you can box things up as they are and drive around with 6 degrees of ignition retard- it would drive me up the wall just knowing that.
The fuel union has already been damaged so my logic would be it is no issue if you put a few additional scratches on the already mechanically damaged union. If you can get it undone then logically you can then re-tighten it the same way or effect an appropriate repair on the damaged component- pain that it may be.
Unfortunately fuel unions have a tendency to gall- you could try some penetrating fluid to help the joint crack open.
06-14-2015, 07:09 PM
